I put this up on another forum, but I wanted to share with Honda-Tech as well...so those of you that have already see it don't harass me too bad! :p Here are a few pictures of the motor I am putting together in the next few weeks for my street car. I am not building the car for a class...just something fun to tinker around with and roam the streets. We have a very active street scene around here, and especially a couple hours north of us on the south side of Chicago. US41 Dragway still has some old school no clocks money lanes and it gets rowdy. That is what this is all about...cleaning the dirty streets between here and there

The car is my Midori EK hatch, which will remain a full chassis street car with all the creature comforts I enjoy. No cage and cut up stuff so that it looks normal and remains a little inconspicuous to those that don't know what it is.

Block
I sent the K24A1 block out to Blueprint Racing for their M1 Abrams sleeves. They were super fast and everything came back just like they said it would. The first thing that will happen today is this thing gets its final bore and hone with a torque plate.


The crankshaft is an OEM 103mm crank with a GSR bearing. Really simple setup, and it gets the job done in a cost effective manner. I'm not rich, so I don't spend money where it doesn't need to be spent. The forged OEM cranks are very strong and have never let us down.


The piston and rod is something that I came up with for a good lightweight but reliable package. The piston is lightweight, but has a ring package more suited for a streetable car and long life. I took weight out where it made sense and wouldn't affect the lifespan of the piston. With the chamber size I am running, this will put the motor around 16:1 compression, and the piston is around 250 grams.



I had this aluminum rod made this way for a couple reasons...#1 the lead time is short compared to a custom length steel rod #2 it is cost effective...about $300+ less than a custom lightweight steel rod and #3 it is pretty light...at 340 grams, we should be able to carry the powerband another couple hundred rpm. We have also used them for a long time and they work great.




Cylinder Head

This is my favorite part of the engine For a cylinder head I will be running our 4 Piston Racing CNC port in a K24A1 CRV head. My intentions are to use our Pro 163 DW port, but we are also going to try the smaller port volume Pro 158. They both flow the similar in the higher ranges, but in low lift areas the 163 does flow more. I'm trying both based purely on port volume and fueling characteristics and not the flow numbers. I think the 163 is going to be the ticket with the displacement of the engine.

Pro 163 DW on right...Pro 158 upper left


I'm really happy about how the heads have turned out. Kenny Weld, founder of Weld Tech (www.weldtech.com) invented CNC cylinder head porting, and everyone has been trying to catch up for a long time. We wanted the best work for this program, so Weld Tech was the perfect fit. Luke received a customer head Friday and it was completed with seats, guides, porting, valve job, surface and ready to ship by the end of the day Friday. So much for people holding heads for weeks or months at a time!


On Weld Tech's Superflow SF600 the intake flows as follows...
.200 - 180
.300 - 256
.400 - 318
.500 - 354
.550 - 365
.600 - 372
.650 - 375

Everyone always asks "why do you flow at .600 and .650?" We are opening the valve over .600, so why wouldn't we?

The exhaust side is something that we fell into on the dyno. We have a really good flowing exhaust port, but it just wasn't making a difference on the dyno. So Luke came up with this pretty unique exhaust port that didn't flow all that hot, but it certainly picked up some power. The flow was in the desirable range for exhaust to intake flow ratio, and the dyno didn't lie. Sorry no pics of that

Exhaust flow on the 600...
.200 - 134
.300 - 183
.400 - 216
.500 - 230
.550 - 231
.600 - 233
.650 - 237

The head features A25 Copper Beryllium intake seats that will hold a custom 37mm 50 degree valve that I came up with. We have done several back to back tests with this valve and it shines on the dyno.


The exhaust side uses a stock seat and stock size 45 degree valve. Both sides get a full length bronze guide for valve stability. We tried a few different guides, and finally found one with consistent machining that we were happy with.

To control valve motion, I am using the same springs that we have had great luck with in our race car. It is a PSI MaxLife spring. It is big money as far as springs go, but springs are consumables in an engine just like everything else. In engines that are pushed this hard, they wear out fast and we have found that a good quality spring like this will last many times longer and saves us money in the long run. I also see a lot of people worried about spring pressures at installed height, and I take a different approach altogether. I set the spring up so that in the event of a missed shift or overrev, the valve cannot contact the piston if floated. My spring pressures are a little higher, but I have found power and decreased valvetrain wear with the pressures I'm running. Never a failed OEM tensioner, no wear on cams, no breakage of rockers, limited valve bounce on the seat...it is very under control. This is what I have used in USAC, Stock Car, and the IRL motors, so it seemed like a good place to start for a quality spring. Made in the USA for once!


