IAT=WTF, BS, POS
I have a 92 cx with b8/z6 mini me, wired for vtec but i need the p28, running b8 ecu.
Alright, i thought i fixed the problem with high idle, caused by my IAT, code 10, by replacing it with a brand new oem honda sensor. I still had the CEL when i first plugged in the new one, but i have since cleaned out the IACV, and ADJUSTED the FITV. A few miles after i did these things, my CEL turned off and my idle seemed to settle at about 900rpm for about 2 weeks.
It came back on when i was driving on the freeway, and immediately my idle went back to around 1500rpm. I have no vac leaks, everything i straight in that department.
Yesterday, I adjusted the screw on the top of my TB, just below the MAP sensor and above the butterfly valve. I shut off the car and unplugged the IACV and the idle is now at 1000rpm, so it worked, but my CEL code 10 is still showing.
I dont know what to do.
Alright, i thought i fixed the problem with high idle, caused by my IAT, code 10, by replacing it with a brand new oem honda sensor. I still had the CEL when i first plugged in the new one, but i have since cleaned out the IACV, and ADJUSTED the FITV. A few miles after i did these things, my CEL turned off and my idle seemed to settle at about 900rpm for about 2 weeks.
It came back on when i was driving on the freeway, and immediately my idle went back to around 1500rpm. I have no vac leaks, everything i straight in that department.
Yesterday, I adjusted the screw on the top of my TB, just below the MAP sensor and above the butterfly valve. I shut off the car and unplugged the IACV and the idle is now at 1000rpm, so it worked, but my CEL code 10 is still showing.
I dont know what to do.
Last edited by 4g4dcruisin; Mar 17, 2010 at 08:29 AM.
maybe something to do with running an obd2 ecu in an obd1 vehicle? what adapter harness are you using?
also are you sure the plugs for the iat and iacv or evap arent swapped? what color wiring are running to each?
also are you sure the plugs for the iat and iacv or evap arent swapped? what color wiring are running to each?
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IM RUNNING STOCK CX BLOCK WITH STOCK CX ECU.
Everything is OBD1
Wires going to IACV are grn/wht, red/ylw
Wires going to IAT are i believe blk, ylw/red
The correct wires are being ran to the correct places. The IACV is working, remember i only have code 10.
EVAP - ylw/blk & red
IAT - grn/wht & red/ylw
IACV - ylw/blk & blue/ylw
also you can follow this diagram to make sure the iat sensor is functioning properly and look for broken wires
Alright, well i have a problem. I ONLY HAVE 3 PLUGS at the harness on the back of the IM.
MAP
IACV
IAT
Here is some trouble shooting from my shop manual. I dont seem to have one of the sets of wires!
MAP
IACV
IAT
Here is some trouble shooting from my shop manual. I dont seem to have one of the sets of wires!
I do NOT have a purge cut solenoid. I've knows that, but like i said, I am missing some one of the plugs then. Here is a pic of the crappy wiring when i got the car, IN THIS PIC, THE WIRES ARE WRONG.
But these are the only two connectors i have back there besides the MAP, which is 3 wires.
But these are the only two connectors i have back there besides the MAP, which is 3 wires.
I DO have the red/ylw, grn/wht going to the IAT.
As far as the IACV, i dont know, because the wires in my pic dont look to have blue in them.
But, i mean, the IACV is obviously working! When i disconnect the plug, the idle goes crazy. If it wasnt hooked up with the right connector, wouldnt i get a CEL and have the stange idle?
I believe the IAT is working propery due to the CEL only coming on sparatically, it was off for like 2 weeks!
As far as the IACV, i dont know, because the wires in my pic dont look to have blue in them.
But, i mean, the IACV is obviously working! When i disconnect the plug, the idle goes crazy. If it wasnt hooked up with the right connector, wouldnt i get a CEL and have the stange idle?
I believe the IAT is working propery due to the CEL only coming on sparatically, it was off for like 2 weeks!
grab a multimeter and check for continuity at the ecu so you know for sure what wires are going where.
the wires at the iat plug are the right colors but what are they spliced into? looks kinda like a mess to me.
also you can test the iacv by unplugging it. the idle should drop to about 400rpm. if there is no change then that would indicate the iacv not working properly.
the wires at the iat plug are the right colors but what are they spliced into? looks kinda like a mess to me.
also you can test the iacv by unplugging it. the idle should drop to about 400rpm. if there is no change then that would indicate the iacv not working properly.
grab a multimeter and check for continuity at the ecu so you know for sure what wires are going where.
the wires at the iat plug are the right colors but what are they spliced into? looks kinda like a mess to me.
also you can test the iacv by unplugging it. the idle should drop to about 400rpm. if there is no change then that would indicate the iacv not working properly.
the wires at the iat plug are the right colors but what are they spliced into? looks kinda like a mess to me.
also you can test the iacv by unplugging it. the idle should drop to about 400rpm. if there is no change then that would indicate the iacv not working properly.
As for the IACV, i've done that, and yes, the idle goes crazy when i take the plug out.
the red wires are spliced into a yellow and black wire though. that doesnt make sense. also seems weird that the previous owner had iat problems and so do you. guaranteed this is a wiring problem. break out the multimeter
I have since re wired the IACV and IAT to their appropriate wires. So disregard where the IAT goes in that pic. I was just using it for reference.
He could have had the IAT wired wrong the entire time he had the car, and thought the IAT was messing up...but who knows. What i NEED, is an engine harness from an SI/EX. The good thing about the 92's are that they were pre-wired for vtec from the shock tower to the cabin harness to the ecu.
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wakaranai
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Mar 23, 2010 12:41 PM




