Better Breaking at Higher RPM???
I have a crx with the average[stock]brake booster 4wheel disc....
lately my idle has been low....I have notice that this causes my breaks to suck ***??? Unless i leave it in gear or downshift or rev.....
Something to do with the hose on the intake manifold/booster?
anyways other than increasing idle to make breaks stronger...Like without buying bigger better stuff what can i do for now?
better fluids?
Cleaning disc/caliper with cleaner?
adjusting or maintaince on booster and cyclinder?
lately my idle has been low....I have notice that this causes my breaks to suck ***??? Unless i leave it in gear or downshift or rev.....

Something to do with the hose on the intake manifold/booster?
anyways other than increasing idle to make breaks stronger...Like without buying bigger better stuff what can i do for now?
better fluids?
Cleaning disc/caliper with cleaner?
adjusting or maintaince on booster and cyclinder?
...let me get this straight, you have a stock booster, and a rear disk conversion?
try using a booster from a honda with 4wheel disk brakes. like maybe a teg brake booster. just a thought.
try using a booster from a honda with 4wheel disk brakes. like maybe a teg brake booster. just a thought.
not that this isnt right ^ but i have rear disc conversion and stock booster and there is no problems
I bought the car with them already installed-
And what difference would i get from using a really good break fluid...stiffer pedal?
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are you low on brake fluid? How thick are your brake pads?
look at the 5th post here and test your booster https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=booster
brake fluid absorbs water over time, so changing the fluid basically gets rid of that moisture.
I would recommend that you bleed the brake fluid, it could be 20 years old for all you know. and yes you should get a stiffer pedal if the fluid is bad. and all you need is "new" fluid not necessarily "good" fluid. hope that makes sense.
Using a different color fluid will help you determine when all the old fluid is gone. make sure not to mix dot3 and dot4 with dot5, 3 and 4 can mix, but 5 doesn't mix with either, it turns into a gel.
look at the 5th post here and test your booster https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=booster
brake fluid absorbs water over time, so changing the fluid basically gets rid of that moisture.
I would recommend that you bleed the brake fluid, it could be 20 years old for all you know. and yes you should get a stiffer pedal if the fluid is bad. and all you need is "new" fluid not necessarily "good" fluid. hope that makes sense.
Using a different color fluid will help you determine when all the old fluid is gone. make sure not to mix dot3 and dot4 with dot5, 3 and 4 can mix, but 5 doesn't mix with either, it turns into a gel.
My Fluid is about half way between Min/Max...
My Break pads are okay,,,Not the worlds best...The have beff left but they just feel to hard for my prefernce...
Is that why Mugen sells Covers to go over the reservoir? to prevent Moisture?
hmm.
Thanks for the link and suggestions/
My Break pads are okay,,,Not the worlds best...The have beff left but they just feel to hard for my prefernce...
Is that why Mugen sells Covers to go over the reservoir? to prevent Moisture?
hmm.
Thanks for the link and suggestions/
also, if the brake booster was losing pressure, it wouldn't so much cause your brakes to feel sucky as it would make it hard as hell to press the pedal. the booster just makes it easier to engage the brakes. so if you are having to press harder on the pedal for the brakes to engage, then maybe it would be the booster problem. however if you are able to engage the brakes like normal, but they just don't seem to be stopping the car as well, i'd suggest looking elsewhere.
Yeah, Im guessing between the low idle old fluid old pads that still have pad leaf over are just not cutting it...
i just started a thread cause i almost ran off the road.=]
fast speeds w/ the engine at idle caused crappy breaks
i just started a thread cause i almost ran off the road.=]
fast speeds w/ the engine at idle caused crappy breaks
one more thing u can check is if some one swaped the rear disc into ur car then they may not have changed the proportioning valve look at it make sure u have a 40/40 and not something else..
the mugen covers are ment to catch overflowing brake fluid, for heavy duty applications where the brake fluid may get hot enough to boil over.
But its mostly used as a bling item.
so are you gonna bleed the brakes or what? have you tried anything in the way of tests? we need some feedback from you. does pumping the brakes help?
Dam if you cant figure out your problem you should consider parking it until you can fix it or take it to a shop. It sounds like its fairly unsafe.
good luck
But its mostly used as a bling item.
so are you gonna bleed the brakes or what? have you tried anything in the way of tests? we need some feedback from you. does pumping the brakes help?
Dam if you cant figure out your problem you should consider parking it until you can fix it or take it to a shop. It sounds like its fairly unsafe.
good luck
My car sit up on the front end while applying hard breaks
the mugen covers are ment to catch overflowing brake fluid, for heavy duty applications where the brake fluid may get hot enough to boil over.
But its mostly used as a bling item.
so are you gonna bleed the brakes or what? have you tried anything in the way of tests? we need some feedback from you. does pumping the brakes help?
Dam if you cant figure out your problem you should consider parking it until you can fix it or take it to a shop. It sounds like its fairly unsafe.
good luck
But its mostly used as a bling item.
so are you gonna bleed the brakes or what? have you tried anything in the way of tests? we need some feedback from you. does pumping the brakes help?
Dam if you cant figure out your problem you should consider parking it until you can fix it or take it to a shop. It sounds like its fairly unsafe.
good luck
Front right rotor had a micro crack toward the hub, the rotors needed to be replaced. the pads where unevenly warn and almost out of pad...they were cheap as hell. and the fluid had a little moisture in it. And my front end has integra calipers that have bigger pistons than what the system was used to running....Now I can stop on a dime with the replacements.
i got expensive rotors not cheap pretty ones.
not to be "that guy", but i gotta say it...
break- to create necessity for repair
brake- to stop
I always see this in forums, and although its an honest mistake, it bothers the hell out of me.
break- to create necessity for repair
brake- to stop
I always see this in forums, and although its an honest mistake, it bothers the hell out of me.
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