pls read the below link.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=271897

thanks

 

Why are you asking in the Appearance/Cosmetic forum?

Camber kits have nothing to do with appearance.

Also that forum is filled with high school idiots.

How much camber do you want to add?

Why does the kit need to be "JDM"?

 

my bad for posting there.

well i want to lower my car so there won't be any gaps. i don' know how much camber i'll need so pls help.

the reason i put "JDM" is because A sport is a japanese make and king/s2 is not

 

If you want to correct camber get an Ingalls camber kit for the front and washers/longer bolts for the rear.

You don't need to waste your money on the competition parts which you don't need.

 

i know i could use ingalls and washers but i was just wondering what the difference with these camber kits what's the hype?

"it's good to lean more"
thanks Reid

 

There's no hype with those who use them for their intended purpose.

They're race parts used to adjust camber (and caster on the A sports kit) on vehicles that will see track time.

We're trying to add camber instead of remove it.

 

Well, Since Reid is of no help in this subject and replies with nothing but smartass remarks, Ill do my best.

That JDM Camber kit looks ALOT more sturdier than Skunk2 (aka Junk2), but on the other hand, appears it will take longer to adjust as well.

The Skunk2 balljoints are of EXTREMELY poor quality and have a tendency to slide out to FULL positive. A member by the name of "Chris" on this board had taken his ITR out to the track only to find the 4 Allen bolts unloosen and give it an unsturdy balljoint sliding to FULL positive.

In my case, my balljoint had "unpressed" itself and the boot had literally (almost) ripped/deteriorated. My FACTORY balljoints were in better condition than than of Skunk2. 140K miles VS 6k miles.

The spring that retains the boot to the balljoint had deformed and fell off.

Something else I observe from that JDM camber kit is that balljoint seems more secure. Also could be bad because of the balljoint fails, if ever, Appears you would have to replace the entire unit, which could be costly. But for a racer who knows what they need and want, price wouldnt matter.
Reid is right, the are absolutely race parts, to compensate different camber for different conditions. Not all tracks or highways require the camber that we want to deplete.

So, according to Reid, dont get the camber kit since you dont have a race car and dont see much track time. I only see 2 track events a year so maybe I should return all my suspension components because I dont see track time as much as he does.

DC2ITR, hope this is much help. Good luck on your camber kit venture.

 

Did you get the camber kit to add or remove camber?

 

Both, sooon

 

a sport
damn those thing cost lots of mula

 

I've had no problems with the junk2 balljoints. They deteriorate quickly if you bottom out the a-arm though. Look at the top of your wheel well to see if you are bottoming out.

I have had major issues with keeping the ball joint boss from sliding. Full negative, toed in. I would have LOVED if the boss slipped full positive and toed out. At least it would turn. Destroyed 4 2 day old 225/45-15 Hoosiers now from this problem.

Warren

 

Oh yeah. Re: A Sports. Spherical bearings do not belong on the suspension of any street car.

Warren

 

you need some S-GT Spec Camber kits

 

Warren,

Educate the uneducated, but you are saying these are bad for the street because of ride comfort?

 

Ride comfort, noise, and the fact that they would have to be changed out quite frequently.

Warren

 

ingalls .. perfect for what you want it for