so i just installed a new fidanza 3.2 4 puck sprung clutch and 7.5 lb fidanza flywheel
we bled out the slave many times i mean for like 40 mins or so
at first i started the car and it would not go into any gear shut it off it would. so we proceed to bleed the slave (wich is fairly new this year) and it slowly got better. I could start to get it in 2nd gear and 3rd, more bleeding two bottles of brake fluid later we had to push car out of my friends work cause it was closing. couple more times bleeding it and i said **** it im gonna drive it down the street mind you its still hard to ge it in first force it in and drive it its kinda grinding in third come back bleed it out one more time rest of third bottle. drive it home
it seemed to get better as i drove starting off hard into first but getting better then i just had to move it and seemed to be very close to better how is this
any body herd of this am i bleeding it wrong pumpin pedel and cracking the slave help me please fellas

 

You are holding the pedal down after you pump it a few times right?

 

yup do i have to bleed the master. im retarded the honda manual said to unhook the line but u can just bend it out of the way i dint realize its my first clutch install

 

How is your clutch pedal, is it pretty soft where it'll drop straight to the floor easily, or is it pretty stiff?

 

clutch feels pretty decent no drop in it at all its a brand new and its my first stage 3 clutch i thought it would be stiffer than stock not much diff to me

 

well, what i'm thinking is that if your clutch feels pretty decent then you probaly bleed it right. try listening to the tranny to see if it makes any noise when you press down on the clutch. My guess is that the throw out bearing is loose and not attach to the fork on the tranny, but maybe someone can touch base on this more.

 

i replaced pilot and throwout bearing they came with the kit. what kind of noise my car is really loud its hard to hear quiet noises

 

listen for a whining noise coming from the tranny when the clutch pedal is depress down to the floor. you can hear the differences in noise when you bring the clutch pedal back up. are you sure your tranny is still in good condition? if it is then my next guess is you installed the clutch incorrectly. Did you also align it with the alignment tool?

 

honestly the tool dint fit in the pilot bearing so we had to line it up by eye but it was centered pretty good it shifts fine wile off now today im gonna go drive it it seemed to not happen as much last night its mostly first do i need to adjust something

 

No those are just symptons of air in the line still. Have you tried using a bleeder syringer? Basically its a big syringe with a rubber hose on the end of it. Remove the cap from the master cylinder resevoir then hook the hose to the bleeder screw nipple and as you pull back on the plunger open the bleeder screw and close the bleeder screw before you stop pulling and the plunger reaches the end of its stroke. Try that a couple of times and see if that helps. It worked on my brothers BMW when we did the manual swap.

 

well i drove it today and the problem seems to get better and better now its like when u try to put the car in first gear to early coming to a stop sign it wont go but when u get to a low enough rpm or speed it slips in. this is what it feels like but how can it have air in the system if the pedal feels fine

 

hey guy whats up? i work at a transmission shop. did you by chance let the system drain all the way down to empty? you mite have to bench bleed the master cause you need to have it at a 45 degree angle. and if that doesnt help nothing their is one more thing cause you said its been starting to get a little better before you installed your clutch did you clean the flywheel with brake cleaner they ship them with a oil on them so they dont develope rust and that can really hurt a clutch. these are just some of my thoughts one more thing watch your slace move your fork it should move about a inch

 

Just because the pedal feels fine doesnt mean its completely bled. Just like when you have air in the brake system the pedal doesnt go all the way to the floor and you still have braking capability.

 

How would a alignment tool from the kit, not fit? Maybe you weren't lined up to begin with. when you put the tranny back on the block, was it difficult? seemed harder than normal?

 

i just got done doing a clutch job and the alignment tool didn't fit either it happens companies make mistakes. Good thing i had another alignment tool.

 

as long as the trans goes into the engine it self aligns one u depress the clutch anyways.


but yeah u probaly haVE AIR in the system.
u are suppose to bleed the master cylinder out the car if u replace it or it will have tons of air.

u now just need to bleed the **** out of it, i suggest pumping and keep the drain opne and someone just keep filling it up and pump the pedal than bleed it again with pressure

 

Did you change the pressure plate as well? You didn't list that in your parts. If you didn't, that would explain why the system isn't as stiff as you thought it would be.

 

ok lots to answer first off i did let it completly drain out but it was the slave i unhooked would i still have to bleed master if so how do i do this properly. i did clean he surface where the disc meets the flywheel with brake clean and the tool didnt fit in the bearing in the flywheel(PILOT) I THINK. yes it also got new pressure plate and the tranny went on fine. how about shift linkage if its bent i knowit was a little bent right after where it bolts to shifter but not bad and i bent it back

 

BUMP^^

 

ok did you by chance check to see how much your fork moves?