Unbelievable.


I changed the spark plugs to NGK Iridiums from the Bosch junk that was in there, new spark plug wires, short ram intake, 4 bottles of fuel injector cleaner, a trip to the mechanic who did the fuel injector cleaner also, and finally did the throttle body cleaner and it STILL idles rough, although the throttle body cleaner was the only thing that made a noticeable difference.


Also - when changing the spark plugs, there was oil on one of them

Help!


PS - Does anyone know any ways to make a good amount of power to the wheels without turbo charging the car? I turn my own wrench and would like to know what mods can be done to make it faster. I was thinking bigger injectors and a tune. Sounds ricey, but idk any other way to ask, ha. Thanks!

 

Obviously you're full of **** and haven't tried a millions things:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...lug+tube+seals
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...lug+tube+seals
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/cleaning-iacv-fitv-tb-1844067/
http://www.freewebs.com/hondadude/95...l%20Filter.htm
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/1...nsor101po8.gif

If you can turn a wrench then you can USE THE SEARCH BUTTON or FAQ.

PS - Bigger injectors with tune won't do **** without any headwork.

 

Cool, I was gonna post the same thing. I just swapped in fresh plugs and the car runs much better, I'm thinking I will get 500 miles of trouble-free driving out of this set before they wetfoul out again. gonna need a long weekend to tackle this

 

Here are a few other things you can check; distributor cap, rotor, EGR port cleaning, engine mounts, compression test, base idle, balance shaft belt and reset the ECU.

For more power try Intake/Header/Exhaust, a level 2 cam (valve springs???) and a tune.

 

or a cylinder head swap, or maybe even an entire motor swap since the H series are a dime a dozen now days. Or at least they are for me. (currently have 4 H-blocks, and yet the chassis remains without a motor.. )

 

Alright! So when the snow goes away and the weather gets a little warmer, I'll use my newly acquired Leatherman Charge TTi and work on the cars idle when I am off from school.



As soon as I get the idle fixed the car will be in excellent running condition.

 

Well here is an update:


Here is what I've done to try and fix the idle:

1 - Fuel injector cleaner. Nothing.
2 - Aftermarket air intake. Nothing.
3 - Idle screw adjustment. Slight difference, but not much.
4 - EGR port cleaning a few days ago. Nothing.
5 - NGK Iridium spark plugs. Nothing.
6 - IACV cleaning. Nothing.
7 - New spark plug wires. Nothing.
8 - Throttle body cleaning/butterfly valve clean. Nothing.

9 - It may sound stupid, but I took a zip tie and put it on this metal piece on the throttle, it keeps the butterfly valve open just enough at idle for it to sit around 850-1000 RPM.

I've determined the problem is the engine mounts, and although the idle has always pissed me off, I'm done investing money into this car.

I did think about buying some cheap mounts off ebay or something and bringing it down to the guys in hunts point and have them change them out for a few hundred.

What do you think?

 

What is your idle at?

It should be ~700rpm, if it's rough there you may have something like broken motor mounts. Get someone to rev the car while you look, see if you have any breaks in them.

 

It does hang around 700, I figured that is where it is supposed to be but its rough and annoying, so I have it at almost 1000.


How can I tell if there is a break in the mounts, do you mean like a crack?

And thats actually a good point - I'm wondering which mounts need replacing, this way I can save a few bucks.

 

I think TheMuffinMan is right. The front mounts are notoriuos for breakage. The one by the radiator check both "legs" of the mount. You will need a flashlight. And then check the others.

 

Just hold a flash light to them and you will see the mount flex where it's broken.

 

If you had oil in one of the spark plugs could be the spark plug gaskets going bad.. By any chance is the #2 cylinder the one with the leak because thats usually the first to show signs. I suggest getting the valve cover gasket kit which includes the spark plug upper and lower gaskets as well as the valve cover and do them all except the lower ones unless you suspect the lower ones to be faulty as well

 

Yep I read the same info here on this site, I'm thinking about buying that kit you are talking about but I just haven't gotten around to it. The car runs fine anyway with oil leaking into it, the plug is not fouled and neither was the old one.

Anyway, I noticed that when coming off the clutch while the car is in gear I hear and feel a clunk... it's like everything is just being smashed together. Then again I come off the clutch fast so that might have something to do with it, but could that be an engine mount issue? Also, when giving the car gas in a sometimes I'll hear a "screech" sound coming from the engine bay. What the hell could that be?

 

That "screech" sound is your car crying desperately for the attention of a trained mechanic.

 

Clunk = possible Throwout bearing or dampener going bad
Screech = Probably one of the two accessory drive belts require replacing/tightening

 

definitely motor mounts, buy them and let the idle back to 700 thats the proper setting.

 

and yes, releasing the clutch too fast can cause a clunk sound from the tranny, release it slowly, when i started out in manual a long time ago, once upon a time (thats another story) i use to release it too fast, but practice makes perfect.