I have a 96 Accord, 4dr, dx, f22b2 engine. I'm trying to put on a new distributor.

Do you have to take the front wheel off to gain access to the crankshaft to set TDC? I can't see how else to do it. Is there an easier way to set that first piston to TDC? I know all about the marks for TDC, I just can't figure out how to access it in the first place. All the other posts I've searched for quickly mention lining up the lines etc..., I just don't know how to get to it in the first place, and I'm hoping I don't have to tear a bunch of things off to get to it.

Thanks

 

there is another way. it requires a leak down tester.

basically you want to take the spark plug out of cylinder one. then take a skinny extension/antenna/something like those two <<< and let it sit on top of the piston. and watch whatever you put in there rise up and once it start to go down turn it back and that will be around TDC. the problem then is are you on the compression stroke or the exhaust? well you will know when you hook the leakdown tester up to it because when the shop air/compressed air is applied to it the engine will actually move down if in the exhaust stroke. if it is on the compression stoke it will stay there. that is the actually procedure to do a leakdown test.


........besides that.....nothing else I know of. you have to take the wheel off. then the upper and lower timing cover so you can read the "marks".

PIA.

 

I'm all down for the placing a skinny extension inside the first cylinder. Question is, can I move/access the crankshaft pulley without taking the wheel or timing cover off?

 

Turn your driver front wheel all the way to left you should see the splash shield. Now get your longest extensions and your 19mm socket (not sure) and turn counterclockwise.

There is no need to remove to remove your tire or lower timing cover to access the crank pulley bolt.

# 5 is the splash shield I'm referring to, when you turn your steering wheel all the way to the left you'll see an opening for the crank pulley bolt, It kinda resembles a star.

 

You can also rotate the engine by any of the drive belt accesories......A/C, P/S, Alt.

Many people use the P/S though.

 

you do not need to set the engine to TDC to install a new distributor. the distributor only goes on one way, the key in the cam is shaped specifically so you cant mess it up. just note that the dizzy should slide in smoothly and sit flat against the head so dont force it in the wrong way. then you need to set the ignition timing with a timing light.

so in the end you shouldnt need to even turn the crank pulley bolt

 

Are you sure? Chilton guide says to set TDC. I have a 2.2L f22b2.

 

when I did my distributor, It was a pain getting my car started even though the notches on the distributor are 180 degrees, sometimes the installer may accidentally spin the notch and you have to put the engine @ TDC to get it started.

It's not a big deal, before you remove the distributor rotate crank to TDC and remove distributor.

Easy as pie.

O, as stated in the quote above, make sure you draw a line marking the exact location of the timing on the distributor, that way you won't need to fix the engine timing.

 

What do you do if you replaced the O-Ring Seal and didn't set TDC? The best way to do it is by removing the spark plug in #1 Cylinder and the feeling for "TDC"?

 

Maybe I'm not seeing the problem but why not just use the TDC marks on the lower timing cover? Stick an extension or whatever into the #1 cylinder spark plug hole and turn the engine with the PS pully bolt until the single crankshaft pully notch - painted white if the paint's still there - lines up with the plastic indicator and the #1 piston is up.

Maybe the new, aftermarket distributor is slotted, but on my '96 LX it isn't; the base timing isn't adjustable.