I'm considering getting a short shifter for the R, but am not sure if I should. The problem comes from me having bought a B&M unit for my EM1 Si. I loved how it felt and the throws, but the fing thing rattled like a bitch (it was vibrating against something under the car). I hear this is a very common issue. Is there a quality unit which won't do this for our cars?

 

Your stock shifter is already short. Back when I had an EM1 I used a short shifter but I havent found the need with the R. Do you not like your stock shifter?

 

i would just stick with the stock one. it really has a solid shifting feeling from the factory. if you disagree maybe you should consider some shifter bushings for a more solid feel. either way, good luck with your decision!

 

I have the B&M in my ITR and your right, it rattles like a ****! I'm considering taking it out unless someone has a fix?

 

+1

 

It feels okay except when shifting from 1st to 2nd (sometimes). I just prefer shorter throws as with the S2000. I was planning on getting some ES shifter bushings anyway, so maybe Ill try those alone first.

 

I had a C's(single bend) but switched to the skunk2(dual bend) w/es bushings and I love it. All my buddies tell me to put the stock shifter back in tho since it is great.

 

Why did you switch from the C's, I hear they are one of the best?

 

I did not like the position of the single bend. It was just the normal shifter not the adjustable one that everyone raves about.

 

Skunk2 with ES bushings. No rattling.

 

stock shifter is very good! Installed a C's, did not like!

 

Fastline Shifter

 

+1

 

Short shifters are one of those products that everyone thinks is cool and adds performance, but in the general scheme of things--they are virtually worthless.

Most of them change the shifting geometry, which is not necessarily a good thing.

If you are looking for a "shorter throw", then consider purchasing a shift **** that sits down further on your OEM shifter. That's what I did with my R and that does indeed make a difference, all while maintaining OEM geometry.

 

The first mod I did to my R in 97 was a Neuspeed Short Shifter. I have been very happy with it.

-Victor

 

Todd00 is correct. You may be doing more harm than good. Quicker worn out bearings and bent shift forks are a potential hazzard with some aftermarket short shifters.

I had a cheapo Skunk2 style way back in the day and it ended up grinding and rattling as others have mentioned. I also had a Fastline RR shifter but got sick of the sloppy feeling while in neutrel so I went back to stock. I couldn't be happier. After going through 2 different styles of aftermarket shifters and using both in an HPDE setting I can safely say that stock is where it's at. Throw some shifter bushings in there and call it a day.

My $0.02

 

I've used neuspeed shifter and their bushings as well in an old gsr and itr, great products. I'm trying to source some for my ek, but I guess theyre not available anymore.

 

Installed a cheap dual bend years ago from Checkpoint Auto Accessories along with ES bushings and never looked back.
As far as the bent forks are concerned I know several drivers that have done that with stock shifters because they're trying to shift like they're in one of the F&F movies.

 

Yes this is all generally true.

The Fastline shifter gets lumped in the "short shifter" category, which is ironic, if you ask me. This part had an unbelievable amount of development done on it to get the shape it got. Seems like it would be an easy part to make and slap on ebay. Funny tho, nobody has ever tried to copy or emulate the FLP shifter.


The point on ***** is great as well, which is why we promote the Maven ****. It does mount somewhat lower than stock by deleting the nut at the base, and most of the mass is high to promote the pendulum effect of the weighted ****. Still, the issues associated with lowering the **** only serve to increase the reach of the shift ****. Someone the other day commented that "if you need to see the **** to shift you shouldn't be driving." In a heated driving experience we all know how easy it is to miss grabbing the **** and result in a missed shift. And that can cause damage or lost time.


Marcus

 

C's Shifter, the only one I ever would buy again (if you could)

 

In terms of the OEM geometry and changing the geometry, people say the FLP shifter keeps the stock throw but has the **** closer to the steering wheel.

However to keep stock throw with a shifter that long, you would have to lengthen the lower portion of the shifter below the pivot point. In this case, wouldn't it put some fault to having the FLP?

I hated going from the JDM ITR **** to the Skunk 2 weight wise, as the shape is pretty much identical. It made it feel like there was more play in the shifter. Keep in mind I had the stock shifter and bushings.

 

The FLP shifter is longer under the car to compensate for the long length. The through is not advertised to be shorter but I actually measured it to be shorter than stock in testing.

I don't necessarily see the "fault" in changing the lengths. The point is to keep the input/output lever in proper proportion. That is where the math comes in. Getting the ratio correct is what makes a difference in feel, throw, and integrity.

If your shifter feels like it has play that is for sure going to be helped with some prothane bushings.

 

What was that shifter that had numerous adjustments? I want to say I heard it called a "roboshifter" although I know that wasn't the name.

 

C's Driving Position Shifter = roboshifter

 

Don't thhink C's makes that anymore . Always wanted to try one.