I'm new here and i've searched all over for an answer to this question, maby someone can help.
Call me crazy but I traded in my 2006 toyota Tundra 4dr with 45000mi. for a car that i fell in love with, a 2002 s2k with 71000mi. This is where the problem starts.
I bought the car yesterday and ran it pretty good for a couple of hours, never put it over about 5000 rpm (lol to scared to mess up the car). 9000 rpms just seems like a lot. Today after driving for a while it started to rev more with a lot less pull. By the time i got home you could not give it to much gas or it would rev and not go much faster. Motor runs fantastic could it be the clutch and if so could you recommend a good aftermarket? Aprox. price of repair. thanks

 

Any info would be appreciated.....Im in no way a machanic nor do I claim to be. I just like to be somewhat informed on what i need and around what the cost should be when I walk into a mechanic shop.

 

From the info you give it would seem like the clutch, hard to say for sure though as this is done through the web. If it is the clutch you can just replace it with an OEM one as they are fine for stock applications. Now if you know that you will do some type of forced induction then you should consider a stronger pressure plate and better disc now, since from the sounds of it you will not be doing the labor yourself.

 

I recommend the SPEC clutch lineup.

 

Thank you ..the car ran awesome and pulled great until this started. since getting rid of my truck for it, it is my dd. only have a five minute drive to work...if i catch a redlight..lol. parts store shows 2 different clutches. ones around 500, the other is a little over 600. After reading in the forum iI guess i need to figure in the cost of a flywheel also? Also (i dont know much about mechanix) assuming the tranny has to be dropped to make this repair, is there anything else I should consider changing while this is being done? Oil is crystal clear no dipstick discoloration like on some vehicles where they try to make you believe they kept up with oil changes. I also have all service records from very first maintenance. Car is immaculate, not quite 71000 miles on it. gave 10,000 for it. Knowing nothing about these cars Im assuming its a reasonable deal, even with having to change the clutch. Talked to the salesman and the dealership may split the cost 50/50 on the clutch kit install. Things may be looking up lol.
Thanks again.

 

The labor I think is pretty high on a clutch job. I say I think because I have the factory service manual and the steps outlined to do the job take time. I also have done my own clutch in the car and can say that certain parts of the manual can be modified or skipped if the engine is tilted instead of lowered. So the cost split should definately help out. Now the flywheel one would need to see it to make the determination if you could simply resurface it. But since you are bringing it to the dealer they may only sell you a new flywheel since the Honda service manual for the car does not give any service limits for the flywheel and states that "resurfacing of the flywheel is not recommended". The flywheels can be resurfaced it just needs to be done by a reputable machine shop that can pull the guide pins and resurface both surfaces of the flywheel to maintain the step. Here is a parts price breakdown (note these prices are not list, they are discounted but the dealer should charge you in this ballpark since you are having them do the work)

1. Pressure plate 220.00
2. Clutch disc 110.00
3. Pilot bearing 15.00
4. Throwout bearing 100.00
5. Flywheel (if you need it) 245.00

These are the minimum parts needed to do the job. With tools and a lift I would think that a dealer should be able to complete the job in 4-6 hours. So that should give you a rough idea of what it will cost.

With the milage that you have on the car I would recommend that the rear crankshaft seal be replaced while the transmission is off. Also replacing the release fork ($50) wouldn't hurt either, as there have been cases of the clutch pedal becoming rough after a clutch replacment. Many times the techs forget to grease the groove on the throwout bearing which also causes the pedal to feel rough. Another common problem is air in the slave cylinder after changing the clutch. Just keep these things in mind when you pick up the car so you know what to tell the dealer if something comes up after they change the clutch.

Good luck.

 

Oh and I forgot to mention it is possible to glaze over a clutch in this car with too many high rev slips. If this happens you could try to just drive it normally and see if the glazing will go away.

 

Thanks a lot...once again these forums have proved to be a great help. Excellent advice and knowledgeable people! Dont know what i would do without them.
I used to own a JEEP CJ7 so you can just imagine how much I used the forums...lol!!
THANKS AGAIN FOR THE GREAT ADVICE!!

 

aaah... Ok...see i never thought of this. I think im going driving...I will see if this helps. Seems like the clutch going out would be gradual, this came on very fast. And my wife did drive it before I started having this problem..possibly could have been riding the clutch??? When its cold its pretty good. seems like the moor you drive the worse it gets.

 

Will be back later to update.....Going for a drive....

