OK so I put my freshly rebuilt b16 in my car. I get it started and then it idles rough and dies as soon as I gave it gas. I looked and I threw CEL 9. I replaced the dizzy and it fired right up. Idled fine and sounded great. I moved it about 10 feet then it died again. I tried to crank it up and it just kept turning over. I waited about 30 mins and fired right up again and then much like before slowly died. I tried a different engine harness and it fired up fine, but it was running extremely rough, although it didn't die. I can't seem to figure out what this is. Seeing as it started up when I replaced the harness, makes me think I just have two bad wiring harnesses. But I thought I'd give it a shot and see if anyone else has had this problem. I'm running a p28 ecu and I also ran a stock pr4 and it made no difference. Thanks in advance.

 

sounds like the same **** my hatch was doin awhile back. i sold it before i could fix it but it could be your ecu.

if its a p28, thats a single cam ecu. try a p72.

and check for the basics... mainly fuel.

 

Well it's chipped and socketed with my b16 tune, that was running fine before the rebuild. The only thing I changed was the wiring harness. I'm not using the same one I was before the rebuild. And I've checked fuel, timing and things.
Idk it's just annoying lol

 

haha naw i hear ya. im just tryin to help out... make sure your wiring harness is obd1 as well as your ecu is obd1 or obd2 for obd 2

 

Yeah it is, I appreciate it. And obd2 harness wouldn't plug to my dizzy, and the ecu wouldn't plug into the dash harness if it was obd2. Thanks for the suggestions man.

 

hmmm. im tryin to think of any other ****... im really thinkin its the p28. but whats the year of everything

 

it's a 94, and it's the same setup I previously ran, minus a new dizzy and harness.

 

Jump your car, DON'T take the cables off. Alternator may be bad or some type of issue relating to the alternator. I had this problem before. I'm too lazy to read through all the other guy's posts to see if this was already recommended, so yeah.

 

Thanks, I'll try this out in the morning.

Any other suggestions much appreciated.

 

alternator wouldnt affect idling.

 

anymore help with this?

 

that code is for the cylinder position sensor, the haynes manual tells you to check the sensor and the circuit. Could just be a short. If the car starts at all, the ecu is probably fine. They don't usually go partially bad.

 

I didn't think it'd be the ecu either. I'll check for a short today.

 

OK so when I unplugged the map sensor, it runs, just really crappy. same thing when i just unplugged the tps. any suggestions?

 

aw, that sucks..... hope you get this **** fixed, bruh.

 

me too, thanks brotha.

 

You have stated that the harness doesn't connect to the distributor? Or that you know a OBD2 wont hook up?

I never read you telling us the wire harness you used...what motor is it off? OBD of the motor? Dizzy, Alt, etc?? You should have OBD1 harness, dizzy, alt, injectors in a 94 Teggy (to make things the same and easy although there are other ways) But I do know a OBD2 Integra engine harness will help a OBD2 motor go in you OBD1 car (at least it can be done that way).

 

I know that obd2 won't hook up. I have nothing but obd1 harness/motor/ecu. The other guy brought up obd2, that's why I told him it wasn't. The only thing that is different from hen I had it running before. Is I'm using a different obd1 engine harness than I was. Which leads me to believe that's the problem. But I was trying to get some more input first.

 

There is no knock sensor hooked up either. Although I don't think that would cause this big of a problem.

 

CEL codes? Same ecu too? Virgin ECU? I'm just trying to hlep avoid you doing continuity test for the next year.

The new harness a Virgin harness too?

One option (which sucks) is to buy another VTEC OBD1 engine harness (like a D16Z6)

I bought the D16 harness used for $70 (on my B16 in my EGg) and only had to extend a few lines (VTEC and O2). Well i think it was the D15 USDM VTEC b/c my old D16Z6 had the O2 in the same place as the B16.

Pretty sure a GSR or USDM P30 harness is quiet more $$$.

 

Well the new harness isn't virgin. And the p28 is chipped, converted and socketed with my b16 basemap. But check this out, I switched the tps and map. And it did the same thing. Although I found out that it doesn't die unless I let go of the gas. It ran for about ten mins as long as I kept it at 1000rpm. Soon as I let go it died and wouldn't start until it cooled down.

 

And I'm no longer getting a CEL since I changed the dizzy.

 

The compression test read
170, 155, 160, 160

today I got to drive it for about five mins and then it did the same thing. When I unplugged the map sensor it started up and ran until the cel for it came on. Could it be a bad sensor?

 

idk if this is the problem, but my gsr wud do about the same, turns out i had a dirty throttle body, bought sum carb cleaner, sprayed the bitch n cleaned it n it was fixed, hope this helps and goodluck with ur car

 

I dont think its the MAP I checked my Helm (for B18C1...same thing) and if there's no CEL for it...they say it can be intermittent and/or wiring issue

This might not be it but maybe main relay???

What about you had a bad dizzy and now have a wrong dizzy?

Seems really weird if its 2 bad engine harnesses.

FITV and IACV were checked/cleaned?

Did you ever get the alternator checked out?