I'm looking to install the Alpine MRP-F250 into my 95 Integra GSR. I read the sticky about the big 3 and had a few questions.

I've picked out the XScorpion battery terminals (exactly like the ones in the sticky). I was thinking about buying the RFK4X 4AWG Amp Install Kit. It looks like it comes with everything I need. I guess the RFK4I doesn't include the remote wire.

So..for the questions...

I see that the big 3 (from the sticky) are:
Battery Negative to Chassis
Battery Negative to Tranny
Battery Positive to Starter
Battery Positive to Fuse Box

None of these require an inline fuse right ... because one of them go to the fuse box?

I saw someone mention connecting the Alternator to the Positive battery terminal. Is that necessary and would I need an inline fuse for that?

I read something about charging a capacitor...what is that exactly?

Is there a place where I can buy just high quality red 4 awg wires? It seems as the major brands (Rockford, Tsunami, Stinger, Streetwires, etc) sell either the kits or huge 100 foot spools. I wasn't sure where to look as eBay and Google aren't showing me what I'm looking for.

 

That's the big 4 you mention there not the big 3. The only wire you would fuse's the positive wire to the alternator. Would be ezy to do from

- battery to chassis
+ battery to alternator with (fuse) Near the battery.
chassis wire to engine block..

Don't need a charging cap, it only good when the system need more power, but i wouldn't suggest putting that in. Those brands audio you mention there are expensive but good.. You can go for Knuconcept if you're on budget. It come with everything for you complete installation. If you want spool wiring you can go on ebay. YOu can check out carstereo.com too..

 

I highly recommend Kunconceptz wiring. It's good stuff and cheap

 

Great stuff!

What size fuse should I use for the Alternator to the Battery? 120ish? When doing these big upgrades, is it worth it to use the 1/0AWG or is the 4AWG more then enough?

Other then the connections mentioned here, are there any other ground that could prove beneficial? Such as grounding the Throttle Body / Intake Manifold and such?

Also, is there anything special about the remote wire? It seems like it's just something to turn the amp on or off..so would any wire be sufficient for this?

I'm liking these KnuKonceptz stuff. I'm most likely going to be buying everything I need from them.

 

It depend what the size wire you're using. The fuse's there to protect the wire from a fire hazard. If you using 1/0 gauge then 300 amp fuse will be good enough. I wouldn't use any wire smaller than 0 guage. I would try to use an existing bolt from the engine block, as long it's safe to remove and to add on. I think there wire wire close to the starter that have a wire to chassis to the engine block.

I'm not too certain because not sure what car you have. Yes you need the remote wire to turn the amp on otherwise it isn't going to come on. I have seen peoples use 18 to 16 gauge wire for the remote wire. I would use 18 gauge. That seem to be good enough. I think Knu wiring kits come with the remote wire.

 

As far as using an existing bolt on the engine, that is fine, but make sure you find the torque specs for the bolt, and tighten it back down exactly to spec. Having one bolt too tight or not tight enough on your engine is asking for problems down the road, considering how often your engine heats up and cools

 

The Alpine MRP-F250 is a 4x40W RMS into 4 ohms amp, the only upgrade you need to do is the batt. neg.(-) to chassis, an 8ga will do.

There is no advantage to adding any other "upgrade" leads/cables.

Use 8ga power and ground for the amp, as long as power cable will be 12' or less in length, keep ground cable as short as possible and ground to cars floor pan, [seat and seat belt bolts, [or any bolt/stud that goes into floor pan] work the best, remove dirt/paint to bare metal for the ground.

Use a 100A ANL fuse for the amps power lead, if using 8ga.
Use a post style fuse holder.

All terminals should be soldered to power/ground cables.

Only install a cap if needed, it is best to charge a cap slowly, [through resistance] easiest way is to use a 12V light bulb, [like a dome light], once everything is connected, [except fuse in amps power lead] install 12v light bulb in series at the fuse holder, the bulb will light up and slowly dim out, when out, the cap is charged, remove bulb and install fuse. 94

 

i'd do the big 3 and wire everything up with 4 just to get it out the way

if u ever decide to upgrade, u wont have to rewire the car up