Camshafts are one of those things just like everything else where I have to try it and see it with my own eyes. Between what I have collected for this and what we have tried in the Insight, we have enough sitting around that I can come up with something that will work and accelerate the car well. I need something that makes a fat midrange. I'd love to just KNOW what will work and avoid all the dyno time, but that just isn't the case. Testing will start with the following.
Go Power cast .572
BluePrint PRO cast
Crane .5XX cast
Crane .6XX billet
Crane .6VV billet
And one other .6xx that we are working on now for the Insight
This testing is always a pain in the butt, but completely necessary to find what the engine wants.
EDIT: I lost the original picture I had here, but we ended up making our own cam that was larger than all of the above


Rocker duties will be left up to these Ferrea rollers. They aren't ideal in my opinion, but they are pretty light and the best thing currently available. Also, all my camshafts are setup for a single roller. Once I find something that works, maybe a 2 roller will be cut to keep valve motion separate.


Here are some K-Series rockers next to the H22 and B-Series rollers just for fun



Induction will be handled by a set of Kinsler ITBs. I'm not sure what size is going to be ideal, but I have two sets to try along with some different horn lengths. I'm going to play between 57 and 62mm and see how the powerband looks. Both seem to do well on the flow bench when bolted to the head, so we will have to let the dyno decide, then head to the track and see where having the power accelerates the car harder.



I will follow this up the best I can as I go along!

-Josh

 

so much time and effort into this cant wait for the update

 

looks like its going to be a good build Itb K motors are sick

 

Going to be sick!

 

Mother of God.

 

wow...
and this is going to be a just for fun street build?
wow!

 

Power and gearing aside, I'd like to see how your car accelerates compared to Luke's due to the weight difference.

 

awesome, I read all the info but the pics dont work for me??

 

i like where you put " im not rich so i dont spend moeny where it doesnt need to be spent..... this whole build is BALLER!!!!!!....haha

 

What fuel are you using? How high do you plan on revving it? Any idea what piston speed you are going to run it to?

 

impressive indeed

 

in for results

 

i hate you.... haha crazy build bro

 

Can I borrow the H series set?

 

Ahhh the old honda TECH with extensive detailed information on a panny dropper build.

What are you using for fuel management?

 

ill take an h-series set also!

 

Straight Gangsta build!

 

Not even close. It isn't that it is super light, just that the weight is close to in the right spot and the wheelie bar helps a lot. He has only run that car with a little motor under 2.5L and he has shut it off at the 1/8th after a 1,2,3 pull and run a half second quicker than the street class record. It is just a different animal altogether. We put a big motor in there for this year so we will see. The chassis isn't ideal, it is too short and his big *** sits almost in the back of the car.

Not sure on fuel yet. That is another thing to try on the dyno. Probably E85. I want something easily obtainable so I don't have to keep drums in the garage. We have a lot of 110 at gas pumps around here also so that could work.

As for revs, I drive like an old lady so it will live a good long life. When I'm ready to get in it, I'll change gears between 10,000 and 10,300. What's that put piston speed at...around 112 feet per second.

I have K-PRO right now. We have an AEM in the Insight so switching to that could be an option so we have to only deal with one program.

 

all i can say is wow and i want that motor

im in for this build

and like said above i love the real tech and information in the thread to help people learn and do things correctly


big

 

time for a 4piston meet again..i assume!

 

wow nice parts

 

Does torque plate honing affect open deck blocks like that? I never torque plate honed any of the open deck blocks I did at school. I'm not trying to sound like a dick i'm just wondering!

The build looks sweet!

 

Sick build!

 

...................


OMG......i dont even know what to say to those pics.......look at how good that looks....


hahahahahaha.....ribbed for her pleasure......

 

Yeah, I was going to say E85 would be ideal but 110 is good too. 16:1 compression is pretty high even with a long duration cam and it definitely would detonate if you used 93 octane.

Piston speed at 10k rpm would be 6731 FPM (112 FPS). Using the formula
FPM = Stroke x RPM x .166. Thats probably about the limit those rods will want to see. Then again, this engine is not made to last 100k mi.

Using a BMEP of 195 psi I would estimate the engine will make about 360 BHP at the crank. However, I don't have experience tuning for E85 so you may achieve a higher BMEP and higher BHP. Do you know what kind of BMEP is achievable on an engine like this using E85?

At any rate, beautiful build and I am anxious to see what it does on the dyno!