Ok I'm confused i have a 94 civic dx all stock.... and i need new rotors my question is can i put ex rotors in the front for now (and later get itr calipers i know i have to mill them) so will 10.3 rotors fit my dx without mods

 

you're going to have to buy DX rotors...the EX rotor is too big to clear your DX calipers

* on a DX knuckle, the only way to get the EX rotor to work is w/ 17CL15VN itr calipers

 

went to the junk yard picked up some 17CL15VN calipers off a acura legend.... ill see if i can mill them down this weekend.. also picked up a 15/16" prelude brake master cylinder

 

i got a problem can someone tell what it could be ( i put the 10.3 rotors on milled the calipers and installed the brake MC.... so i bleed it and everything and the brakes were working good but when i reached about 40mph it wouldnt go any more, then smoke starting coming out of the brakes mostly the driver side only) so i took them off put stock back on and the 10.3 rotors had the brake pad burn onto it (what's wrong)

 

lorenzookc,

i'm sorry to hear the news about your set-up

i applaud you for removing the faulty system; it's always safety first until you can figure out the problems.

according to your post, when you hit 40 mph, was this your 1st time on the DX 10.3" ITR set-up?

there's definately something binding & locking; your pads & rotors are the evidence of this.

inspect the calipers & make sure they're not seized:
1. check the caliper pistons for rust
2. look at the condition of the seal (or o-ring) around the caliper piston.
3. also check for ripped rubber grease boots on the brackets. make sure the pins are greased & move freely. this part, which holds the bracket and caliper together on a bolt should slide & spin freely (can be broken free w/ breaker bar)

it's a good idea to examine the pads/rotors, and compare the left side to right side.

if you're binding on your driver's side caliper, something's causing lock-up.

your brackets are: 23T? 25T? 28T?

did you have a chance to look at the milled brackets?

who machined your brackets?

how much did you mill/machine off the brackets?

any chance you have pics of the machined brackets (both sides)?


i would advise you to remove your wheels, remove your current caliper set-up (without removing brake hose/no bleeding/ & use a metal clothes hanger to keep out of the way) & do a mock test fit.

install the 17CL15VN caliper again, brackets, pads, and rotors (no brake hose yet).

put the wheels back on...spin each front wheel & make sure it moves freely.

 

hey thanks for all the info.... i haven't had a chance to work on them... as soon as i get off work i will

i have the 23t bracket..

ive looked at the milled brackets...

i grinded them down with a angle grinder but i think i only grinded 3mm.. ill post pics of them later

 

ok after looking at the calipers look what i saw inside them ( the rotor is hitting the inside of caliper) why is that.... and on both of them but more the driver side




and another question is the right caliper suppose to be on the left and the left on the right side ( example...cause if you put the right on the right you have to flip it and the bleed screw is on the bottom)

a pic of bracket




i took the sliders off they werent even tight and i goin to lube them up

 

the reason why the calipers are hitting the rotors is simple:

according to your pics, you don't have enough shaved off.

i don't think you have 3mm shaved off; compare your brackets to the pics below:

without a drill press, it'll be difficult to accurately shave off the right amount with an angle grinder.

find a good machine shop, contact brian @fastbrakes.com or PM honda-tech member BE2

Originally Posted by lorenzookc,
"and another question is the right caliper suppose to be on the left and the left on the right side ( example...cause if you put the right on the right you have to flip it and the bleed screw is on the bottom)"


* * Legend calipers ARE similar to the Prelude/Integra-R/Civic-R calipers (they're all stamped 1 7 C L 1 5 V N), though since the Legend had the caliper on the back, swap them left to right to keep the bleeder pointing up during bleeding.

 

thanks man after i saw it i knew i had to grind more off the brackets (im goin to get a good angle grinder cause the one i had went out p.o.s lol )

and thats how i put them on the right on the left and left on right.... now it off to grinding

 

DX knuckles to ITR calipers on 10.3" rotors write-up

click the link below for reference:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1484555

don't forget to shave a little off the bottom of the pads

Originally Posted by BrakeExpert, "This is the pad, ITR pads, grinded about a millimeter, maybe more, off the bottom of the backing plate to clear the rotor's hat so it won't make noise. I hit these pads with a bench grinder, about 5 minutes. The test fit was a success, the rotor does not hit the pad, and the caliper doesnt grab that part, nor did i dig into the pad material, so all is well.
Don't forget your shims and anti-vibration compound or they may squeal anyways!"




ps: a good indication of a properly machined bracket is to look for:
the "3" in 23T
and the "F" in 44F
to be cut in half

again, the amount machined should be equivalent on both side of each bracket
(part of the bracket which mates to the knuckle)

 

ok when you say look at the f and 3 do you mean it has to be milled down to half of the F and 3 (like in pic horizontal way)

 

yes, slice #3 & F in half;
left to right on your pic:




here's a few more pics so you can get a better idea:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagon Guru @ hondacivicwagon.com, pic taken from http://www.hondacivicwagon.com/bb/vi...php?f=8&t=6241


Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeailburn,


Quote:
Originally Posted by kommon_sense,