so i got my skunk2 valve train install, pro series spring and valves std compresson. std size. and ti retainer. currently is running on gsr cams(in b16a motor) skunk2 got some good stuff by the way. so i can feel a quicker respond, and i losing traction around higher rpm. i haven't got it tune since the upgrade, but it was tuned before i install the part.

i need some better cams, i m not sure what cams go with, i can pick up a set type r cam (ctr) for 150, or buy new skunk2. this is my daily car, i haven't decide going with NA or turbo, but right now i have to stick with stock cr. i just building my engine slowly. but i want to get as much power i can for now. so i need a pair of cams gonna give me great power increase but doesn't wore out my valve train. since i have pro series, i think i can able to handle pretty good cams. what u guys think i should go with.

 

it would help if you give more detail of your engine. all you gave is its a b16 w/valve train

 

If you have a B16, and already have Pro-series valvesprings & retainers, get a set of Pro1's. It will bring to life the non-existent low-mid revvs, while improving top-end as well.

 

I agree on the Pro 1's, they're alot better than the CTR, the only downside is they need to be degree'd. I went with the Tuner 2 cams from skunk2 in my LS/Vtec which are supposed to net close to the same peak hp but with less low/midrange than the pro 1's

 

Not entirely true.

I've installed many Pro-series camshafts on various B and H motors, and never used a degree fixture set. You just need to be aware of the different centerlines that the Pro-series cams have. You cannot run them at 0,0 without risking valve-to-valve contact, and the quick settings will work for a majority of people. Plus, once you tune cam timing on the dyno, you have just wasted all the effort to degree-in the valve events.

It is MUCH more important to know what your clearances are. Safe V2V and P2V should be > 0.040".

 

How will pro1's perform on a stock compression B16A?

 

If you already have springs, there is absolutely no reason to use ITR/CTR cams. You can go bigger.

At the very least, go with BC3+. Anything from a Jun 3 copy (Blox and several others make them) to a Pro 1 would work for you. You don't have a lot of displacement, but b16s can wind out well enough to make good power at the top end with some pretty big cams if you support them with a good header and intake. If you go bigger than the BC3+, you will need a real tune to take advantage of the cams potential.

Best of luck with your project.

 

sorry i missed the detail on my motor.

90 crx si gutted, with b16a on y1LSD
blox manifold, 68mm blox tb
skunk2 retainer
skunk2 pro series valve spring
skunk2 pro series valves set std cr
gsr cams with aem adjustable cam gear(fixed the bolts problem)
hondata im gasket
cometic gasket .30
arp head stud
stock piston(pr3)
stock rod
stock crank
dc sports 4-1 header
lightweight flywheel 8-9lbs? don't really know it came with the setup
stage 2 clutch, i think act
obd1 conver... gsr dizzy, p28 crome tuned
stock 240cc injector obd1, and stock fpr

before head work, cr check from dizzy to timing belt, 210, 209, 209, 211.

i sticking with b16a so far becuz i just love the b16a rev happy. but i do get kill of the line by gsr (in same type chasis) so yes there not much tq there.

i building this to able to put 300-350 to ground. so turbo really my answer.
unless i can build a all motor with gsr bottom end or lsv or b20v to able to run low 12s high 11 mark, i sticking with turbo.
my car run 10.009 @69mph on 1/8mph before the tb, cams, ecu, valve train upgrade. car feel stronger. (becuz may be my valve seat not in great shape) and it respond at lot quicker with skunk2 parts.
i looking for a cam that going to increase a good amount power and also will work with turbo setup later down the road. but it is still a dd car so i can't afford the cams wore down my valve train.

my car with me before i gutted it out. 2380.
i would think is around 2300lbs now with me in it? not sure.
cams and traction bar is my next step. i wont be touch the bottom end till the end of this year, going with forged piston and rod, thats the part i have to decide to which bottom end to use. and it really come down to the tranny. i have a y1 LSD and i worry with too much tq will destory my lsd, i'm not sure.

i hope this info will help.

 

one thing i notice when i install the blox im i lost a lot of tq, and ran slower on 1/8 but more mph. once i install the blox 68mm tb and gsr cam, it felt more tq, it pull alot harder all the way thu, i don't know u can get the best of both world on cams, tq and hp? but it would be nice, that the cam can make up the lack of tq on b16a and give a good increase of hp.

 

Again, Pro1's will improve hp/tq across the entire revv range.

They also play well with boost, so they would be forward compatible with your future plans.