Hi, I have a 1997 Accord EX 5/Speed

The problem is when the car is warm, normally after stopping at a light or getting up to 3-3.2 k rpm the car starts to jerk and seems to lose power.

Stepping on the gas just seems to make the problem worse/slows down even more. It normally last for about 30 secs to 1 minute, then the car runs like a champ. If it helps, when i bought the car it looked like it had a brand new radiator.

I've heard about coolant temp sensors, let me know what you think.

Thanks for all the help!

 

Try doing a tune-up and don't skimp out on the fuel filter either, nobody ever changes that **** on Accords for some reason.

 

I'll give that a shot, your right about the filter too!

 

Where is the fuel filter? I have 99 EX and it seems it has no standard fuel filter.

 

The 5th gen (94-97) is in the engine bay:

http://www.freewebs.com/hondadude/95...l%20Filter.htm

Your 99 doesn't have a standard fuel filter. It is on the fuel tank, and only replaced if you have problems:

http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detai...6011&d=997&p=2

 

Thanks for all the help, turns out I just swapped out the thermostat, and so far so good, Thanks to my Uncle Robert, for saving me money with the testing techniques on the fan switches and the coolant temp sensor. It seems that all this time my engine computer was cutting the fuel to the cylinders because the f'n thermostat wasn't opening all the way, causing the engine to run HOT, on some other cars driving them like that for a year would have blown the engine, but not my trusty Honda


Once again thanks for the tips
:s cared::sca red::scare d:

still biting my nails because I've only driven it about 45 mins, but I'll post again if the situations changes

I hope this will help any one else with the same problem

 

Sweet. I was thinking something along the lines of filter myself... Didn't ur temp gauge show of any temp fluctuations?

 

No, that's the weird thing, the temp gauge only showed a normal running temp, (just below halfway point) it never went any higher than that, which would be the reason why it took me so long to figure it out. But I will be taking it out today to be sure the problem is solved. The car is completely cold by now, so I will know by the end of the day.

 

Update,

The problem is not as bad anymore, but I think it may be because the cooling system may have a air pocket, which may be causing a hot spot, but the lag is for only a few seconds instead of the almost minute that it use to be. Hopefully after I work out the air bubble it will stop completely.

Let me hear you,

Does the air pocket thing sound right, or could I have missed something else that still needs to be done. I honestly think that the thermostat was the problem.

 

Did you bleed the system via the bleed nipple on the intake manifold?

 

No, I was told that, after a few cold/hot cycles, I would be able to simply remove the radiator cap and sorta burp the system.

But I think I will just try to bleed it.

Will I have to re-drain the radiator to do it (that seems like common sense) but I just want to be sure.

Thanks by the way

 

On most cars you can often get away with 'burping' the system. Not on the Accord. In the Accord FAQ section here, and then scroll down to this thread, you will see this picture. That nipple is the bleeder port. With the engine cold, open the radiator cap, then open that nipple. Unscrew it about half a turn and let the coolant sputter out, when you have a steady stream then the trapped air is removed from the system. Close the nipple, top off the rad and the overflow, close both and then go for a spin.

 

Success!!!!

The cooling system is bled, and the car is doing much better, still a hiccup here and there but I feel the car will start running much better over time. Don't forget I was running a full year with a bad thermostat, and god knows how long the previous owner did the same, but me being a car guy, I made it my business to find and fix the problem.

I will def keep you guys posted will all progress/digress of my 97 honda vtech.

P.S. the bleeder valve is sooooooooo hard to miss, unless your not looking for it. I got up early, in the rain, popped the hood and was stunned with how fast I located it. The look of the whirlpool of coolant properly circulating was a great sight. Oh and I assume the whirlpool is a GOOD thing.

Thanks for all the help and tips guys!!!!

 

My question is simple,

Do I need a turbo to have a after market BOV (blow off valve)?

 

Late Update::::

It was the battery, I changed the battery, and the problem is completely gone now!!!!!

 

Mines the same. My battery is horrid.