I just picked up an ED with a b16 running obd0 off craigslist. i Might have paid too much for it, but it was a straight LX shell with a swap. I planned on gutting my other ED of all its goodies, putting my Built LS into it and call it a day. But now im wanting to keep the vtec. It can be fun

Now on to my problem. When i got the car, vtec wouldnt kick and it had a CEL. the light was for the 02 sencer not being hooked up. But now that i have had time to look into it more. THe previous owner was retarded.
There DP to MP conversion has 100's of extra feet of wire that doesnt lead to anything... its hard to believe that there are people out there who except stuff like that.

Anyways i also noticed that the temp sensor was not hooked up, nore was the knock sensor. But i dont see the wires that go to them eather. So im in a pickle. I wanna start over with a fresh harness, so what would be the best harness to get for me to run a Obd-0 B16a2 in my 89 Civic Sedan? And do i only need the engine harness or the whole under dash too.
Thanks for all of the help.

 

as long as the cabin harness isn't muffed up then all you need is an engine harness. now what engine harness you need... is the stock one. convert it to mpfi and then run the wires seperately into the cabin for knock, vtec, etc. it'd be nice if you could just drop in a harness already converted to mpfi ready to go, but unfortunately it doesn't work that way.

 

Well poo. Haha. Damn.
The wires running into the ECU are Kinda jumbbled up. About 7 of them are cut. Some of them are hooked up to new wires, others arnt. THis guy's work is pissing me off.
So i chould get a new dual point harness, and start a MP conversion fresh? then after that add the wires for the vtec stuff?
Sweet. And here i thought it would be easy. Haha. Ugh

 

the previous owner is pissing me off more and more. tranny missing 2 bolts into the motor. and a trailing arm bolt too.
but i did find out that i have tokicos and ground controls. also a BBP 4 to 1 long tube header. any body ever heard of them?

 

pic a part, $30-$40 a harness, find a mpfi one and pull it all and do it right, if not i would hook up everything stock dpfi at ecu and get another stock dpfi harness for under hood and do the conversion %100 yourself so you can trust your reliability

 

better off rewire everything than fix somebody's mess, b16a2 was obd1 and i dont think injector resistor was needed

 

I second rewiring everything. But a B16A2 was obd2. B16A3 was obd1. If the injectors are re-done to accept 12v constant power rather than pulses then you don't need the resistor box. But I personally would reset it to work with a resistor box, and once everything is finally running smooth, then you can delete the box.

 

If you run into any serious problems, you can use these schematics to bail yourself out....this first one is from a Helms Manual of the OBD0 CRX Si-R.....the B16A CRX
This drawing has the computer in the center, with each pin labeled and shows what sensor each wire goes to....might take you a little bit of time to know what its saying....you need to know a little about what symbols mean what in the diagram....like the ground symbol, or resistor symbols. i had to build a harness from scratch last winter for my ef hatch, and i pretty much just relied on these schematics


http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/5...b16awiring.png <--- larger PNG of it, still kinda gritty

also, Hondata has a good pinout of the PR3 in their tech articles:
http://www.hondata.com/techwiringpw0.html


using the stuff above should help you get your car wired up right, below is more reliable info on most hondas
this page has tons of helms honda manuals for free download.....really really awesome:
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/CRX/

if you want to find the OBD0 B16A schematic download this one, and open the "EF Suppliment" PDF, it's on page 81
http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto...ivicManual.zip

 

Thanks for all of the help. But i found a few more little secret devils that the seller didnt tell me about. Oh well. Im just gonna gut it. Keep the goodie and scrap the shell. Still good amout of parts on it so i didnt get burned too bad.

\Still Curious if any body has heard of BBP. Cuz i really like this header true long tube, 4-1 header.

 

Oh, and what dizzy should i be using with an OBD-0 B16a2? right now it suposidly has an LS Dizzy. IS that right?

 

i had never heard of bbp till a friend of mine kept goin on about em one day and told me about how he thought they were pretty awesome. other then that i don't know squat about them lol. the ls dizzy will work so long as it physically bolts to the cylinder head ok and of course assuming its obd# matches the ecu's.

 

Awsome. Well, the cars runs, so im assuming that there isnt an issue with the dizzy. haha THanks

 

So i decided i to scrap the new ED and just use it for parts. Found out that it wasnt hitting vtec because the previous idoit didnt even wire it up. I put the b16 in my BAR'd Sedan on saturday. And i switched to the b16 ECU. But i havnt run the vtec wires yet eather. So its obviously throwing a CEL.
But here is my new question, it isnt in limp mode (i dont think) because it goes at least to 6500rpm. I was told with vtec not hooked up, it shouldnt go past 5 or so.
Sorry to sound like a noob, but this is my first time with vtec. Haha

 

Oh, and i cant remember what the 4 wires are for the vtec are.
I know that there is
Knock Sensor Goes to B19
Vtec Solinoid Goes to B5

But im not sure what the other 2 are
thanks again!

 

vtec pressure switch goes to b5, vtec solenoid is at a8. you're correct about the knock, and then your 2nd o2 goes to c8.

http://hondaswap.com/gallery/data/50...swap_wires.jpg

 

Wait, what is your car barred for? I'm assuming If you barred it for a b16 you should have all the wiring done? If it's for an LS, just add the vtec wires and hope a cop doesn't pull you over.

 

Wait, I'm confused. I need a 2nd o2 when running obd0?

And yes, I'm bar'd for LS, but its an old bar sticker. All it says it 1991 Acura 1.8. Not non-vtec or vtec or anything. And of the 100's of times I have been pulled over, they see the sticker in the door, look at the motor, pretend they know what they are talking about and looking at, and send me on my way. Hahahaha

 

if i recall the obd0 b16 ecu looks for a 2nd o2 input

 

Huh. OK. So should I get another o2? Or just Lupe my first one twice?

 

you'll need another o2.

http://mivek4doddle.blogspot.com/200...y-in-year.html

 

Well, that throws a monkey wrench into things. Damn. I wanna keep with the stock manifold to keep the cops off me

 

I was going through my buddys garage and we just happen to find an OBD-0 b16 manifold! Haha random. Next question, what would be the best o2 sensor to get? Cuz Napa can't get a 89crx si r sensor Haha.figured they couldn't, but I had to try. Also, the gasket between the two pieces.

 

To tell you the truth I don't think it was the previous owner though I can be wrong. I just bought my first ef and my wiring under the hood might look the same as yours. A lot of extra wires that lead to no where, etc. Post some pics when you get a chance. I would love to see how your project is going. I'm new to imports so i'm trying to learn as much as I can before I take the next step in my project.

 

^ honda never made wires that went to nothing.

it was the previous owner. If it has a swap it was the previous owner. USDM ED/EF never came with a B series

 

Yea, this is my second EF and it deffinatly was the previous owner that hacked the car up.
But its ok. That shell was gutted, scrapped, and is now gone. But not before i took everything i needed + stuff i MIGHT need in the future.

Motor, suspension, doors, hood, deck lid, and interior. Dash, pedal assembly, Ect.

Im not the best at loading pix, but ill do what i can. The cars not pretty at the moment at all because i live down a 2 mile dirt driveway (that is 100% mud right now)

As for the next step for your project, go LS or bigger. I love the top end of the b16, with the 8lb flywheel, and S1 tranny it just screems at high rpms. And it just flys down the freeway. But im not digging the no torque thing. It kinda sucks. Im missing my LS more and more.

Whats a good way to get more torque out of a 1.6?