I searched this but I could find anything on toe in problems, even though I swear I have seen soemthing on this before. I have rear disc from a 91 teg on my 89 DX hatch, and the rear wheels are ever so slightly pointed inboard. I had it aligned and the guy said he had them adjusted as mutch as he could. Any help is greatly appreciatted.

 

You probably removed the bolt labeled, do not remove.

 

I didn't do the swap, the guy who had it before me did. Even if it was removed it would of been able to be corrected when I had it aligned.

 

i had the same problem with my 90 hatch with 92 teg rd's. i never fixed the problem because i sold the car a month later. looking at the picture, i was wondering if the compensator are on the integ is the same length, as the civic one may be a bit shorter. Check it out....maybe you can check part numbers or something and see if it the same # let us know what you find out. Antone

 

What happens if you do remove that bolt in the pic?

 

I had this problem when I installed the whole rear set-up from a 91 Teg. Too include the compensator arm from the 91 Teg. I fixed it when I installed the stock compensator arms from my rear HF set-up. So yeah there it is you must use the stock ED compensator arm.

Bryan

 

Yep, use all the stock arms and upper arms from the rex.

 

Thanks alot, I will correct this soon....

 

fourthgenhatch,
removing that bolt doesnt matter.. if you have it aligned they're going to loosen that bolt to adjust the link in or out..

anyway.. anyone come up with a real solution?

we have a 91 dx hatch, swapping in the 91 integra trailing arms..
we've measured all the links.. LCA, camber link and toe link... they all measure exactly the same as the original ones that came with the dx hatch..
everything went together flawlessly.. ebrake cables from tegra went in no hassels.. etc.. brake lines np.. etc.. but the Toe is horrendous.. both sides toe way in.. i have some adjustable toe links on my EG hatch we're gonna try on my buddys EF hatch..but in reality the stock toe links need to be like an inch longer..to have proper toe.

 

your problem is definately the compensator arms.
Use the civic compensator arms.
They're about 1 inch shoter than the integra ones.
Get civic compensator arms and get an alignment.
I'm 100% sure about this. Happened to me too.

 

umm.. if i shorten the compensator arm (toe link)
it will toe the hub in even farther..

 

nice thread

 

haha thanks for the help, i needed to know this too i just left those compensators unbolted becaus they were bitches

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm.. if i shorten the compensator arm (toe link)
it will toe the hub in even farther..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not even gonna go into detail.
It's the compensator arms like i said before.
Trust me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 hb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not even gonna go into detail.
It's the compensator arms like i said before.
Trust me</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, this is definitely the problem (i speak from personal experience). replace the teg c-arms with the stock ones and you'll be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yup, this is definitely the problem (i speak from personal experience). replace the teg c-arms with the stock ones and you'll be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same problem. I believe the upper arm from the integra is longer and the compensator arm is shorter. Replace those with your stock ones and you'll be set.

 

and the teg LCA is 1/16" longer.

 

well to humor all you guys, i'm gonna try the toe link (conpensator arm).. i'll post my findings

 

well you guys are right.. but wrong too..
the EF compensator arm (toe link) is bout 1"1/8th LONGER (not shorter) than the DA ..

 

just use all EF control arms w/ a teg trailing arm.

 

you can use the DA trailing arm and LCA. You must use the EF compensator arm or you will notice the trailing arm rubbing on the body. ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hahagasdcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can use the DA trailing arm and LCA. You must use the EF compensator arm or you will notice the trailing arm rubbing on the body. ..</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you use the TEG LCA, the camber will be greater.

 

so many stories and myths about this. my current setup that i just had on the alignment rack saturday and it aligned out to factory spec with ease.

rear
92 da trailing arms
92 da lca's
92 da uca
ed6 comp. arm

the issue i had was really nasty toe prior to aligning. this was due to the fact that i removed the complete drum trailing arm assembly from the car including the compensator arms to measure and assemble all of the pieces to find out what was actually going to work so i would not need to change unnecesary components.

after alignment all was well and i had it dialed to factory spec simply using a pry bar and a little pb blaster to get the compensator arm to slide.

up front--here is the goofy ish.

92 da knuckles
91 ed6 uca, lca
energy bushings
new tie rods (ed6)

EVERYTHING ALIGNED RIGHT. no camber issues from running the teg knuckle-no camber kit used...all factory parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kylefakesi-r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so many stories and myths about this. my current setup that i just had on the alignment rack saturday and it aligned out to factory spec with ease.

rear
92 da trailing arms
92 da lca's
92 da uca
ed6 comp. arm

the issue i had was really nasty toe prior to aligning. this was due to the fact that i removed the complete drum trailing arm assembly from the car including the compensator arms to measure and assemble all of the pieces to find out what was actually going to work so i would not need to change unnecesary components.

after alignment all was well and i had it dialed to factory spec simply using a pry bar and a little pb blaster to get the compensator arm to slide.

up front--here is the goofy ish.

92 da knuckles
91 ed6 uca, lca
energy bushings
new tie rods (ed6)

EVERYTHING ALIGNED RIGHT. no camber issues from running the teg knuckle-no camber kit used...all factory parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I find it hard to believe you don't have any camber issues.
Are you saying your camber/toe is factory spec?
Toe is easy to get to factory spec. Adjust tie rods (front), c-arms (rear)
There is no way to adjust camber w/o camber kit.
I know about the washer method in the rear.
You should have some slight neg camber.
I got the same setup. I have some.
Are you saying you don't have camber or you don't have issues w/the camber that you should have?
Please clear this up for me.

 

camber is within factory specs...most cars are not set at 0 degrees but rather at about -1 so that they handle better. when i aligned my car (i did it as i am a technician) i found that with these components used the car aligned to factory specs/within allowable tolerances.

you may find it hard to believe yourself but if you want you can come and watch me line the car up or you can use the exact combo of parts that i used and you will have the same results.