Help me pass emisions! bogging down/crappy idle
I went to try and get my 1992 Dx hatch (auto) tagged so I can put my swap in it and it failed emisions horribly. It started idling funny in the inspection lanes, it acted like it wanted to pull forward with the brake on, I have no tach so I am not 100% on what the rpms were doing. Here's what the results are:
HC (PPM): 480, limit is 220.
Co (%): 2.72, limit is 1.20
Epic fail
lol
Well after i sit and idle for a min or two, it boggs down and wont go anywere, sometimes almost dying. When it does get going it sounds like a damn WRX lol. When its cold it starts up fine takes off fine but after it warms up and I let it idle at a stop it boggs down. I replaced the fuel filter just now and it didnt help the situation. Help me HT lol!
EDIT: occasionally if it give it hell it will stop bogging and take off fine but still sputter slightly? Could it be the dizzy?
HC (PPM): 480, limit is 220.
Co (%): 2.72, limit is 1.20
Epic fail
lolWell after i sit and idle for a min or two, it boggs down and wont go anywere, sometimes almost dying. When it does get going it sounds like a damn WRX lol. When its cold it starts up fine takes off fine but after it warms up and I let it idle at a stop it boggs down. I replaced the fuel filter just now and it didnt help the situation. Help me HT lol!
EDIT: occasionally if it give it hell it will stop bogging and take off fine but still sputter slightly? Could it be the dizzy?
I would first clean the inside of the throttle body and throttle plate. It would also be a good idea to clean the idle air control valve(s) if you feel comfortable performing the maintenance yourself. To test your ignition, either purchase a spark tester or:
Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire and hold the plastic deep-well tube at the very tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts away from the plug, motor and car body. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.
The procedure is similar when using a spark tester. If you can't find the problem, you can also test the MAP sensor voltage and compression.
Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire and hold the plastic deep-well tube at the very tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts away from the plug, motor and car body. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.
The procedure is similar when using a spark tester. If you can't find the problem, you can also test the MAP sensor voltage and compression.
i just bough a automatic four door acouple of days back and noticed this issue too same as you describe i was thinking my fuel pump is going out or my dizzy.
Okay well, the motor blew the headgasket. No big deal really, was going to pull the motor anyway. Am probably going to swap the fuel pump just to be on the safe side from my del Sol when I put my LS in because I know its good, still didnt figure out what was making the d15 run horrible, or it was prob the headgasket
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i had a problem close to that and i pulled my fast idle thermo valve and its components in side are threaded and weren't in. when u pull it off theres a plate with 2 screws and once u take off mine fell straight out when it wasn't supposed to,but i screwed it back in and cleaned everything good with brake cleaner and let dry for bout 20 mins b4 i put it back in the it ran good
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