poor mans r
i have the ITR head and CTR cams and was wondering if i get the gsr block and put type r pistons in it, it would yeild the same numbers as the type r engine. Would the type r internals on the gsr block be the only thing? Since its a gsr block (1.8) would i have to tap my head like a ls/vtec? cuz i kinda wouldnt want to do that. thanks
i have the ITR head and CTR cams and was wondering if i get the gsr block and put type r pistons in it, it would yeild the same numbers as the type r engine. Would the type r internals on the gsr block be the only thing? Since its a gsr block (1.8) would i have to tap my head like a ls/vtec? cuz i kinda wouldnt want to do that. thanks
I bet about the same power but not reliability. keep in mind the itr rods are lighter and stronger the itr crankshaft is a little heavier but has additional weights that help the balance and reduce vibration by about 20% over the gsr.
the JDM itr uses the p72 block like the gsr.
the JDM itr uses the p72 block like the gsr.
I bet about the same power but not reliability. keep in mind the itr rods are lighter and stronger the itr crankshaft is a little heavier but has additional weights that help the balance and reduce vibration by about 20% over the gsr.
the JDM itr uses the p72 block like the gsr.
the JDM itr uses the p72 block like the gsr.
To say 10.8:1CR will make more power then 11.5:1CR later down the road with better cams and supporting mods is wrong. And to say its not as reliable is wrong as well.
when did I ever say high compression wouldn't make more power? that's right I didn't. I would use p30 or pr3 over the US A0 itr pistons myself. but that not what he was asking he was asking if it would make about the same as a itr
as far as who care about rods and crankshaft
I would care if I had a few thousand dollars spinning around at 9000 rpms
I care more about making power that lasts then just making power.
lighter rods generally have less chance of spinning a rod bearing
and 20% less vibration = happyer bearings
as far as who care about rods and crankshaft
I would care if I had a few thousand dollars spinning around at 9000 rpms
I care more about making power that lasts then just making power.
lighter rods generally have less chance of spinning a rod bearing
and 20% less vibration = happyer bearings
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i used the p72 block( jdmb18c) and a pr3 head love the result lots of power over my jdm b16a. my pistons are the pr3 only caz i forgot that my p30s are the high compression ones maybe down the road ill change them. but give the head a mild port and polish u will love the result and lighten flywheel. it was like i went from a sohc vtec to a type r overnight when i was done my build.
thank you all for the input. are the p30s ITR,ctr or just b16a. Bc i just wanted to get the type r pistons in my b16a2 block but i heard you gotta chop the rods or something like that...
You've got a lot of numbers and stuff mixed up here man, you really need to do a bit more reading. P30 pistons are just b16 pistons. Itr pistons (usdm or jdm, p73-a00 and p73-000 respectively) actually have smaller domes on them than the p30's and will lower the compression of a b16a. You don't have to change the rods for any. You just use the right rods for the right block.
You also don't "chop" a connecting rod, you replace it with one of the correct length.
For a 1.8l motor, start with a stock rod. Deburr, shot-peen, and add arp rod bolts as mentioned above. Once you get them all matched up while balancing your rotating assembly you'll have more than enough rod for a mildly built street motor. Mine spins to 8800-9100 all day and has always been smooth as butter.
Who told you this?
2000 gsr rod = 13210-P73-000 = 2000 itr rod
There was a p72 rod in earlier gsr's but those earlier c5's also had p72 rods iirc, and the numbers have long since superceded to the current number.
Be careful with the spreading of the Hype-R myths!
You also don't "chop" a connecting rod, you replace it with one of the correct length.
For a 1.8l motor, start with a stock rod. Deburr, shot-peen, and add arp rod bolts as mentioned above. Once you get them all matched up while balancing your rotating assembly you'll have more than enough rod for a mildly built street motor. Mine spins to 8800-9100 all day and has always been smooth as butter.
Who told you this?
