alright guys, i jus got my first build done... big uPs to ht and helms, thUmbs up*... i've gotten my gsr running for a few weeks now(4-500miles), runs and idle good.. jus got it state referee and barred today.. now my issue is smog, ca is all wAck now so ref only does inspection and no longer smog vehicles..

passes fine with flyN colors at 2500rpm, but at idles. it jus sky rocket as it sits. attach is a copy of my test result. if im in the wrong section, please direct me else where.

swap/build includes;
-01 gsr bottom end with 01 trans
-95 head(with 95' cam cap, rockers)
-arp head studs
-arp connecting rod bolts.
-skunk2 stage1 tuner camshafts
-skunk2 pro series im(w/ hondata im gasket)
-aem v2
-dc 4-1 carb headers
-apexi w2 catback(first gen)
-os usdm itr piston(oem os rings)
-balance and micro polish crank(01 crank w/ 01 rods)
-itr dual valve springs on intake&exhaust
-itr intake valves(stock 01 gsr exhaust valves)
-timing set at 16 +-2
-spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, new magna hi-flow cat, etc all have been replace..
-all gaskets, seals, oring, etc that needed to be replace and recommended in the helms has been all oem replaced...




here is some of the options off the top of my head and will be checking, today has been a long day..
-fuel pump(still the orginal civic one, im to change it out)
-injectors(oem 01 gsr's, i modded eM to fit)
-map sensor o'ring seal(replace, may have some kinda of air leak)
-need to check fuel pressure...
-compression check(have not yet done it since build..)

 

Alcohol in the gas works wonders.

 

CONGRATS JEFF

you are now legit...LOL! my turn in March. hit me up sometimes bro.

 

phil m-i don't about the alcohol in the gas tank, but it will be a last resort before i do attempt to try that..
lthao61-yEp, finally leget; jus gotta get it smog now.! hAhAaa.. let me know when your puttN work to yours.!

any other inputs guys.? i'll start test and messN with the civic when i get off from work..

 

Whats up man? First thing I would HIGHLY reccomend is that you ditch those wires. I know you don't want to hear that, but OEM wires are probably the best thing you can have on there besides the NGK's. How new/old are those plugs? What are they gapped to? What heat range are they?

Also, your missing the A/C mount. While you don't have A/C in the car you should still have this mount as its a torque mount. Very important.

 

wassup hybrid96ek! thanks for your response. lols, those were wires i got with some parts i bought. so while they were being thrown in and with them being new; i said why not(msd 8.5, overkill size; i know! hahaa..).! ehehe.. i would rather ngk tho to be honest.

plugs are new, ngk iridium.. i've heard and read that ngk's are always pre-gap from factory and i've never had to gap any ngk ever since i've been in the automotive work force(7yrs).. but it wouldn't hurt to check the gap.. i jus got off from work and imma do a compression test.. so while im at it, i will check my gap and get back to ht here..

when i got the motor, it never came with any of the two side mounts there.. im still in the process of looking for a decent/fair set.. if not then, imma have to go buy some aftermarket ones... know any good aftermarket ones, by any chance.?!?! thanks for the headS up on the two side mount there, and for noticing.!! :D

 

Might be a dumb questions but have you had it tuned???

 

93egsleeper, lols; its not a dumb question and no.. i have not had it tune yet.. i wanted to ref/smog first before that.. plus, my tags been due and its kinda of a pain to get a moving pass from the dmv.. i've gotten a x1 day moving pass from the dmv already when i had my car ref. but imma have to ask them how much a month pass is and actually buy one...

that was a questions i've been pondering bout too.. tuning it before or after...!??!

 

No, not all the NGK's are pre gapped. Depends on the ones you go. Iridiums however you cannot gap. Iridiums wouldn't be my first choice, but certainly not too bad. You will make more power with a copper plug however.

Since you are OBD-1 you do have the option to chip the ECU and remove fuel from the idle section. While this may not make you pass since you are a gross polluter, it WILL help in reducing the HC at idle. If you need it chipped, hit me up. When you want to tune it, hit me up. Im local to you and I am sure I can do something for you cheaper then most shops.

 

lols. hahaa... yea man, i think; i am gonna need a chip from yA bro... bIg uPs for lettN me know..

sadly, i've gotten ngk iridums.. i just checked my plug gAps and their:
#1 plugs-0.043
#2 plugs-0.043
#3 plugs-0.042
#4 plugs-0.041
their in order as they came out from each cylinder.. i checked helms and their spec is 0.047-0.051 for gsr's... so if im to helms spec, im actually under spec... lucky, I got a new set of ngk v-power extra.. lUcky me.! Ehehe..

i jus did a compression test.. i dUnno if i should drive it more or what not but my numbers weren't as steady across as i was hoping.. jus a harbor freight compression gauge tho(I don’t think it really matters. Now does it.!?!?)... I was thinking that maybe my piston rings haven’t sealed completely yet causing my smog to fail, being my hc was so high at idle… but at 2500, it passes fine tho.!?!?
#1-220
#2-190
#3-190
#4-220
That’s a freakN 30compression difference.. I think its suppose to be around 20compression min..

