Granted the oil pressures/temps stays healthy, the coolant temp is kept
under control (less than 30-50%), tuning is no more than 18-20BTDC base
timing, medium lift cams with moderate cam settings, full exhaust tuning and regular maintainence...11.5:1 static cr... 12-15lb flywheel... JDM tranny...
Hondata'd with proper fuel delivery and calibration...
how long could this engine last driven spiritedly?

how long would you all say until it would need bearings and rings?
what suggestions could you make to help see reliability as well as performance?

 

forever, until something else goes....oil pump, cooling system.....
and as long as it doesn't detonate.

but most important, if the oil is there, it will last a long long time.

 

would you suggest changing the oil pump at any interval or
if one were to install guages... it should be replaced when
it begins to get soft...?

I know endyn modifys the stock B series oil pump for more flow
to meet the demands of racing. Would this be a worth while mod
to purchase and keep around? Its about $200

 

No.
If anything, just swap out the gear with a stronger one such as toda or prodrive
and then you shouldnt have to worry about replacing the pump for a long time.
Otherwise the motor should last forever if driven normally. If you drive like I do
or race a lot then i would strongly suggest bearing inspections every 20-25k miles.
Compression and leakdown tests are always a good thing once the miles build up.

 

more good advice thanks guys

setup:
GSR head, cams amd cogs
GSR intake with 4" fresh air hose to airbox/comptech filter
GSR intake manifold, VVIS retained, runners opened, butterflys knifed
GSR TB 70/60/68, portmatched intake mani
OBD2 99 GSR computer
ITR Muffler
ITR valvesprings and LMAs, Skunk Ti ret
ARP head studs stock HG
ITR block
GSR/LS clutch
ITR flywheel
GSR tranny

here are the steps I am considering:

break in on 5-30 GTX to 3K
change to Amsoil 10-30w full syn
pick up ordered fluidyne radiator and install, check temp and
install my mugen thermo and switch if necessary
oil catch can setup, oil filter relocation, oil gagues temp and pressure
run to 5000 miles before any changes from 0,0 16BTDC
dyno baseline: expecting 160/125 at the wheels

Stage 1: expecting 180/135 at the wheels at 16 and 0,0 further tuning
may see 188/132 +/- 5 and 125 @ 5250rpm
Hytech Exhaust
hondata Stage3, OBD1 P72 ecu, 8500 rev limit
B&M fpr
spoon or jun cam sprockets

Stage2: expect more TQ to the ground and quicker acceleration
98 + JDM ITR Tranny
clutch and flywheel TBA
Oil Pump Gear modification
install rear koni shocks, reinstall slotted front rotors
revisit springrates and perches/structural bracing

Stage3: expecting 200/150 at the wheels at 16 0,0 timing
.0020" mill, mugen gasket, P/P for 11.5:1 cr and 250 cams
Skunk Stage1 253/249 cams
IB valvetrain
310cc injectors
9200 rev limit/fuel cut
MSD coil with 8750 ignition cutoff
(saftey precaution subject to being omitted)
full tuning may reveal 212/155 and 145 @ 5250rpm
(want a bell shaped TQ curve tuned on the VVIS manifold
I want SICK midrange TQ in a 1797cc motor!)

Stage4: 16" lightweight OEM looking rims, ITR wing, shaved body mouldings
some needed paintwork, Fastbrakes setup F/R with Axxis Ultimates, ITR
gague cluster, floor mats and the all important ITR shift ****... hehe

= my teg in 2 years. Auto X and road course weekend fun, could also daily
drive, hopefully still getting 25+ mpg, having been tuned correctly and
regular maintainence rendered.

Thats my plan so far... $$$$$$$$$$




[Modified by MikeSarr_GSR, 10:26 PM 9/6/2002]