I've posted this in another forum but trying to get other ideas as well.

Got the LS-VTEC together.

Tried starting engine, firing order was off, corrected that and it started fine.

Drove down the street, started part throttle/part RPM a few times, then opened it up.

Got to the end of the road, turned around and started coming back, noticed the temp was about 3/4 of the way up, halfway between "normal" and "hot." Turned the car off. Wouldn't start back up, but that was due to a ground problem.

Jumped it, drove it home, was dark and late at night, parked it and went home.

This morning went back to it, went to put in fresh oil. Noticed on the back of the block there was oil everywhere. Assumed it was maybe the oil filter hadn't sealed completely, however when I took it off it was very tight so I doubt this is the problem.. Drained the oil, and only got a quart back. Changed filter and put fresh oil in.

Started the car with the radiator cap off as I assumed there was still air in the cooling system and was going to bleed it out. Within 10 seconds, the radiator started overflowing. It seemed like it was overflowing straight oil.

The little bit of headgasket that was sticking out the cam side seemed to have a little bit of oil seeping out.

At this point, I was assuming the headgasket was bad, which is strange since it's a brand new cometic headgasket between a resurfaced head and block, torqued down to 85lbs with ARP head studs (that's what their info sheet said).

Started taking the head off and there was also coolant in the head.

Got the head off, the headgasket seemed covered in oil/coolant, which may have been from removing the head but it seemed like a little too much for it to just be from that.

The block had a small crack in the outer cylinder wall, which may have been there before but I don't remember seeing it, and think the shop would have mentioned it.

Any ideas what happened and/or what is wrong?


"Burn" marks seem fine? Don't see anything that looks weird in the cylinders.


The crack in cylinder 3. You can see the imprint all around the block/head from the headgasket, so I'm assuming it sealed just fine, however I have no idea why coolant/oil are mixing.

At this point, I'm completely broke and still not working due to not having transportation. Possible to reuse the block? Possible to cheaply fix the block so it lasts at least a few months? Possible for anyone to sell me a cheap, good, bare LS block?

 

Well that crack explains the mixture your getting, a crack is a crack and its not going to hold. Easy fix maybe a new block?

 

And for your entertainment - here's a video of my first time driving it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViUjUkELki4

It's loud as hell because it's open header since the header didn't reach the exhaust, will take it to an exhaust shop when it's running again.

Also, I swear it's not my first time driving 5-speed, although I literally haven't drove one in over half a year. It's a stage 4 Competition Clutch, compared to my old, tired OEM one, and it's a hydro conversion. Also, I was so anxious to drive, and it was dark, so I skipped bolting my seat down. When I'd let off the clutch and it "caught," the seat would rock back, then when it rocked back forward I'd disengage it again...took a few tries to get used to

 

The crack is only through the outer cylinder, the inner one is fine. Also, oil doesn't get up to the top of the cylinder to mix with the coolant, and coolant at the top of the cylinder can't possibly get mixed in with the oil. Last, it wouldn't explain the oil covering the back of the block.

I appreciate the comment, and am all ears to others, just don't believe the crack on the outer cylinder wall is what caused 3 quarts of oil to disappear in 10-15 minutes

I got the head off today and tomorrow will start doing some investigative work to try and find the problem, but until then I'd like some suggestions :D

 

ya definitely get a new block

 

my friend was losing a lot of oil on his lsv because the sandwich plate had a tap for the head and one for if you wanted a turbo and the one not being used was open and got oild everywhere

 

Already plan to and found one locally for $20.

But, what could be the reason for oil/coolant mixing and 3 quarts of oil being spit out?

 

The other lines on the sandwich adapter are open.

C'mon H-T, bring the tech :D

 

kinda reminds me of my ls-v, had it for about 300 miles befor the wristpin shot out and messed up m sleeve... sucked cause i had all my money dumped into it too, it was runnin so quick then started pourin out smoke...

 

You overtorqued the snot out of those ARP studs. Unless they are the 1/2" variant (probably not, as the block would have to be drilled / tapped) they should only be at 60 ft-lbs or so.

The crack isn't good either.

 

Well, the heads are half-inch.

The half-size information sheet that came with them specified ~70ft-lbs without the ARP lube, and 85ft-lbs with the lube.

If I can find it in the mess of the garage I'll scan it...

 

The crack is definitely an issue. You need to pull the oil pan off and check the bottom of the block where the sleeve ends.

From the sounds of it, who ever built it did not have enough experience or knowledge of what they were doing.

OEM Honda LS Head Gasket and ITR head studs will do just fine (or GSR if you have a gsr head). Did you torque the head studs in the 3 steps or 2 steps (in some cases) that they were supposed to be torqued to?

 

The crack is only at the very top and not very deep. The bottom end was assembled by the longest running, most respected machine shop in the city.

Torqued the head studs as directed by the ARP sheet, which I think was two steps but I'll try to find the paper.