Jus curious, anyone know the spec on spark plugs wires continuity.!?!? I tried looking in the helms but haven’t found it yet..

 

oh yea.. all plugs were lightly white except for #1 plug, which was a brownish color... white means lean, blk means rich... the smog guy did say that im running lean for my HC to be so high at idle..

 

You don't gap iridiums, so don't try. Put the coppers in there. Trust me on this one.

The compression numbers aren't horrible. Did you unplug the distributor? Did you have the throttle wide open? Did you do even number of cranks or just crank until it quit rising?

Your HC is high most likely from a lean misfire. I wouldn't go too much by the plugs though to tell you if its lean/rich. Remember, you changed the compression and the cams and you are most likely on a stock ECU. This isn't going to work very well.

 

Should of put my gsr motor in to get it ref'd then throw in urs n got it tuned

lol. Good luck with the smog tho bro. What's crackin Saturday? Fugu lounge (sorry off topic. Lol

 

Lols.. glad I didn’t gap eM iriduums, thanks.. I was looking at the palladium and thinking wtf* how I can even gap these suckA.. lols.. you don't, thats why..

Nah’uh.. I didn’t unplug the distributor.. I had it wot tho.. five cranks only.. yea, compression was bumped up a bit from the build, with mild cams, running off a stock ecu.. it runs, but on how well its running.. I can’t really say until an actual tune..

I was leaning towards my fuel pump a tab tho.. I don’t remember exactly what the numbers were, but the d16z6(my stock fuel pump) is differ from a gsr.. I was thinking if my old fuel pump is actually keeping up with the new 1.8l..

 

lthao61, hAhAa.. i dunno bout sat.. haven't been to fugu lounge in awhile now tho.. is it still crackN there.!?!?

 

No, the stock Civic isn't the same as the Integra pump... and to answer your question, no, it won't keep up with the demands of the GSR engine. I learned that on the dyno as well. You could watch the fuel pressure drop when Vtec came on. It was literally going to 10-20psi for me. Anyways, this was in the higher rpm range, not the lower points where you are being tested for smog. Its obviously able to keep up at 2,500rpms, not at idle though. I still think you have a misfire which I would rack up to the plugs and the wires.

Don't do the compression test again without disconnecting the dist plugs. AT LEAST the two wire plug or you WILL cook the coil.

 

i'll order in some ngk wires and see how those goes. and yea, i'll disconnect the dizzy wires next time for a compression test..

 

I just realized my last response was stupid. I meant your pump doesn't appear to be the problem since its fine at 2,500rpms but not at idle. 2,500rpms = higher load and more demand for fuel. I would however get an Integra pump and replace the Civic crap one, you will need it with the GSR engine.

 

yea, a new fuel pump is on the "to buy list".. lols.. im still looking and reading on different fuel pump makes, on which one would be a best buy... any personal recommendations.?

i was reading a bit bout spark plugs too in details.. if im not mistaken, a larger gap means a longer spark.. but i will need a better ignition system to suffice the ignite power.. the shorter gap, the more easier for spark to jump and not as long of a spark.?.. clarification anyone.?

 

If you are staying all motor then get an Integra pump. Cheap and effective. The Walbro pumps are noisy as hell and will overwelm your stock regulator... requiring the use of something like the AEM regulator with adjustable return orfices in order to compensate for the high volume of fuel.

More gap means a hotter, more intense spark... but only to a point like you mentioned. Then it becomes an issue of the ignition system not being able to support it. 1.1mm is the stock gap for standard NGK's. The only time I have ever changed the gap was when I was running boost. The stock Honda ignition system has been proven time and time agian. Stick with stock or NGK wires and NGK plugs and you won't have any issues/worries.

 

i was curious and wanted some clarification.. i had the ngk v-power and they were under helm's spec for the gsr.. so i had to re-gap em.. im curous if it had anything to do with my emissions.? my under the hood decal for my civic was 1.1mm for plug gap, i think it was when i was looking at it last night..

yea, i've read alot about walbro pump and their noise! haha.. thanks for the input.!

 

GSR should also call for 1.1mm gap. It would depend on the plugs you bought. Not all NGK's are pregapped... as indicated by the part number.

 

I'm local to u I'm in Roseville... If u don't have to smog at the ref anymore what do u do there to get it barred... I got an eg w a gsr in it and I need to get mine reffed.. I would appreciate it if u can tell me what all I have to do there.. Thanks

 

All you have to do is pass visual ie everything is hooked up like a stock gsr would be. bare minimum they will check the ecu part#. also if you have a intake or header make sure its carb legal for the integra gsr not a civic.

 

94 EG gsr- jus like "mshake" said, just be sure to have everything hooked up properly as if a stock gsr would from factory... they will mOSdEf pop your carpet and look at you ecu if its the correct one. make sure that the carb number of any after market parts matches the same engineswapped..! any carb number needs to match same year/make/model as the engine swapped.

*As of January 2009, you gotta get a cat with numbers/lettering's at least an inch big and carb approve for the same engine as swapped..