I need more power... Not happy with my B18C... Need suggestions
Here is my set up:
98 4dr gsr
98 Spec JDM type r B18C around 90k miles
CTR pistons (the rest of the internals are all stock)
Fujita Short ram
Hytech tri y replica
no cat
Greddy sp2 Exhaust
RC 310cc injectors
Aem adjustable fuel pressure regulator
B16A tranny
Quaife LSD
Fidanza lightweight flywheel with ACT Clutch and Pressure Plate
type r shift linkage and oem short throw shifter.
OBD2>OBD1 harness with chipped P28
Tein SS coilovers
Benen front and rear strut bars
Rota GT3 16's with BFGoodrich G-force sport tires
Hawk Brake pads and power slot rotors all around
I just did a compression test and it came out 275-270-270-275 if that helps. The car put down 179whp and 130 ft lbs and ran a 14.3 at 96 mph. I don't really want to do anything to the bottom end. I have been thinking turbo but i dont know if its safe with that high of compression. I want to be around the 220-240whp mark. help me out.
98 4dr gsr
98 Spec JDM type r B18C around 90k miles
CTR pistons (the rest of the internals are all stock)
Fujita Short ram
Hytech tri y replica
no cat
Greddy sp2 Exhaust
RC 310cc injectors
Aem adjustable fuel pressure regulator
B16A tranny
Quaife LSD
Fidanza lightweight flywheel with ACT Clutch and Pressure Plate
type r shift linkage and oem short throw shifter.
OBD2>OBD1 harness with chipped P28
Tein SS coilovers
Benen front and rear strut bars
Rota GT3 16's with BFGoodrich G-force sport tires
Hawk Brake pads and power slot rotors all around
I just did a compression test and it came out 275-270-270-275 if that helps. The car put down 179whp and 130 ft lbs and ran a 14.3 at 96 mph. I don't really want to do anything to the bottom end. I have been thinking turbo but i dont know if its safe with that high of compression. I want to be around the 220-240whp mark. help me out.
With the whp you have listed I would start looking at a 2.0ltr set-up at around 12:1 compression. Get your head PnP'd add a Performer X IM and Skunk2 Pro 2 cams. Maybe a full 2.5" exhaust.
But since you want to keep the bottem end the same you won't make 240whp maybe the 220whp. With enough work on the head, the PX IM, larger TB and a 3" intake with a V-stack and the Pro 2 cams.
But since you want to keep the bottem end the same you won't make 240whp maybe the 220whp. With enough work on the head, the PX IM, larger TB and a 3" intake with a V-stack and the Pro 2 cams.
probly wont break 200 with a stock bottom end and pro2s is way to big of a cam with ctr pistons. well do you have oversized ctrs or std bore? thatll help too
the skunk pro cams in general are really hard on valve guides. the endyn bumpstix are almost always a better choice. i would not all be surprised to see a 20hp gain with a set of bumpstix, the VT and a 9500rpm redline.
there are a few threads in all motor with dynos of the pro 1s, 2s and bumpstix with different combos.
a port job on the head and on the intake manifold {stock or a performer x} could yeild a few more hp still. the pr3 and p72 heads are actually really easy to port yourself if you have even slight experience with head porting.
there are a few threads in all motor with dynos of the pro 1s, 2s and bumpstix with different combos.
a port job on the head and on the intake manifold {stock or a performer x} could yeild a few more hp still. the pr3 and p72 heads are actually really easy to port yourself if you have even slight experience with head porting.
yeah pro 2's are a bit much... but a proformer X intake mani., 68mm TB, 310cc injectors, pro 1 cams, light port job, should get ya into the 200's...
not to mention a good tune
not to mention a good tune
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works great around 10:1 up to 11:1 on pump gas. with your compression you'll want race gas and experiment with colder plugs, at least 7s if not 8s or 9s depending on the shot you use. if you just drag race the stuff is a cheap way to go fast. make sure you tune on the bottle when you reflash. in fact 2 maps in something like an s300 would be the way to go so you have a on bottle and off timing and fuel map. the #1 way to fry an engine on NAWZ is to have too much timing or go too lean.
head work(pnp) and exhaust upgrade. also, 4dr integras are heavy azz hell. so lose some weight. cuz if that motor was in a hatch it prob break high 13s.
boost is the way to go for power!
boost is the way to go for power!
What kind of exhaust upgrade? Do you think it's safe boosting a motor with that high of a cr?
110 octane would be mandatory, might run on e85. street gas would be out of the question. CTR pistons are more or less the largest dome available for a b series. i can't remember what CR they create on a pr3 head and b18c bottom end but it should be right in that 12:1 range. not at all a CR that favors boost. it's more of a motor that would pick up with pro 1s or the jun3 based bumpstix
I just don't think im going to be happy with the power gains if i do cams. what is involved with running e85? different plugs and a new tune or is there more to it? thanks for the help btw.
What if I put a really thick head gasket in there and run e85 and 6 or 7 lbs of boost? how safe would that be?
1) ctr pistons are crap.
2) Nitrous will be your next bet, I have a setup for my b20vtec which is fully built running around 12.8CR on pump gas. It will be a wet setup. Oh, daily driven too.
