Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,843
Likes: 320
From: san diego, ca
Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
Im wondering if anyone here has ever purchased a ITR new from the dealer and did you have to break in the motor and if so how did you? im no noob to the scene and i build my own motors and know how to break in a motor correctly but this is my first new oem motor im just curious if anyone has broke in a new ITR from the dealer, im asking this because im building a new motor and its a factory new completely assembled ITR block, head and tranny all new and never ran so essentially it will be a new ITR motor just like if it came in a new ITR i guess. ill most likely break it in like my built motors but just wanted some insight but previous to this motor i built a high comp gsr motorw/usdm itr pistons ect. made 230hp with a jrsc @5psi, I since sold the motor and will supper charge this new itr motor and use the same hondata ecu and injectors so it should run the same theoretically until its tuned cause the compression is about the same as my high compression gsr motor ill be of course boosting more cause i have a LHT manifold new header and a 70mm t.b to name a few other new mods but i wont boost until its obviously broken in and tuned, moderators can delete this if its a unnecessary thread thanks.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,299
Likes: 0
From: selling YOU a Honda or Acura
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
Hondas new car breakin procedure directly from the owners manual is, avoid jack rabbit starts. Meaning, dont put the pedal to the floor from a dead stop.
Do varied RPMs for the first 600 miles. Meaning stops and starts or "city driving" You want to avoid driving in this period where you would maintain a steady RPM for a long distance.
The reason for this varied RPM schedule is to avoid the possibility of VTEC not engaging or disengaging evenly.
Do not change the oil until the regular recommended interval.
Do not tow a trailer.
Avoid hard braking.
Do varied RPMs for the first 600 miles. Meaning stops and starts or "city driving" You want to avoid driving in this period where you would maintain a steady RPM for a long distance.
The reason for this varied RPM schedule is to avoid the possibility of VTEC not engaging or disengaging evenly.
Do not change the oil until the regular recommended interval.
Do not tow a trailer.
Avoid hard braking.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
Drive normally but not at continuous high speeds for the first 500 miles. Occasional quick bursts of speed followed by quick deceleration during this period, is beneficial. Applying load to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "breaking in" the engine with heavy duty oils (or should be anyway). The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies.
For the next 500 miles, drive normally, but don't hammer it/beat on the car.
As was said, don't tow anything, allow for proper warm up before driving, and avoid harsh cold starts.
You may also want to do a valve adjustment after the first 1000 miles. It is also suggested you change the oil & filter since you should be running "break in" oil for the first 1000 miles or so.
I did this with my factory fresh B18C5 short block (w/ reworked B16A2 head), and it took very good care of me for the two years that I had it before my EM1 Si was stolen.
For the next 500 miles, drive normally, but don't hammer it/beat on the car.
As was said, don't tow anything, allow for proper warm up before driving, and avoid harsh cold starts.
You may also want to do a valve adjustment after the first 1000 miles. It is also suggested you change the oil & filter since you should be running "break in" oil for the first 1000 miles or so.
I did this with my factory fresh B18C5 short block (w/ reworked B16A2 head), and it took very good care of me for the two years that I had it before my EM1 Si was stolen.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,299
Likes: 0
From: selling YOU a Honda or Acura
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
He "shouldnt" need a valve adjustment at that interval and Honda does not use "break in" oil.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,843
Likes: 320
From: san diego, ca
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
Im thinking of using mobile 1 synthetic although iv always used penzoil 10w30 on most all my built gsr motors but might use mobile this time what oil do you guys use to start it and flush, 50wt oil?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
I've always used break in "organic" oils in my new engines. This is something id learned from some serious long time engine builders. Any specific reason why Honda does not do this? Also I know valve adjustments aren't alwahys required but I've always been told its a good measure to take just in case.
