This is simple enough, my power locks in my Sedan last night worked for the FIRST time ever in 8 years last night; then they stopped. My car at the time had a low battery and could not start, and during this period all four locks worked flawlessly. The second I jumped the car to start it, the locks ceased working and haven't since worked.

I am willing to paypal $25 to the person who can actually give me a direct answer to why these don't work. If you say "check the electrical connections," you don't win; we know it is an electrical issue. If you say "juggle a chainsaw and squint" and it works, you win. If you tell me, "Look at the schematic at pin 47, connector 4 for looseness," you will win if that is the culprit. What I am looking for is the following:

1) Wiring schematic for all 4, count them, 1 2 3 4 locks on a 1990 USDM LX Sedan.
2) A good place to start looking for the systems grounds, live feeds, etc. I know the system worked, now I have to figure out what was preventing it from working before and what allowed it to work when there wasn't enough juice to start the car.

 

Check the fuses and make sure they are the size?

 

All fuses are in place and all are the correct size.

 

The only other solution I can offer is that one of the wires for your locks is touching another wire that is shorting the whole thing out.

Maybe once the battery was nearly dead the other wire didn't have enough power to short it out?

I'm having another day of no sleep, so this is all super science to me.

 

Good suggestion, it may not be valid but it gives me some ideas. Now what we need is a the actual diagram and not one from a CRX or JDM Spaceship but for a sedan so I can start tracing.

 

Have you tried replacing the power door lock relay? Does te car have an after market alarm? If so I know shops like to splice into the main power door lock wires coming off the master switch so all doors will lock/unlock upon activating/deactivating the alarm.

 

The power door lock relay has been replaced with a new unit two years ago, and yesterday was the first time I got my money's worth. There is no alarm in the car, nor any remote locks or other fancy security measures (please don't steal my car ).

 

Ok we know the door lock motors are good because they worked,and we know the driver switch is good because it worked at low voltage,does the pass. side have a main switch also? If just thinking out loud here you have a pass. side switch and let just say it's bad are going bad your main switch might not work are the locks for that matter because it is not make a complete circut,now why at low voltage I have no idea,but I will think about this today and if I come up with anything else I'll let you know and I might be able to get you a elec. service manual from honda for your car I'll check on that today for you.Got a good buddy that works in service at our honda here and has already got me a service and elec. manual for my hatch.Oh one more thing why did your battery die?

 

Negative, the only main switch is on the drivers side. The passenger only has power window control for their window.

That would be great.

Hell if I know, lately it has been acting up where the engine will turn over but for some reason the car won't start. And I can keep playing this game until I give it a jump and it is fine. Other times the game can be won by turning it over a few times, stopping, and immediately trying again and it will fire right up. The problem occurs at random intervals, so I can't say "Well if I do this it will start and if I do that it won't."

 

The start thing maybe your dizzy going out,maybe or main relay acting up do you here the three clicks of the relay when turning on? You should here three clicks when you turn key on if not,could be dizzy crapping out on you.

 

It could be the relay, I last changed it with a new piece in 2003 and I don't exactly know what the service life of a new relay was. I'll have to open it up and see any damage. The distributor I am actually planning on changing shortly since more oil is coming out of the internal seal in the housing than the Exxon Valdez.

 

Sounds like someone needs to give there car a lil love,just playin with you but that diff. is where your problem could be with that now said, back to this locks i'll be in touch with that.

 

I say that all the damn time, I went from a preventative maintenance / modifier to a reactionary one when $$ went tight. But just talking about it was enough to get me off my *** and I just picked up a replacement TD-42U from Distributor King. I had one of their D16A6 replacements back in 2004/05 and had absolutely no complaints.

 

That what the hell i'm talkin about lets get it done! Gotta keep the ol'sckool on the road....lol

 

so i take it they unlock all four doors with the key, or atleast are supposed to?

and this never happens, but it did happen this one time. correct?

 

I don't know about with the key, since I was inside the car at the time waiting for a jump. It has never happened, ever, ever, ever, ever, before yesterday and promptly stopped immediately after the jump. I was actually enjoying using them during the time I had to play with them.

 

ask and you shall receive.. it sounds like a loose wire, but obviously you know that. could be as simple as the main ground for the whole system, but you'll have to look through everything till you find the culprit.





ground distribution



the common ground is G401, which is located behind the driverside kick panel.

 

Thanks for the images, I will take a look behind the kick panel later and report my findings.

Hopefully it isn't bees.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtcSN3fRFP0

 

ha, yea that would be unfortunate

 

After reviewing the schematic, I have some thoughts.

Currently, and has always been, when you push the door switch you get a very polite click from the relay. It also shares a connection with the power window, which is the happiest power window in the world bar none. The power door lock actuator on the other hand has its own circuit which connects with the others at S602. Could this S602 Connection be the weak point?

 

No sedan service anything for your car sorry bro...good luck if I come up with anything esle I'll let you know.

 

Thanks, worst case scenario if we can't find a solution is I have to go to the stealership and spend umpteen-infinity-quatrillion dollars (plus or minus two).

 

I had a car in my shop with similar problems. Turned out to be the wires running through the boot in the door jamb had a break in them from the years of opening the doors up. I hope this helps.

 

along with the kick panel ground there is another which is the driver side headlight ground (g301).

I suggest putting that $25 towards a helm manual.................fixing it yourself.................priceless

 

I had one of those back in 2003, about as useful for the questions I had as having a third eye on the bottom of my foot

Noted.