camber and suspension ?'s
One word: SEARCH
so go post ***** somewhere else!
Eibach sportlines w/ Koni Yellows, Neuspeed strut bars, ST sway bars, 16" SSR rims w/ Dunlop SP9000's, no front camber kit.. on the rear I just used the ghetto washer/shim trick.. I rotate my tires every oil change (every 3K).. don't have any bad/odd/inner edge wear
Ok, when people say you can get away with no camber kit if you set your toe in to spec, are the tires still tilted inward? I mean, cause even if the tire wear is very low, I drag race so I want my full contact patch on the ground...
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negative camber gets better traction, but eats your tires quicker...
The search function works fine. Learn to use different compund words and also try the archives.
I Installed Ingalls Camber kits Front and Rear. The front tirewell had to be slightly modified to clear the upper A-arm.
Also, improper toe kills tires faster than too much negative camber.
My setup: 400F/500R with KONI 8041 shocks revalved front
and back, shortened 1.5 inches (3/4 off the rod and 3/4 off the body)
from Truechoice... the ride is stiff, but acceptable. The shocks do not bottom out, but the chasis can... so I still need to use some sense over speed bumps and ramps.
Currently the front is lowered 2-1/4 inches and the rear is 2 inches... no tire gap.
For autocross I'd raise it ~1 inch for more travel... also consider that I do this with my car already having shortened shocks.
One last thing... calm down and stop being so impatient. The interent is your friend. No need to let anger get the best of you. Do you think you'll get a better answer if you do this over the internet? It's counter-productive. Have one on me.
[Modified by P, 10:00 AM 9/6/2002]
I Installed Ingalls Camber kits Front and Rear. The front tirewell had to be slightly modified to clear the upper A-arm.
Also, improper toe kills tires faster than too much negative camber.
My setup: 400F/500R with KONI 8041 shocks revalved front
and back, shortened 1.5 inches (3/4 off the rod and 3/4 off the body)
from Truechoice... the ride is stiff, but acceptable. The shocks do not bottom out, but the chasis can... so I still need to use some sense over speed bumps and ramps.
Currently the front is lowered 2-1/4 inches and the rear is 2 inches... no tire gap.
For autocross I'd raise it ~1 inch for more travel... also consider that I do this with my car already having shortened shocks.
One last thing... calm down and stop being so impatient. The interent is your friend. No need to let anger get the best of you. Do you think you'll get a better answer if you do this over the internet? It's counter-productive. Have one on me.
[Modified by P, 10:00 AM 9/6/2002]
I know negative camber is good for auto-x and handling traction, but not having your full contact patch on the ground for drag racing is bad, right? And if you have negative camber, you definitely won't have your full tire contact patch on the ground...
This is a theory so...
I think negative camber is good for drag for the same reason its good for autocross. When you take a hard turn, the weight shifts to the opposite side of the car (i.e. left turn shifts weight to the right). when the weight shifts, theres more weight on the tires, so they compress some. When they comppress a certain amount, the contact patch becomes bigger than if your camber was correct.

The red line is the new contact patch with negative camber. The red arc shows where the line would be along that path. As you can see, the red arc extends past the dotted black like (the original contact patch with correct camber).
The image to the right has the negative camber'd tire on top, and the normal one on bottom. As you can see, the negative camber tire has a slightly wider contact patch.
I hope that made sense, otherwise i will have to make naother drawing
This is a theory so...
I think negative camber is good for drag for the same reason its good for autocross. When you take a hard turn, the weight shifts to the opposite side of the car (i.e. left turn shifts weight to the right). when the weight shifts, theres more weight on the tires, so they compress some. When they comppress a certain amount, the contact patch becomes bigger than if your camber was correct.

The red line is the new contact patch with negative camber. The red arc shows where the line would be along that path. As you can see, the red arc extends past the dotted black like (the original contact patch with correct camber).
The image to the right has the negative camber'd tire on top, and the normal one on bottom. As you can see, the negative camber tire has a slightly wider contact patch.
I hope that made sense, otherwise i will have to make naother drawing
Yah, my theory didnt take sidewall strength into account. You shouldnt have impropper camber settings anyway, if you want a bigger contact patch, get azenis
Anyone else out there want to chime in on if negative camber is good or bad for drag racing? Cause I'd love to save the $130 and not get a camber kit, but I want my 60' times to be as low as possible.
[Modified by G2Integrity, 10:49 PM 9/6/2002]
C'mon man... http://www.prodriveusa.com/specials $85 for all 4 corners? You cannot really complain about that price, plus your Azenis already wear abnormally faster than a normal street tire. Camber kit will possibly help you save just that small bit ya know?
Anyone else out there want to chime in on if negative camber is good or bad for drag racing? Cause I'd love to save the $130 and not get a camber kit, but I want my 60' times to be as low as possible.
[Modified by G2Integrity, 10:49 PM 9/6/2002]
[Modified by G2Integrity, 10:49 PM 9/6/2002]
what type of suspension are you running plus what camber kit are you running and how do you like it?
Ground control coilovers and KYB AGXs here. I have Ingalls camber kits with urethane bushings. Type R rear sway. I love the setup. There used to be quite a bit of racket from the bushings in the rear camber adjusters, untill they met white lithium grease. Now they're very quiet.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 12,499
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From: Newark/Bay Area, CA., USA
i got shitty weapon R dual coil w/ tokico 5 way adjustables...... love the shocks, but the shocks dont seem to love the coil overs....my ride is some what on the rougher side. No camber kit yet, but camber wear isnt all that bad...you have to be lower than 2.5" to be really noticing camber wear..thats just my opinion and experience tho
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