Hey HT
I am looking at purchasing 84mm Rs machine itr pistons and either SCAT rods or Eagle rods. I am tinking that this setup will make the rotating assembly really heavy..? This is a budget build that will be reved to 8.5k rpm max. Will be broken in with CTR cams then swaped out to S2S2 cams. Or shuld i stay with the b20/ls rods with ARP rod bolts presed in at the shop and line honned? From youre guys experience. How much will a shop charge to instal the arp bolts into the b20 rods and if nesecary line hone them...? Im shoting for 220whp with the ctr cams and then what ever the s2s2 make.

Already have a b16 head thats pnp, soon to come supertech flat face valves to replace the itr ones, bronze vlave guides, dual valve springs, ti retainers, itr intake mani with 70mm tb thats matched to the itr mani. Also is e85 worth the hastle or will 91 octane get me to my goals. I know e85 you need 51% more fuel to burn good. And double the injectors if youre running regualr pump fuel. But its easier to tune, smells like corn lol and is cheap but dont you get shitty gas millege..? Like 20mpg.?

Thanks

 

get eagle rods if your revvin to 8500

 

I went trought the b20vtec tread.
Seems like some of the guys run stock rods with arp bolts and seem to do really good with out any problems. Or some rev to 9k with no problems.
I need more expirienced people to chime in.

 

Well since b20 and ls rods are the same I can say that you will be fine at revving the engine to 8.5k. I had an Ls/vtec in my crx and I use to take it to 9.3k pretty much on a constant basis. Still 'till this day the engine runs fine and hasn't had any problems 3 yrs after it was built and about 70k miles on it now.

Good luck with your build.

 

Im guessing you had arp rod bolts in them ls rods. How much is it at the shop roughly to get the arp stuff presed in and line honned if theyre out of round.
Dang thats alot of millege for an lsv. What power are you making.?

 

A machine shop here will charge around $ 60-100 to install the ARP bolts in the rods ( to all 4 ). If you get your block honed or bored they will probably charge you a little less.

 

To install them. But what about line honning them if they get out of round. If its going to be like around 150 200 then mind *** well ad 80 and go pick up a set of eagle rods that are localy to me for 280. I already have 2 eagle rods. I got quoted around 200 for 2 eagle rods. To me that seams alot for just 2.
Were would be the best place to order some RS machine pistons except ebay. I heard that if i call around some shops in my area they might have some for cheaper or get them for cheaper.
Thanks

 

I used Eagle rods. They work well

 

Some guy in the all motor dyno tread is making 250+whp on stock ls/b20 rods with arp bolts. Im convinced to run stock rods now.

 

not all rods are created equal, remember that. I've also seen a ton of people rev stock first gen B16s to 9500 without destroying the engine and seen more grenade motors due to valve float.

I went with the eagle rods because it would have cost me nearly the same to peen the rods and have them refitted with arp bolts.

That's just my $.02

 

SO just to be on the safe side it would be way better to invest the extra $ into some eagle rods that already come with arp bolts.
What does shot peened rods stand for. I heard alot of people say it. It makes the rods stronger?

 

yes, I did have arp rod bolts installed. Regarding the cost on the labor (press the bolt and hone the rods) cost me only $50 since I was doing my block with the machine shop. Mileage wise if the engine is built correctly with all clearances to spec you can expect an engine that will last for a long time, the engine when it was dyno tuned about 3 years ago made 218 whp and 139 wtq on a dyno jet. And is still pulling like the day I got it tuned.

 

I went with the eagle rods simply because they're tried and true. I'm not saying that stock rods don't work, many people have done it without a hitch.

 

This b20v is going to be built for some DD fun and ocasional trips to the strip. Ill look in on how much its going to cost a shop to install the arp stuff with some local shops.
Is that from an lsv. Thats some nice power.

Also
The b20 block that i have hass all yellow bearings and a two bearings are red. This trew me of a lil since i will be ordering the standard ACL race bearings and theyre the equvialent to green OEM bearings. Any help on this..?

 

i would go with the oem bearings rather then the acls just so you can get the clearences you need

 

what about acl duraglides?

 

Im really not loking to spending 300 on oem bearings. And i guess i can say i am a noob when it comes to chosing bearings. Shuld i just get what collors i have in the block already if i do decide to get oem bearings..?

What about them..? Theyre like oem equivalent. I looked them up on google and couldnt seem to find a set for a b20

 

Also what injectors shuld i get for roughly 12.1:1 CR. Im tinking the DSM 450s or the 550s cc..?
Or will the RDX 410s be good. Theyre also have better fuel spray pattern.

 

no offense, your being a noob by being cheap. most of the time, its worth spending the extra cash. ACL comes in 2 sizes, where as OEM comes in 7 (iirc), you choose which bearing you want to use from there.

yes ACL does work, if your measurements allows them to, if not, go with OEM

 

ls bearings same as b20 ?

 

Its all good, theres an begining to everything. Im shure you were once like me.
Would you be able to show me a website that sells OEM bearings that wont putt a dent in my pocket. Im willing to pay, just not over 300. Does it come with main bearings, rod bearings and thrust bearings?
Thanks

 

welcome to putting together an engine properly. You do realize that it will cost you more money when you wreck a crank or rods due to poor clearances than it will to spend the money now and have an engine that will last. It's part of the process my friend. Do it right the first time. If the ACL bearings give you the right clearances, knock yourself out.

 

Yeah definetly wouldnt want to redo an engine that i just droped 2.5k into all over again just because of some bearings that were either to lose or tight.
Can i mix match bearings. Like run oem main bearings and run acl rod bearings.
On the b20b block that i have. All the main bearings are yellow collor and 2 are red.???? The rod bearings are all yelow to.

 

I dont wanna sound preachy, and you seem like you are leaning on the cheap side. So do what ever you want. I have used eagle rods they worked great. My setup now is a B20/V STOCK RODS w/ARP bolts. It was on motor and nitrous but now on 17 psi, no problems yet. I shift at 9200. I have had a few slip ups due too an 10.5k rev limiter, not many but its still good. I have run ACL RACE bearing in all my engines and have only had ONE mess up but it was because my oil pump took a dump.
With ARP bolts you will have to get the rods resized, also i suggest getting the whole rotating assemble balanced. The machine shop I goto charged me $8 per rod to resize, i get a bit of a discount sometimes but regular price couldnt be much discount. I dont know if this was any help but that is just my experience.

 

x2 by the time i did my calculations on peening my rods plus rod bolts plus installing the rod bolts it was the same price ad my eagle rods plus with eagle yo have assurance and dont have to wonder if ya motor is gonna hold up i say go eagle