Nitrous is the cheapest thing u could do.. but get rid of the ctr pistons.. if you dont wanna get rid of the CTR pistons.. You need to valvetrain/CAM upgrade big time, that should yield some nice results for you, but I'd look into redoing your whole exhaust/ header setup.
2) Nitrous will be your next bet, I have a setup for my b20vtec which is fully built running around 12.8CR on pump gas. It will be a wet setup. Oh, daily driven too.
Nitrous is the cheapest thing u could do.. but get rid of the ctr pistons.. if you dont wanna get rid of the CTR pistons.. You need to valvetrain/CAM upgrade big time, that should yield some nice results for you, but I'd look into redoing your whole exhaust/ header setup.
^^ you know why he's referring to CTR pistons as crap right? it's the flame in the chamber. the dome design of the ctr piston is no where near as efficient as the itr or pr3 piston. this whole build is going to be a trade off game. i mean you have cast {i assume} ctr domes which you can't run an efficient map all motor on pump gas, too much timing has to come out in order to keep it from detonating. so, if you want the engine efficient and making peak power, we're already talking 100 octane. now we're on to nitrous. this **** is a grand slam in the chamber if ever there was one, *** tons of oxygen get dumped in there since nitrous is like negative some number degrees. this means huge bang in a motor that already has timing pulled or is on race gas. so, now we're at 110 octane and you dyno tune with maybe 8 {wild guess} degrees of timing pulled off the top and retarded a few deg the whole way down to idle. then you make multiple passes on the dyno with a tuner who can add timing until a safe point is established. of course this means you HAVE to be on 110 to run nitrous. you could try e85 and do it similar. real gas like elf or vp will make more power though. the whole problem i see with all these ideas is basically what that paragraph goes over. timing and fuel are the issues at hand.
if it were my car? what would i do?
well the CTR pistons would come out and a forged mahle 10:1 piston would go in, then a turbo setup would be designed. i say this because i assume we're making a drag race car. every go fast in the 1/4 honda i have ever seen has one thing in common, a turbo.............or you could do lots of nitrous, i just like the daily driven aspect of boost being around.
if it were my car? what would i do?
well the CTR pistons would come out and a forged mahle 10:1 piston would go in, then a turbo setup would be designed. i say this because i assume we're making a drag race car. every go fast in the 1/4 honda i have ever seen has one thing in common, a turbo.............or you could do lots of nitrous, i just like the daily driven aspect of boost being around.
im in the same boat, gsr with bolt ons, ctr cams, its nice, im building b20 block right now ycp 84mm 11.8.1 cr, eagle rods
^^ you know why he's referring to CTR pistons as crap right? it's the flame in the chamber. the dome design of the ctr piston is no where near as efficient as the itr or pr3 piston. this whole build is going to be a trade off game. i mean you have cast {i assume} ctr domes which you can't run an efficient map all motor on pump gas, too much timing has to come out in order to keep it from detonating. so, if you want the engine efficient and making peak power, we're already talking 100 octane. now we're on to nitrous. this **** is a grand slam in the chamber if ever there was one, *** tons of oxygen get dumped in there since nitrous is like negative some number degrees. this means huge bang in a motor that already has timing pulled or is on race gas. so, now we're at 110 octane and you dyno tune with maybe 8 {wild guess} degrees of timing pulled off the top and retarded a few deg the whole way down to idle. then you make multiple passes on the dyno with a tuner who can add timing until a safe point is established. of course this means you HAVE to be on 110 to run nitrous. you could try e85 and do it similar. real gas like elf or vp will make more power though. the whole problem i see with all these ideas is basically what that paragraph goes over. timing and fuel are the issues at hand.
if it were my car? what would i do?
well the CTR pistons would come out and a forged mahle 10:1 piston would go in, then a turbo setup would be designed. i say this because i assume we're making a drag race car. every go fast in the 1/4 honda i have ever seen has one thing in common, a turbo.............or you could do lots of nitrous, i just like the daily driven aspect of boost being around.
if it were my car? what would i do?
well the CTR pistons would come out and a forged mahle 10:1 piston would go in, then a turbo setup would be designed. i say this because i assume we're making a drag race car. every go fast in the 1/4 honda i have ever seen has one thing in common, a turbo.............or you could do lots of nitrous, i just like the daily driven aspect of boost being around.
Good reply.
turbo or supercharging is doable on your set up with a very good tuner. i used to have an identical set up to yours just a sleeved block but ctr pistons oversized pistons flat faced valves and pro2 cams running 10 pounds on pump gas daily driver. it possible just need a good and i mean not omeone you thinks good someone you know thats good at tuning
for 220-240 whp I would pull the ctr pistons and put a 10:1 CR or lower (your choice) forged pistons and throw in a small turbo like a garrett GT2860RS aka disco potato or GT2871R. fast spool up with awesome top end power, great for the daily driver and occasionally strip duties. just look at the edelbrock turbo kit for the b18c1 it will do 220-240 whp easily at 6-7 psi. I would make my own setup instead of paying for that pricey kit (most complete kit though)...unless you got the money then splurge on it
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