Trending Topics
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
i used the incorrect term. What I should have said is "mineral oil", e.g. non synthetic or synthetic blend oil. Royal Purple actually makes a break in mineral oil just for this purpose.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,843
Likes: 320
From: san diego, ca
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
I might use that bu what about there actual oil anyone use it? i once was testing different mods on a n.a b series and one day swapped the cams and header and re tuned and before i re tuned i switched from Pennzoil and used royal purple oil soon after maybe 2 weaks i spun a rod bearing never really figured out why but since then i never used royal purple..how do you guys like the itr gearing from the usdm 4.4 lsd trans, im assuming gear ratio wise its better than the last trans i had which was a gsr with mfactory 1st gear, 4.9 final drive and quaife lsd and im wondering how this brand new itr trans is gonna feel like lol! besides being supper charged im looking forward to this b series spec trans. im very curious to see what this itr trans. gearing feels. ow this might not be the place but anyone know anybody who would trade a complete itr shell minus swap salvage is ok for a salvage but mint red 98 gsr w/oem itr lip kit, complete shell minus swap plus cash it has a ton of upgrades in suspention and looks stock and mint but red has carbon fiber hood paint matched ect..? id love to own a itr with this new itr swap id love to throw some cash on top for a nice itr shell as complete as possible that would be so nice i admire how the white and black itr's look. but its hard to find one in ca so help would be cool pm me haha
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
For the past 8 years, I've solely used Royal Purple oil. I used it in my B18C5'd EM1 Si, my 300RWHP SW20 MR2 turbo, my SR20DET S13 240SX, and now my ITR. I have never had an issue with any of my engines, and they have all made great power on the dyno. Also, these cars all are/were daily drivers which got the living snot beat out of them on the weekends. In case you care, I also couple this oil with K&N Gold oil filters.
Not sure if you are relating it either, but there is no way the oil caused your engine damage unless you did something like not add enough, forgot to put the oil filter back on, etc... just based on your post, if I had to venture a guess your issue was related to the change in cams/mods. Of course bobistheoilguy gave a thumbs up to Royal Purple, so that in and of it self speaks volumes for the product (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/).
As for gearing, I'm using a JDM ITR tranny, so no help there for you there, sorry. I can tell you though, that with this transmission, 1st gear is a bitch for traction at times.
Not sure if you are relating it either, but there is no way the oil caused your engine damage unless you did something like not add enough, forgot to put the oil filter back on, etc... just based on your post, if I had to venture a guess your issue was related to the change in cams/mods. Of course bobistheoilguy gave a thumbs up to Royal Purple, so that in and of it self speaks volumes for the product (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/).
As for gearing, I'm using a JDM ITR tranny, so no help there for you there, sorry. I can tell you though, that with this transmission, 1st gear is a bitch for traction at times.
Last edited by PYITR678; Mar 2, 2010 at 09:44 PM.
I said I don't want a title!
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 11,506
Likes: 2
From: OH
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
Im wondering if anyone here has ever purchased a ITR new from the dealer and did you have to break in the motor and if so how did you? im no noob to the scene and i build my own motors and know how to break in a motor correctly but this is my first new oem motor im just curious if anyone has broke in a new ITR from the dealer, im asking this because im building a new motor and its a factory new completely assembled ITR block, head and tranny all new and never ran so essentially it will be a new ITR motor just like if it came in a new ITR i guess. ill most likely break it in like my built motors but just wanted some insight but previous to this motor i built a high comp gsr motorw/usdm itr pistons ect. made 230hp with a jrsc @5psi, I since sold the motor and will supper charge this new itr motor and use the same hondata ecu and injectors so it should run the same theoretically until its tuned cause the compression is about the same as my high compression gsr motor ill be of course boosting more cause i have a LHT manifold new header and a 70mm t.b to name a few other new mods but i wont boost until its obviously broken in and tuned, moderators can delete this if its a unnecessary thread thanks.
