So, I want to see if you guys can help me decipher whats wrong with my car, I have a few opinions but would like to see what the community says.

Ive got a 92 Civic Vx with a modded B18C1
The important mods to the engine are as follow
-I/H/E
-JDM ITR Pistons
-ITR Cams
-Titanium retainers
-ITR Dual Valvesprings
-Exedy 11lb fly.
-Head Milled .007"
-Skunk2 Valves (standard comp)
-ARP Head Studs
-Toda Cam Gears (0,+2)
-Stock Headgasket (I think this is important to mention)
-Semi-tuned P72 (Tuned for a bit lower compression and gsr cams)

I installed the new valves, valvestem seals, head studs, cams, and cam gears, along with everything else that comes with assembling a cylinder head, myself. Got a valvejob at DNR Performance, and installed a new OEM head gasket. I torqued everything down to specs, double and triple checked it.

Here's the problem, sometimes I blow a ton of white smoke out the exhaust (more noticeable when it's cold out), the idle is sometimes normal, and other times it's low and rough. Then when I listen carefully to the exhaust I can hear knocking coming in the form of disturbed exhaust flow (little puffs and pops of exhaust) but the MOST DISTURBING problem is, when I start the car in the morning, it doesnt want to start without the throttle being partially open, and when it finally does start, it pings and knocks and makes all kinds of nasty noises until its warm, then its still audible slightly through the exhaust as I mentioned a second ago.

Things I know: Idle air control valve gasket is missing, I need to replace that asap. Im running about 11.8:1 Compression according to zealautowerks.com
B18C1
JDM ITR Pistons
Head Milled .007
= 11.8

I had rebuilt the head no more than 500 miles ago!
The head was milled by previous owner, >30,000 miles ago.

My Idea:
A) Either the head gasket has gone bad (blown) already causing: white smoke/bad idle
B) Head has warped causing: white smoke/bad idle
C) Tune is crap causing: knocking/bad idle
D) IACV Gasket is the cause of idle problem
E) All the above

Im sure there are a ton of questions so please ask away and I'll tell you everything you need to know short of my credit card numbers and social security number.. SO ASK!

 

You need to get tuned. "Semi-tuned" ECU is worthless if the setup is different.

Set your cam gears back to 0,0, hook up a wideband, and see where you're at.

 

Yeah, thats what I was thinking, I know for sure its super rich judging from the condition of my new spark plugs, 500 miles in, and theyre black as night. I got it tuned at DNR performance btw.. IMHO I dont like them very much. Im going to blacktrax in milpitas, ca. I hear nothing but good things from them, theyre a little pricier, but you get what you pay for right? So I'd rather pay more for better quality.

 

Tired of bad shops?

Do it yourself .

But I would at least get a wideband O2 sensor so you can monitor your A/F.

 

YES! But tuning and headwork I cant really do at home.... I wish I could tho, I really do. Im a very big DIY enthusiast.

And I've been looking at the AEM UEGO System, I know some DSM'ers with it and they never complain. Except when theyre car breaksdown.. Lol. That way I can moniter AFR and see where I am running too rich or lean, and can advise my tuner about it.

BTW, thanks for the constructive response and not the usual "SEARCH, YOU IDIOT!!" kind of a response.

 

all that money into your block and head and you wont wont pay 150 to get your car tuned? Tuning is the key to making power in any set up, whether your basic bolt on or force induction. the best modification i've put into my 94gsr is my lc1 wideband kit, chip burner and chipped ecu, and vafc. with only 3 inch intake w/vstack-hytech rep header-3 inch mandrel bent exhaust-testpipe-blox im, hondata im gasker. I tuned the afr's between 12.9-13.2 and out of all my mods, tuning has made the biggest difference.

havent dyno'd yet, just been street tuning, but its taught me alot. every little thing you add, changes the afr's in different area's.

 

I agree, tuning is the first place to look. Are you losing any coolant? if not, you don't have head gasket issues, probably tuning issues. Change your IACV gasket before you tune. Get it tuned properly asap.

 

I completely agree, and I would go RIGHT NOW and get my car tuned, but if im misfiring, losing coolant, getting crappy compression, not idling properly, blowing white smoke.. etc etc so what would be the point in that? I'd lose out on $185 (Quote on tune from shop) because the car doesnt run right and I would need to tune it again once it does.

Once I can figure out what is wrong with my car, THE FIRST thing I will do is take it to a performace shop and get it tuned.

 

Yes, I agree, I ordered a new IACV Gasket, its coming in on tuesday.

I took the head off and have puddles of coolant sitting on top of the pistons.. So I replaced the head gasket and used a gasket maker for the IACV. Still nothing has improved. It even began to overheat today.

I took it to Honda and they said they'd figure out whats wrong with my car monday for a nominal fee. I geuss I'll just have to wait and see.

 

The idle thing is most likely the IACV gasket. Anything to cause a vacuum leak is enough to make your idle do weird ****. I remember I had a leaky throttle body gasket and it puzzled me forever until I figured out what it was, idled like butter after. GL

 

unless its a crack in that head and its just enough to get the plugs wet thats one thing it could be.

 

oh God, one of the Honda techs at the shop today looked at me after hearing what was going on and said "Did you pressure test the head? Sounds like its cracked"... All I thought was "FMFL! NOOOOOOOO" I dont have the money for a new head. Im HOPING its just warped, thats what a buddy with 10+ years of experienced says it is.


One thing I wanted to ask, for those who installed ARP Head studs, did you torque them to 80 ft/lbs as per ARP Instructions? Because crazy as it sounds, I think I might have cracked my head when I torqued the studs down... Im not sure. Monday will be the end-all day.. either way will cost me a **** ton of money. Which I DO NOT have right now..

 

sorry this is kind of off but i just got my gsr head done w/ 3 angle valve job. and planning to get my block hone,bore os, and deck. if i run type r over size piston on my gsr block will it clear my gsr head?

 

You're right, your question should posted in it's own thread. The answer is yes unless you deck your block a lot.

 

It's cool, I don't mind, always a pleasure lending a helping hand. Best way to find out is http://www.zealautowerks.com just click the "B series" button and enter in your exact specs. It will give you a piston to deck height. If I'm not mistaken, a positive number means your piston is sticking out of your block. But I'm running jdm itr pistons in my b18c1 and they work flawlessly, because as you may know, C5 and C1 blocks use identical specs as far as crank/block/rod lengths.

 

thanks for the info bro. thats help alot. i actually made a thread but no one reply so thats why i thought i would ask you here since you got a built b18c.

 

No problem, your welcome dude.