i just recently put a 1999 si b16a2 with type r intake manifold into my hf crx ,car starts runs and drives but wont engage vtec. im throwing code 10 and code 3 which is intake air temp and map sensor i switched out the map and still nothing, im using the map on the throttle body not the firewall the car will rev up to 9 but it wont engage vtec.also car is running super rich and idleing at 1500.
i did the obd o to obd 1 conversion i have oil pressure vtec solenoid 4 wire o2 and the injectors wired up i elimenated the resistor box .

why wont vtec engage and how do i fix the code 3 an 10?

 

Which throttle body are you using?

btw, an ITR manifold on a B16A "looses" power!!!

 

im using the stock b16 throttle body also the reason im using the type r manifold is because my b16 1 had a crack in it and i had the type r one just lying around

 

So what ECU are you using? How is the EACV/FITV set up?

I would have recommended just getting a pre-OBD B16A manifold & distributor and running it with a PR3 or PW0 ECU, but looks like it's a bit late for that.

Better re-check your wiring and vacuum lines.

 

x2 Type-R Intake Manifold On B16 Loses Power Unless Its Built, But For Stock It Loses Power Its Proven

As Far As The no VTEC, I Had The Same Problem In My Old SOHC, I Was Throwing No Codes At All And It Turned Out To Be A Clogged Screen On The VTEC Solenoid Gasket It Was Clogged Shut, And Not Knowing A History Of The Motor And How It Was Maintained That Could Be A Possibility

 

take out the intake air temp sensor and see if its burnt if so replace it.
as far as the map and running rich part did by a change get some plugs switched around?

 

im using a chipped p28

 

as for the eavc/fitv im not sure ill have to take a look and ill take a look at the iat sensor and see if its burnt

 

this weekend i checked the vtec solenoid and nothing it was clean as a whistle and the cylinder inside it moved freely im gunna go over some of the wiring again later today

if anybody can think of any reasons why no vtec and the map sensor code or even why it would run so rich? thanks for any help

 

What sort of "chipped" P28 is this? Is it some fancy Spoogen program on an eBay chip, or has it been properly chipped with a P30 base map?

 

no its not a bobo ebay chip it is a properly chipped and tuned ecu with a b16 map i even tried the ecu in a buddy's car and it works perfect.

 

You need to clear all codes and go from there....get an obd0 pr3 or pw0!

Should have kept it simple and ran obd0

 

Hey man
I have a similar set up with my CRX.
Question for you is your engine is OBD2 right? so what kit/wires did you use to convert it to OBD0 in the engine bay? And what converter did you use from your ECU to those OBD0 plugs?

Reason why I ask is because I bought a converter (i think it was OBD0-OBD2 since my engine was 99) and when i installed it I had the same codes plus a few others. But what i found was the people who made the converter screwed up two wires. The wire for IAT and MAP and i think two others. It was just a big mess. I had to re-pin a few of the connectors.

I would suggest take your nifty voltage meter and measure continutity between wiring diagrams. I.E. Which wire the ECU is using for IAT and MAP and see where it goes to in your engine bay.

It's just a thought but that could be your problem.

Oh and for the vtec not engaging, these sensors need to be working Oil Pressure, Water Temperature, Engine Speed, Throttle Position and Vehicle speed sensor. If one of them is giving a wrong signal vtec won't go. I remember in mine because the tranny for my B18C was electronic i had to wire it into the ECU so that my Vtec would engage.

 

im using a 0bd 0 to obd 1 jumper harness i have a distributor adaptor wired the injectors and eliminated the resitor box, for the map sensor it says to just extend the wires from the map on the firewall to reach the throttle body. on the jumper harness theres nothing for the intake air temp i thought on obd-o cars there was a iat on the stock harness

 

exactly where is the sensor for oil pressure? and is the water temp supposed to be rewired to the swith on the thermastat housing? and if so where is the water temp located? want to make sure i extend the right wires.

 

The TW sensor (a.k.a. ECT sensor or water temp) is located in the cylinder head directly underneath the VTEC spool valve. It has a round 2-pin plug with either a black or a white plastic socket. The little single-pin sensor under the distributor is for the water temp gauge IIRC. The water temp sensor on the thermostat housing is for the rad fan(s).

How did you extend the wires? Are you just twisting them together with wire nuts, or are you using butt connectors or solder?

 

soldering them together and using heat shrink. so does the round 2 pin plug on the cylinder head need to be lengthened to the reach the thermastat housing? or do i not need to wory bout that. my temp guage does work.

 

the 2-wire sensor on the end of the head is the Coolant Temp Sensor for the ECU (code 6) - has 2-wire connector with red with white stripe and green with white stripe wires - it needs to stay like it is

the 1-wire sensor on the end of the head is the sending unit for the temp gauge - has yellow with green stripe wire

on the OBD1/2 engine the cooling fan switch is on the thermostat housing - on the OBD0 engine, it is on the back of the block next to the oil filter (has a big round black rubber boot on it) - the 2 wires for the cooling fan switch are black and yellow with green stripe and need to be extended to the sensor on the thermostat housing with a different connector swapped onto the wires in order for the fan to work

the sensor for the oil pressure is also on the back of the block next to the oil filter and next to the cooling fan switch - has one wire connector with yellow with a red stripe wire - it also has a black rubber boot on it

 

Hey guys im gunna check some stuff out this weekend as long as the wether allows it and ill let you know what happens.
thanks
donald

 

ok all the temp sensors are good double checked the vacuum lines there all good.
now last night i noticed my head gasket is leaking and quite a bit. now would a bad head gasket and possibly worn valve seals cause the ecu to throw a code 3?
this weekend im gunna pull the head off i need to do some head work anyway

 

ok so got rid of map code 3 i tried wiring the map thats on the TB directly to the ecu and nothing so i tried to the vacuum map sensor on the fire wall hooked up the vacuum line and wired it directly to the ecu and it worked took it for a spin and broke vtec just to make sure it worked
still have to do head gasket though im looking into doing valve guides and valve seals anyone know where to find a good DIY thread?