So the engine's in, I've sorted out the oil problems from months ago and I'm just now not being a lazy bastard and trying to fix the last of the codes from the swap.

A boomslang OBD0 MPFI to OBDI VTEC subharness was used in the transition.

The Electrical Load Detector (20) I'm sure is due to the fact that the CRX doesn't have the sensor in the fusebox, so it'll get disabled when I chip the P72. Fine.

The Cylinder Position Sensor (9) I'm pretty damn sure is due to a faulty "new OEM quality" distributor I picked up from a dude on craigslist (****ing craigslist). New dizzy should solve the problem, although I am tempted to check the CYP wiring before doing this just to be sure.

The Vehicle Speed Sensor code (17) is my biggest problem here. I'm running a YS1 cable tranny with a cable VSS that is plugged into my speedo and the tranny. Speedometer works fine.

I don't have the tiny C clip that holds onto the VSS cable, but AFAIK that wouldn't effect throwing a code or not since the signal should be coming off the cluster and going to the ECU.

My question is - what would be doing this then? I take it the wire from the cluster isn't feeding the proper pulse to the ECU because either

a) there is a harness issue either between the conversion harness or the original harness and the dash (but there wasn't a VSS code before the swap).

or

b) the cluster is somehow faulty and I should find a replacement

or

c) I've got an ECU issue (doesn't seem likely, but another OBDI ECU could test this)

Any recommendations on where I should dive in or ideas on what might be going on exactly? I've got something of a handle on this but I'd love some input from someone with more experience. I hate electrical with a passion (this being why I had someone else do the wiring up for me).

Thanks!
George

PS Yes I searched, didn't come up with the conclusive answer on the VSS that I'd have liked.

 

You probably did the repinning of the chassis plugs incorrectly. Double check that part, I got code 9 and that was the issue, a couple of the plugs you repin are related to that. Also getting code 20 is not normal. I'm willing to bet this is all conversion wiring related.

 

I'll start digging into it later today, and see what I can figure out. The reason I wasn't thinking that the wires were switched for 9 was it seemed like most people who had that issue had serious bogging (I don't have any bogging issues, steady acceleration - just runs rich and idles rough).

 

Update: Cleared the codes on the ECU, checked the VSS cable and all, cleared the 17.

Still dealing with a 20 and a 9. I'll be checking distributor wiring this evening for 9, then possibly buying another dizzy - anyone got any opinions on Autozone's replacements? Lifetime warranty seems nice.

ELD I saw some articles on here about, evidently the Si should have it? Someone mentioned putting a bigger fuse in (like a 20 as opposed to the 10) for this, but I highly doubt that'd generate a code.