What mods should I start with on Z6? Opinions wanted!!
Hey guys, here's the deal. I have a 95 eg coupe with stock D16z6. I'm slowly getting all my stuff for my turbo build because I want to wait it out and make sure I have everything I need to do it right all at once. Buttt, its gonna be a while before that will be ready, so until then I want a fun amount of power, without having to do too much readjustment for turbo setup. So far i have a ebay intake, and 2.5" cat back, which was already on it when i bought it. 177k but good compression and runs awesome. I'm thinking I want to put a decent header and cat delete, and I'm thinking a good size cam, slightly bigger injectors and a chip and tune. I need opinions and suggestions though! Not looking for mad power just a little more pep. Thanks!
Last edited by turbodtaylor; Feb 26, 2010 at 11:35 AM. Reason: power goal change
cat delete - will only increase noise and attract cops. Install a resonator in it's place and it's minimal noise increase but still marginal increase in power. (1-2hp max)
header - throwing money away unless you can get a used one and resell it when you go turbo.
Cam - be careful with cam selection, you may actually loose power in the long run if it's wrong for boost.
injectors - needed when you boost, but not right now.
Buy a wideband and learn to tune.(best investment ever)
also, 175whp is not going to happen without boost or SERIOUS N/A mods. Stock for the Z6 is 125hp at the crank, so figure around 100-105whp.
To give you an idea of the magnitude of your goal, a stock ITR makes around 175whp.
With boost and well tuned you should be able to get to the 175-200whp range.
header - throwing money away unless you can get a used one and resell it when you go turbo.
Cam - be careful with cam selection, you may actually loose power in the long run if it's wrong for boost.
injectors - needed when you boost, but not right now.
Buy a wideband and learn to tune.(best investment ever)
also, 175whp is not going to happen without boost or SERIOUS N/A mods. Stock for the Z6 is 125hp at the crank, so figure around 100-105whp.
To give you an idea of the magnitude of your goal, a stock ITR makes around 175whp.
With boost and well tuned you should be able to get to the 175-200whp range.
Thanks alot! I know widebands and standalones are nuts, my classmate that I work with has flashpro on his 09 Si and he can cook up some crazy tunes, car is bone stock other than that and you see large increases! Thats what I was thinking was a eBay header or nice used one, gotta save up for a ramhorn lol. I plan on changing the cam to a turbo cam when I boost it so thats why i'm not looking to spend big $ just want something to make my car a little quicker until boost is ready. Looking to make around 250-275 on turbo but not until I put together a built engine for a good amount of boost specifically.
Trending Topics
A cam without to much valve overlap, a cam gear, springs and retainers. DIY detonation can, wide band O2 , tunable ecu read up on tuning, porting pay to have it done or read up on how to do it and practice on a junk head (don't go crazy and don't stay in one spot to long with the rotary tool).
and most important RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH!!! (don't just buy whats popular find out what makes it good and if it fits your build)
welfarepc gives good advise knows his stuff check out his build
good luck
and most important RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH!!! (don't just buy whats popular find out what makes it good and if it fits your build)
welfarepc gives good advise knows his stuff check out his build
good luck
Thats why I threw that number out there I wanted to know what I'd be looking at. I'll be happy with whatever gains I get I just want to know what to expect.
if you plan on an all motor build, balanced internals and high compression are your game. which CAN BE more expensive than a boost setup and end up with less horsepower than if you were to boost. BUT, if you insist,
-mill the head down to its service limit (raises compression),
-bore the block .50 over (raises displacement)(service limit)
-high compression pistons: most common is the PM7/P29s because you can usually find a set cheaper than aftermarket and they are cast which is DD safe.
-high flow (which means no ebay crap) header will gain power as long as there is something done to the motor that increased / sped up the exhaust volume such as camshaft, higher compression.
-twin or even triple plate clutch. i assume it goes without saying, the harder your clutch grabs, the more power makes it to the wheels. of course this also adds stress on your gears, and CV shafts.
