cant remove rack n pinion hoses
Have you tried loosening them from up top from the driver's fender?? Thats how I got them off. My partner and I did rack and pinion a '95 V6 Accord EX in Auto Tech class. It wasn't too bad except for that cramped up space that you have to loosen up the pwr steering lines. You wanna use a line wrench cause if you stripped them, you're in trouble.
I have this same question, for a 1994 Honda v4, not v6. The v6 lines face the driver fender well. But in the v4 they face the other way. What a pain in the neck.
I disconnected the fuel rail and moved it aside. That lets me reach them from above. But I can only use short wrenches and I cannot get enough leverage to break them loose. I guess 1994 was a long time ago...
I disconnected the fuel rail and moved it aside. That lets me reach them from above. But I can only use short wrenches and I cannot get enough leverage to break them loose. I guess 1994 was a long time ago...
I've had the same question. I've searched and searched on this and haven't turned up anything.
The manual implies that there's enough room without removing anything, but access is horrible. I have a '97 with a 2.3. I didn't realize it at the time, but I should have replaced the rack when I had the engine out. But, with the engine in, it seems like the best way to do it with the 4 cylinder motor might be to remove the intake manifold. It shouldn't be this hard, but there's almost no room, and I am not big-boned by any stretch. I can't imagine trying to do the job on a v6.
I was also thinking about removing the inner fender liner and wheel to gain access. That's not too difficult to do, but I'm not sure if there's any real benefit.
The manual implies that there's enough room without removing anything, but access is horrible. I have a '97 with a 2.3. I didn't realize it at the time, but I should have replaced the rack when I had the engine out. But, with the engine in, it seems like the best way to do it with the 4 cylinder motor might be to remove the intake manifold. It shouldn't be this hard, but there's almost no room, and I am not big-boned by any stretch. I can't imagine trying to do the job on a v6.
I was also thinking about removing the inner fender liner and wheel to gain access. That's not too difficult to do, but I'm not sure if there's any real benefit.
There may be a better way, but here's what I did. I loosened the fuel rail, removed the EGR vacuum hose on one end and the small fuel line on the other. This let me shove the fuel rail about 2 inches out of the way and got rid of the most obstructive hose in the path to the lines.
I couldn't generate enough torque to get the lines out. My son, Ben, was able to break the 14 mm flange nut using a flare wrench powered by a crowbar and sledge hammer. For the 17 mm flange nut, Ben held the wrench from underneath while I applied the crowbar and sledge hammer.
I couldn't generate enough torque to get the lines out. My son, Ben, was able to break the 14 mm flange nut using a flare wrench powered by a crowbar and sledge hammer. For the 17 mm flange nut, Ben held the wrench from underneath while I applied the crowbar and sledge hammer.
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jmoe7135
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Feb 9, 2014 12:44 AM
bigfigman
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Jul 8, 2007 10:27 AM





