Car wont turn off
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From: Just Peachy
Ok here is my problem.I have a 2000 civic si and when the key is turned on the car starts up fine but when the key is turned to the off position the lights on the cluster and dash will not turn off.The cars ignition harness was butchered by the guy who installed the alarm so I removed everything making sure none of the wires were broken or damaged and replaced the ignition harness with a new one from honda.The main engine harness was replaced with a new mil spec harness and also has a molex connector also.The fusebox was tucked under the passenger side airbag.I was wondering if you guys have any ideas what it could be maybe the wires on the fusebox were switched and when the key is turned off the car still gets power from the battery?Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Does this happen only if you start the car, or will the cluster lights stay on if you just turn the key to run, [not start] and then off again?
How do you turn off the ign./engine now?94
How do you turn off the ign./engine now?94
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From: Just Peachy
I was hoping you would chime in since you seem to have a really good grasp on automotive electrical systems.The car hasnt been started since we are afraid that it will fry the aem ecu but the dash lights stay on till the battery is disconnected.We belive the car will keep running also and the main fuel relay seems to stay on but I am unsure if the relay is stuck or if its just that it stays on just like the ignition.I was thinking that the ignition was staying on due to the wires on the fusebox being on the wrong terminal and getting constant power from the battery but I dont think that could be it.Thanks for chiming in and trying to help I appreciate it.
If the cluster lights turn on as soon as batt. is connected, elliminate the ign. switch as the problem by unpluging the ign. switch harness, [2 plugs] then connecting batt., the PGM-FI Main Relay is staying on because the ign. is staying on, unplug the ign. switch harness and let me know what happens. 94
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From: Just Peachy
I am going to try that and would you be familiar with a 99-00 civic ignition harness?It has a small black sensor that gets screwed into the column and I was thinking that was a sensor that tells it where the key is turned to and maybe that was causing the issue .
You are probably looking at the key sense wire, signals ECU that the key is in the ign.. or you are looking at the immobilizedr wiring.
The actual ign. switch wiring is...
White - 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] power to the ign. switch.
Black/white - starter, [hot when cranking to start only] power to starter motor solenid.
Black/yellow - 1st ign. power, [hot in run and start] powers cars ign. system.
Yellow - 2nd ign. power, [hot in run only] powers things like blower motor and wipers.
White/black, acc. power, [hot in acc. and run] powers things like the radio.
The ign. switch harness splits into two plugs, [brown plugs] one should beplugged into the under dash fuse box and the other to a plug clipped to the side of the fuse box. 94
The actual ign. switch wiring is...
White - 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] power to the ign. switch.
Black/white - starter, [hot when cranking to start only] power to starter motor solenid.
Black/yellow - 1st ign. power, [hot in run and start] powers cars ign. system.
Yellow - 2nd ign. power, [hot in run only] powers things like blower motor and wipers.
White/black, acc. power, [hot in acc. and run] powers things like the radio.
The ign. switch harness splits into two plugs, [brown plugs] one should beplugged into the under dash fuse box and the other to a plug clipped to the side of the fuse box. 94
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From: Just Peachy
Well I tried what you asked me to do earlier and with the herness unplugged the same thing happens so I guess we can rule out the ignition switch and start looking at other items to eliminate from the list.
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Ditto that.
You have a "short" from a 12V+ constant lead, [hot at all times] to an ign. lead, [hot in run and/or run and start] and power is back-feeding to the ign. circuit, find shorted circuit...
Start by pulling the main light fuse in the engine bay fuse box, [should be around a 50A] connect batt., if no diff., one by one pull the constant power fuses in the engine bay and under dash fuse box, keeping an eye on the cluster to see if/when it goes out.
Do you have an aftermarket HU installed?
If so, pull it and unplug it. 94
You have a "short" from a 12V+ constant lead, [hot at all times] to an ign. lead, [hot in run and/or run and start] and power is back-feeding to the ign. circuit, find shorted circuit...
Start by pulling the main light fuse in the engine bay fuse box, [should be around a 50A] connect batt., if no diff., one by one pull the constant power fuses in the engine bay and under dash fuse box, keeping an eye on the cluster to see if/when it goes out.
Do you have an aftermarket HU installed?
If so, pull it and unplug it. 94
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From: Just Peachy
I will try that and I dont have any headunits in the car.Do you think that the two power wires from the alt and starter could be the issue on the fusebox?I dont think they can be causing this but this started after the fusebox was relocated into the car and I am unsure if those two wires were swapped to the wrong terminal on the fusebox and both the alt and starter wires are connected to the same terminal.
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From: Just Peachy
Well thanks for the help FCm and the car is running now and everything seems fine but what they did to resolve the issue is they depinned the black and white wire from the main relay harness.That wire I believe is supposed to get constant power so if that wire doesnt get power at all anymore and now the car works perfectly fine that seems like something is either wrong with the main relay or somehow there is a wire that is supplying constant power somewhere.I am just grasping at straws here I am no troubleshooting wiz.
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