Car Start-Up fine in morning after Driving Around fails to start up, low rpm
Anyone have these symptoms for an Accord v6 EX 2000? In the early morning, I wake up 6AM and I start up the car for the work. It revs really high to 1.5k-2k rpm and goes down to 800ish during ignition. Then I drive around and everything is good. Doesn't stall or do anything abnormal. However after I drive it around for a while and restart the car a few times, the 3rd or 4th time, after restarting the car, it doesn't start up. It would crank up to 800-1.1k rpm (not like in the morning where it goes high) and slowly the RPM would go down down down and then the engine dies.
I replaced the spark plugs already about a year ago. I thought that fixed the problem but then it happened again 4 months later, and a nother 8 months later, it's happening again.
Then I go to autozone, and get the engine light check I get 5 out 6 engine misfire codes. So the next thing I do is go clean out the fuel injectors.
If i can switch the car to "Drive" though when I am starting up the engine before it dies, it drives fine. But left on park or neutral it just won't start up unless I put my feet on the gas pedal for like 5 minutes.
What is this usually a sign of? Bad MAP sensors? Error codes I got from Autozone are PO301, PO302, PO304, PO305, PO306. It popped out
Vacuum Leak effecting one cyclinder
Ignition system concern
blocked/faulty fuel injector
Engine mechincical condition
This car gots 104k on it...getting sorta old.
I replaced the spark plugs already about a year ago. I thought that fixed the problem but then it happened again 4 months later, and a nother 8 months later, it's happening again.
Then I go to autozone, and get the engine light check I get 5 out 6 engine misfire codes. So the next thing I do is go clean out the fuel injectors.
If i can switch the car to "Drive" though when I am starting up the engine before it dies, it drives fine. But left on park or neutral it just won't start up unless I put my feet on the gas pedal for like 5 minutes.
What is this usually a sign of? Bad MAP sensors? Error codes I got from Autozone are PO301, PO302, PO304, PO305, PO306. It popped out
Vacuum Leak effecting one cyclinder
Ignition system concern
blocked/faulty fuel injector
Engine mechincical condition
This car gots 104k on it...getting sorta old.
it's probably your main relay located under the drivers side dash area. There was a recall for the ignition relay, but that only applied if your car would stall while you where driving it. Here is what causes these main relays to fail.
1. Car gets hot..
2. solder in relay starts to deteriorate over time
3. car cools down, solder reconnects to the board.
I imagine this only does it once in a while. Usually happens after winter when the temperature is warming up. Essentially, it is an easy $50 replacement part, or if you wanted to, you could re-solder the connection in the relay itself. (I do not recommend). Best thing for you to do is get in the car and turn your key to the II slot and listen for a click. If the relay is bad it will not click. Also, just because it clicks doesn't mean it's not faulty. I just replaced mine in my CG2 so I feel your pain, it is really annoying. This forum doesn't have the replacement sticky, but if you want some more info, PM me and I'll hook you up with the info.
People are going to tell you it's the fuel pump, or some other crap, but don't waste your time on that until you've eliminated this... Based on your symptoms...this is your problem.
1. Car gets hot..
2. solder in relay starts to deteriorate over time
3. car cools down, solder reconnects to the board.
I imagine this only does it once in a while. Usually happens after winter when the temperature is warming up. Essentially, it is an easy $50 replacement part, or if you wanted to, you could re-solder the connection in the relay itself. (I do not recommend). Best thing for you to do is get in the car and turn your key to the II slot and listen for a click. If the relay is bad it will not click. Also, just because it clicks doesn't mean it's not faulty. I just replaced mine in my CG2 so I feel your pain, it is really annoying. This forum doesn't have the replacement sticky, but if you want some more info, PM me and I'll hook you up with the info.
People are going to tell you it's the fuel pump, or some other crap, but don't waste your time on that until you've eliminated this... Based on your symptoms...this is your problem.
Thanks man. OMG if this fixes my problem I be so damn happy. Sending you a pm now.
Edit. When i google and search Relay, I see, fuel inector relay, accessory relay, and main relay...which one is it?
Edit. When i google and search Relay, I see, fuel inector relay, accessory relay, and main relay...which one is it?
Thanks. Does the main relay really caused the RPM to rev down and then die during engine start up? Base on what I googled it only caused the car not to start? And the only way to star the car is by stepping on the gas and holding steady for a while?
What type of clicks? When I turn my key I hear 6 ping noises. Is that the click you are talking about?
Best thing for you to do is get in the car and turn your key to the II slot and listen for a click.
shut your door. turn all noises off (radio etc.) . Turn key to slot II listen for a tiny click under the dash down by your feet. stick your head down there if you can't hear it. If you don't hear any click..it's dead.
ignore this... the relay, nor the wiring looks like this.
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How do I remove the main relay? I went under my driver side and I think saw where it's at. The thing I attempted was removing the wiring cable clip thingy (not sure what it's called) but I had no clue. I probably tried for 25 minutes but couldn't do it. I could barely move around or even see it. Something else was in front of the main relay.
Do I stick a flat head somewhere in the clip? Anyone got a picture or a youtube video?
Do I stick a flat head somewhere in the clip? Anyone got a picture or a youtube video?
Bumping an old *** thread.
But anways, I replaced the main relay it still happens. So I just dealt with it for like the last 8 months. Then finally today I think it died.
Car doesn't start at all anymore. I turn key, and I can hear it crank, but it's not starting. Anyone know what the problem might be? Is it the fuel pump T_T? Its not the battery. Just changed that. Also, I had the timing belt changed about 6 months ago. So I don't think it's that. I hope that it's not that.
But anways, I replaced the main relay it still happens. So I just dealt with it for like the last 8 months. Then finally today I think it died.
Car doesn't start at all anymore. I turn key, and I can hear it crank, but it's not starting. Anyone know what the problem might be? Is it the fuel pump T_T? Its not the battery. Just changed that. Also, I had the timing belt changed about 6 months ago. So I don't think it's that. I hope that it's not that.
Quick update. After letting it sit at the local safeway about 1 hour. The car was able to start up. Drove it back home.
Isn't the ECU one the last things you want to change? Also isn't super expensive?
Isn't the ECU one the last things you want to change? Also isn't super expensive?
tl;dr
this reminds me of when m motorcycle would die when it was at low revs. it was because the fuel **** was in the wrong position, so the engine wasn't getting enough gas.
thats my best advice, hope it helps
this reminds me of when m motorcycle would die when it was at low revs. it was because the fuel **** was in the wrong position, so the engine wasn't getting enough gas.
thats my best advice, hope it helps
I had this problem in a chevy I once owned, turned out to be a loose and corroded ground wire. When cold, connection would be good enough to start car. As car warmed up the thermal expansion would not allow car to start. When car cooled off again it would start. Remove the main ground from battery, sandpaper the connection area, and tighten back down. do the same on the starter connections and battery connections.
i own car hacks and mods for dummies, and in it they mention how to make your own ecu mostly from parts you can get a radioshack, and you can find open source code from others that have tried it online
HI! Did you ever figure out the problem? Currently having almost the exact same issue on my 02 accord! Changed alternator and fuel pump… car will crank and drive a little bit then kills. Wait 20-30 min it will start back up, but not everytime. I’m at my wits end with it. I’m a single mom and it’s my only way to go. Any and all advice is appreciated!!! Thanks!
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