I might use that bu what about there actual oil anyone use it? i once was testing different mods on a n.a b series and one day swapped the cams and header and re tuned and before i re tuned i switched from Pennzoil and used royal purple oil soon after maybe 2 weaks i spun a rod bearing never really figured out why but since then i never used royal purple..how do you guys like the itr gearing from the usdm 4.4 lsd trans, im assuming gear ratio wise its better than the last trans i had which was a gsr with mfactory 1st gear, 4.9 final drive and quaife lsd and im wondering how this brand new itr trans is gonna feel like lol! besides being supper charged im looking forward to this b series spec trans. im very curious to see what this itr trans. gearing feels. ow this might not be the place but anyone know anybody who would trade a complete itr shell minus swap salvage is ok for a salvage but mint red 98 gsr w/oem itr lip kit, complete shell minus swap plus cash it has a ton of upgrades in suspention and looks stock and mint but red has carbon fiber hood paint matched ect..? id love to own a itr with this new itr swap id love to throw some cash on top for a nice itr shell as complete as possible that would be so nice i admire how the white and black itr's look. but its hard to find one in ca so help would be cool pm me haha
I might use that bu what about there actual oil anyone use it? i once was testing different mods on a n.a b series and one day swapped the cams and header and re tuned and before i re tuned i switched from Pennzoil and used royal purple oil soon after maybe 2 weaks i spun a rod bearing never really figured out why but since then i never used royal purple..how do you guys like the itr gearing from the usdm 4.4 lsd trans, im assuming gear ratio wise its better than the last trans i had which was a gsr with mfactory 1st gear, 4.9 final drive and quaife lsd and im wondering how this brand new itr trans is gonna feel like lol! besides being supper charged im looking forward to this b series spec trans. im very curious to see what this itr trans. gearing feels. ow this might not be the place but anyone know anybody who would trade a complete itr shell minus swap salvage is ok for a salvage but mint red 98 gsr w/oem itr lip kit, complete shell minus swap plus cash it has a ton of upgrades in suspention and looks stock and mint but red has carbon fiber hood paint matched ect..? id love to own a itr with this new itr swap id love to throw some cash on top for a nice itr shell as complete as possible that would be so nice i admire how the white and black itr's look. but its hard to find one in ca so help would be cool pm me haha
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,843
Likes: 320
From: san diego, ca
I said I don't want a title!
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 11,506
Likes: 2
From: OH
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,843
Likes: 320
From: san diego, ca
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
LOL so your saying you barely understood what i said??.. I'm not trying to be mean but you really need to leave this thread if your here to argue over my punctuation everyone else understood my English very well thank you. and i admit i need to correct some things but its readable.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 974
Likes: 0
From: New Jeru, usa
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
yes, he is being serious. A 3rd grader can write better than you. Learn how to use some... you know, "punctuations". It might benefit you in the real world someday.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 0
From: all mugen all the time, usa
I said I don't want a title!
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 11,506
Likes: 2
From: OH
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
Everything Honda uses has a part number. With that, if there were a special oil, then someone should be able to look it up.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,299
Likes: 0
From: selling YOU a Honda or Acura
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 9,865
Likes: 5
From: Oregon
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
the reason behind dino oil in new motors is to allow the rings to seat. synthetics are so slick it can prevent the rings from seating on the hone. dino oil allows enough friction to help seat the rings. generally you change new oil at 500-1000 miles but it's not mandatory. it's just likely you will see metallic flake in your oil from the bearings and rings seating. after the first 1000 miles synthetics are the way to go.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,843
Likes: 320
From: san diego, ca
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
So what oil should i run for the start up and first 1,000 miles dino oil?? is that the name of the oil brand? i was gonna use 50wt oil to start it up then flush it right after then run 5w30 and use my reg. break in method, should i stay with 5w30 synthetic after the break in method?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 9,865
Likes: 5
From: Oregon
Re: Breaking in a ITR motor from the dealer?
dino is any conventional oil. it stands for dinosaur oil. pick any 5-30. 10-30 or just 30 and use it. 50w is awful thick for as tight as these engines are built. 50w runs a risk of delayed lubrication due to how damn thick the film is.
here's a neat link if you ever wondered how many gallons of gas a tyrannosaur equals.
http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=6021
here's a neat link if you ever wondered how many gallons of gas a tyrannosaur equals.
http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=6021