H22A1 NA Fully built tuning/ecu isues
So I fully built an H22 for my 95 Accord and besides going the H2B Tranny route, I've done everything I possibly can besides boost (though I do have a ZEX kit on it) mainly for show of the purge kit.
However, I bought a (Skunk2) chipped p28 ecu due to the fact that I'm running S2 everything top end (Valves, springs, retainers, Pro Stage 2 cams w adjustable gears, and the Pro Series S2 Intake Manifold w a Pro Series 70mm throttle body) and beside my Greddy 4 to 1 header I have a full Skunk2 Exhaust as well. I've done everything w the bottom end and a full AEM fuel system, I've put excellent plugs and wires and cap and rotor. Had 12.3:1 compression on all cylinders...etc
The problem is that this thing runs like a pile usually! At low rpms (2500 or below) It idles rough (a bit cause of the cam lobes) but pretty much spits out raw fuel from my exhaust. And at higher rpms (6k+) It just stops pulling quite as hard, still wraps out fine but not the gains I had expected from a solid build like that w top of the line everything installed. My buddy's 98 civic si keeps up w me neck and neck and all he has are cai, and exhaust. I dont get it!!! I should smoke his little 1.6 w nothing modded.
Anyways, my old buddy at the shop says $300 for a custom tune w multiple dyno runs and a soldered custum burned hondata chip says that it will run lik a million but my other buddy (who tunes his own fully built 92 GSR and an E36M3) says I should go w this ecu i have plug chipped the v/afc con. back and go by my exh temp guage and wide band air/fuel gages.
Anybody been here before? What did you/ should you have done? What were your results? Thanks
However, I bought a (Skunk2) chipped p28 ecu due to the fact that I'm running S2 everything top end (Valves, springs, retainers, Pro Stage 2 cams w adjustable gears, and the Pro Series S2 Intake Manifold w a Pro Series 70mm throttle body) and beside my Greddy 4 to 1 header I have a full Skunk2 Exhaust as well. I've done everything w the bottom end and a full AEM fuel system, I've put excellent plugs and wires and cap and rotor. Had 12.3:1 compression on all cylinders...etc
The problem is that this thing runs like a pile usually! At low rpms (2500 or below) It idles rough (a bit cause of the cam lobes) but pretty much spits out raw fuel from my exhaust. And at higher rpms (6k+) It just stops pulling quite as hard, still wraps out fine but not the gains I had expected from a solid build like that w top of the line everything installed. My buddy's 98 civic si keeps up w me neck and neck and all he has are cai, and exhaust. I dont get it!!! I should smoke his little 1.6 w nothing modded.
Anyways, my old buddy at the shop says $300 for a custom tune w multiple dyno runs and a soldered custum burned hondata chip says that it will run lik a million but my other buddy (who tunes his own fully built 92 GSR and an E36M3) says I should go w this ecu i have plug chipped the v/afc con. back and go by my exh temp guage and wide band air/fuel gages.
Anybody been here before? What did you/ should you have done? What were your results? Thanks
Dyno tune with a good program such as hondata, neptune, ectune, crome etc ...
Vafc only hack the signal of the ecu to trick some fuel ajustment, it's not a real tuned ecu AND you can't play with ignition timing wich would be important with those cams if you want to make some power.
Vafc only hack the signal of the ecu to trick some fuel ajustment, it's not a real tuned ecu AND you can't play with ignition timing wich would be important with those cams if you want to make some power.
I tuned a Pro-2 H22, similar build to you, on eCtune in September. Starts, idles, drives like a stock car. Power is good too 
Find a good tuner that you trust, and you will be happy.
There is no 'chip' that will run your engine well. Only a tune will get you there.

Find a good tuner that you trust, and you will be happy.
There is no 'chip' that will run your engine well. Only a tune will get you there.
AFC is crap. Waste of time and money.
I guess I wasn't very clear.
IF YOU WANT YOUR SETUP TO START, IDLE, AND DRIVE LIKE A STOCK CAR, YOU NEED A CUSTOM TUNE NOT A CHIP OR AN AFC
I guess I wasn't very clear.
IF YOU WANT YOUR SETUP TO START, IDLE, AND DRIVE LIKE A STOCK CAR, YOU NEED A CUSTOM TUNE NOT A CHIP OR AN AFC
[QUOTE=92TypeR;41805268]AFC is crap. Waste of time and money.
I guess I wasn't very clear.
IF YOU WANT YOUR SETUP TO START, IDLE, AND DRIVE LIKE A STOCK CAR, YOU NEED A CUSTOM TUNE NOT A CHIP OR AN AFC[/QUOTE
X2
u might wanna be alil more clear with what ur saying bc u might confuse him with u need a tune not a chip. bc neptue an crome all use chips. an they would both work fine. but ur not gonna buy a chip from someone an exspect it to run great with out them there to tune ur car.an im pretty sure thats what 92 type r is geting at
I guess I wasn't very clear.
IF YOU WANT YOUR SETUP TO START, IDLE, AND DRIVE LIKE A STOCK CAR, YOU NEED A CUSTOM TUNE NOT A CHIP OR AN AFC[/QUOTE
X2
u might wanna be alil more clear with what ur saying bc u might confuse him with u need a tune not a chip. bc neptue an crome all use chips. an they would both work fine. but ur not gonna buy a chip from someone an exspect it to run great with out them there to tune ur car.an im pretty sure thats what 92 type r is geting at
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From: land of the sheep, home of the hypocrite
Most of those generic "chip" programs are not very good, especially if you get them from eghey or similar. You are going to be better off with a program tuned for your specific setup. If no one is local, you may be able to work with a tuner or ROM supplier to get a better base map sent out, but that could take some trial an error. Check out pgmfi.org
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