-Individual throttle bodies (ITBs) increases engine response remarkably when tuned right. i advise you have a plastic or carbon fiber surge tank made specifically for your setup, connected to a CAI type of air tube. otherwise you will pick up nothing but hot air and not making that extra HP you could have with a denser charge. and remember, with an N/A setup, every little bit counts.
-dry sump oil system is the most expensive upgrade i can think of right now but it does make a helluva difference compaired to an enlarged oilpan. basically it makes power by decreasing friction of the crank and rods.
-micropolish crankshaft. not going to produce any noticable power, but it will decrease friction.
-front mount oil cooler, if your a track guy, thats gonna keep your power from fading when driven hard over long periods of time.
-at this time it is advised you upgrade your fuel pump, fuel filter, and injectors to deliver the fuel needed to gain a healthy A/F ratio which was screwed as soon as the ITBs were installed.
-as somebody already mentioned, wideband/stand alone engine control. at this time you will be able to harness the ability to change, fine tune your ECU settings to squeaze every little pony out of your machine.
there is more you can do but this should cover most of it. most of these are not really great for a street machine and should not be daily driven like so lol, as well as they are by no means cheap. just throwing it out there. i have faith that a D16 could make it to 225whp. in fact, its been done before and was done with carburetors instead of ITBs. its gonna take alot of time and money.
-mill the head down to its service limit (raises compression),
-bore the block .50 over (raises displacement)(service limit)
-high compression pistons: most common is the PM7/P29s because you can usually find a set cheaper than aftermarket and they are cast which is DD safe.
-high flow (which means no ebay crap) header will gain power as long as there is something done to the motor that increased / sped up the exhaust volume such as camshaft, higher compression.
-twin or even triple plate clutch. i assume it goes without saying, the harder your clutch grabs, the more power makes it to the wheels. of course this also adds stress on your gears, and CV shafts.
-Individual throttle bodies (ITBs) increases engine response remarkably when tuned right. i advise you have a plastic or carbon fiber surge tank made specifically for your setup, connected to a CAI type of air tube. otherwise you will pick up nothing but hot air and not making that extra HP you could have with a denser charge. and remember, with an N/A setup, every little bit counts.
-dry sump oil system is the most expensive upgrade i can think of right now but it does make a helluva difference compaired to an enlarged oilpan. basically it makes power by decreasing friction of the crank and rods.
-micropolish crankshaft. not going to produce any noticable power, but it will decrease friction.
-front mount oil cooler, if your a track guy, thats gonna keep your power from fading when driven hard over long periods of time.
-at this time it is advised you upgrade your fuel pump, fuel filter, and injectors to deliver the fuel needed to gain a healthy A/F ratio which was screwed as soon as the ITBs were installed.
-as somebody already mentioned, wideband/stand alone engine control. at this time you will be able to harness the ability to change, fine tune your ECU settings to squeaze every little pony out of your machine.
there is more you can do but this should cover most of it. most of these are not really great for a street machine and should not be daily driven like so lol, as well as they are by no means cheap. just throwing it out there. i have faith that a D16 could make it to 225whp. in fact, its been done before and was done with carburetors instead of ITBs. its gonna take alot of time and money.
Last edited by helldriver88; Feb 26, 2010 at 11:03 AM.
I saved this in case I ever do an n/a build, but for now I'm just looking for a little more pep out of her lol, maybe a few more revs and rev a little faster thats why so far i'm thinking mild cam and springs and retainers and a better exhaust for like you said just a little more flow, my work is attached to an engine machine shop I was thinking about maybe a 3 angle valve job too because they can do it cheap, but right.
I saved this in case I ever do an n/a build, but for now I'm just looking for a little more pep out of her lol, maybe a few more revs and rev a little faster thats why so far i'm thinking mild cam and springs and retainers and a better exhaust for like you said just a little more flow, my work is attached to an engine machine shop I was thinking about maybe a 3 angle valve job too because they can do it cheap, but right.
i just did a 55 wet shot it def made a difference..but ima go 75 and see about a tune..
should be enough for me while im trying to go to college
should be enough for me while im trying to go to college
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