2000 gsr rod = 13210-P73-000 = 2000 itr rod
There was a p72 rod in earlier gsr's but those earlier c5's also had p72 rods iirc, and the numbers have long since superceded to the current number.
Be careful with the spreading of the Hype-R myths!
There is a lot of incorrect information in this thread. Piston dome being more or less than another piston is one thing but compression height of the piston is another and often overlooked by people. A piston with a higher compression height and smaller dome can often yield greater compression and better flame travel than another piston with more dome and lower compression height. ITR pistons are usually the better choice IMHO.
You've got a lot of numbers and stuff mixed up here man, you really need to do a bit more reading. P30 pistons are just b16 pistons. Itr pistons (usdm or jdm, p73-a00 and p73-000 respectively) actually have smaller domes on them than the p30's and will lower the compression of a b16a. You don't have to change the rods for any. You just use the right rods for the right block.
You also don't "chop" a connecting rod, you replace it with one of the correct length.
For a 1.8l motor, start with a stock rod. Deburr, shot-peen, and add arp rod bolts as mentioned above. Once you get them all matched up while balancing your rotating assembly you'll have more than enough rod for a mildly built street motor. Mine spins to 8800-9100 all day and has always been smooth as butter.
Who told you this?
2000 gsr rod = 13210-P73-000 = 2000 itr rod
There was a p72 rod in earlier gsr's but those earlier c5's also had p72 rods iirc, and the numbers have long since superceded to the current number.
Be careful with the spreading of the Hype-R myths!
You also don't "chop" a connecting rod, you replace it with one of the correct length.
For a 1.8l motor, start with a stock rod. Deburr, shot-peen, and add arp rod bolts as mentioned above. Once you get them all matched up while balancing your rotating assembly you'll have more than enough rod for a mildly built street motor. Mine spins to 8800-9100 all day and has always been smooth as butter.
Who told you this?
2000 gsr rod = 13210-P73-000 = 2000 itr rod
There was a p72 rod in earlier gsr's but those earlier c5's also had p72 rods iirc, and the numbers have long since superceded to the current number.
Be careful with the spreading of the Hype-R myths!
here it where
(itr) Rods are constructed of special high-strength steel to withstand higher rpm's and are still lighter than GS-R connecting rods
http://www.itrsport.com/technical.html
read this will help you understand
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/pistons.htm
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=183

good luck
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/temp/pistons.htm
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=183

good luck
Maybe originally they took the R rods and matched/balanced each set to an engine but that stopped at some point. If you look it up or go to an Acura dealer, both the GSR and ITR have the exact same part number for their rods. The only difference was the rod bolts between the GSR and ITR as mentioned in the link. The link makes no mention of how they made the rods lighter or stronger than GSR rods, only that they're better balanced with stronger rod bolts.
kinda seems to me the just started using the type r rod with the gsr rod bolts and didn't weight match it. I wounder if the new gsr rods have the same "R" stamp as the type R rods?
read last one I got it from the link
Connecting Rod Summary:
Connecting rod bolt elongation has been strictly controlled for uniform fastening force
Manually assembled for the Type R to reduce fastening force variance
The specially designed rods have the letter "R" molded onto them
Rods are constructed of special high-strength steel to withstand higher rpm's and are still lighter than GS-R connecting rods
if you still can't find it click on Custom-made Connecting Rods at the top
Connecting Rod Summary:
Connecting rod bolt elongation has been strictly controlled for uniform fastening force
Manually assembled for the Type R to reduce fastening force variance
The specially designed rods have the letter "R" molded onto them
Rods are constructed of special high-strength steel to withstand higher rpm's and are still lighter than GS-R connecting rods
if you still can't find it click on Custom-made Connecting Rods at the top
I read all that but something must have changed at some point in the production process as the part numbers are the same between GSR and ITR rods. ITR Rod bolts are stronger than GSR. Not sure if the R stamp was only on the JDM R versions or not. I have a USDM B18c5 but I've never had the pan off to see the rods and see what they say on them.
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