 

99.99% sure its a burnt clutch.... good luck on the whole driving it to make it grab again thing..... that shouldnt work.

 

Good luck.

 

Ok... drove it for a while and it pulls great, even got the nerve to get it up to 6000 rpms and hammer on it. All I can say is DAMN I LOVE THIS CAR!!! I see now why you guys like these cars! Man at 6500 or 7000 this car turns into a BEAST! Swear to god above my nerves are still shaken...a tingle in my head. Im not gonna deny it will soon need a clutch, because if I rev and "pop" the clutch it will slip...but if I releas fully then hammer on it , it does not slip at all that I can tell. Has a steady rpm to speed increase until around 6/7000 rpm then it is just pure beast after that. I dont know what causes this...but I damn sure like it. LOL The feeling is only comparable to my 2000 1200 harley sportster when taken it from a dead stop to full throttle through the gears. I would be shaken from the rush when I get off and it was the same when I just got out of the car. I AM HOOKED...and I would spund my last dollar fixen this awesom car.
Thanks again guys. I see no need for mods but I know that will change. lol I know I can get great advise on them here...

 

it's called VTEC

 

will be googling VTEC. I gotta know more about this, as I say Im no mechanic. lol..I thought VTEC was just the name of the motor..(don't laugh to hard)

 

Just another tip for you. DON'T POP THE CLUTCH. This is not a dragster. This car was built go go around corners. If you continue to POP the clutch you will be replacing the rear diff.

 

 

here's a video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YRM_gD_tkQ

basically a way of having a pure economy engine turn into a performance motor at higher rpms.

 

thanks again for all the info. Wont argue it might need a clutch job but im wandering if I just got the clutch hot. Brought it in today and between the sales manager and I both driving it neither could get it to slip. I was driving it at the end , all the while telling him what it was doing. I got to a crossroad and instead of just dumping the clutch I started making the turn and with a smooth release and a heavy foot on the gas it boiled the tires and sent us into almost a complete 360. LMFAO I would have paid to see the look on his face again. lol I think the problem is I need to learn how to handle this car and its ways. Im thinken 4cyl.....to spin the tires requires plent of throttle and dumpen the clutch, witch I know now is no where near the case. I very much Under estimated this car. I love it more every time I take it out.
OK, without going into the motor and on the budget of a man with 5 kids...3 left at home what can I do for more HP? Cold air intake? New exhaust?
Don't tell my wife but I think I'm HOOKED?

 

A good new exhaust will cost you from $1,500, to $3,000 depending on what you are looking for

 

Backstrap welcome :]

I already like you because you don't pretend to be more intelligent on the subject than you are.

While ap1's and ap2's are different, I can tell you some similar experiences I've had.

a) Give the car a semi-decent warmup. Whenever I seem to go on a pretty cold start I have some hesitation issues. (might be from not running a proper map?)

b) There are "random hesitation while accelerating" problems with s2k's. There was even a honda service bulletin about it. Their solution? Replacing the map sensor, and... yes don't laugh... putting a zip tie around it (that's actually in the service bulletin, I almost died laughing when I printed it out to see step #3 a picture of a guy holding a zip tie).

c) When getting my oil changed I had them run a direct throttle bottle cleaner / injector cleaner. And I haven't experienced it since.

Hope some of this helps

 

The best budget intake is going to be the K&N FiPK (I love mine).

The most popular budget exhaust is probably the Invidia v4 (q300).

But, like zaakro said most "good" exhaust systems are going to be running 1200+

 

Cant say thanks enough. For someone like me (mechanicly declined) you are a godsend.
Just an update on the slipping clutch...it no longer slips. Guess I just got it hot or something, But I have burnt a half tank in the last 2 days or so and it pulls like a champ. Dont know if it matters but i dont sit at the redlight with the clutch in waiten anymore, and wife hasn't driven it. Even wrapped a couple donuts with the smoke pouren off the tires and slid a few corners....lol Think the clutch problem was me under estimating this car. I see now its not your typical 4 CYL.
Love this car!
yeah the dealer says if it starts slippen withen the next few weeks to bring it in and he will drive it. If it needs a clutch they will split the parts and labor 50/50 with me. ( I think he likes the car to) lol

 

Another note; it took me about a month to really get used to. The stock engagement on the clutch is REALLY high. It doesn't take very much effort to accidentally engage a bit. I plan on lowering my pedal a little bit to help compensate because I catch my foot getting lazy some days and resting hard.

 

yeah thats good don't hold the clutch down when you wait for a light. its better on your clutch and transmission