94 ACCORD F22 to F23 MOTOR
I CURRENTLY HAVE A F22 IN THE CAR RIGHT NOW AND IS PLANNING TO CHANGE THE SHORT BLOCK TO A F23 ONE. WILL IT HAVE IT PROBLEMS BOLTING ON? WILL I ALSO NEED A NEW ECU FOR THIS TO PASS SMOG? TY
your f22 OBDI, f23 OBD-II, new ECU, shouldnt really have too much problems installing motor, has been done before. you can check out accordtuner.com, cb7tuner.com, cd5tuner.com
IDK why you would wanna even waste your time for .1L. Unless your 2.2 is worn down. And F23 is non vtec compared to F22 bein vtec, if thats whatcha got.
One thing you may consider, Accords 98-02 have integrated immobilizer in the ECU. You will need to find a way to bypass it, or get a full kit with original key/ECU combo.
Add some wiring since it's an OBDII.
Add some wiring since it's an OBDII.
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f22b1 vtec
f23 vtec
whats your budget right now
It's probably going to cost you more than that to swap an F23 short block into your car. It would probably be cheaper to buy a complete 94-95 F22B* and drop it in. No need for ECUs no need for a head gasket or moving wires. It's a straight drop in.
Are you going to be doing all the labour yourself?
Are you going to be doing all the labour yourself?
It's probably going to cost you more than that to swap an F23 short block into your car. It would probably be cheaper to buy a complete 94-95 F22B* and drop it in. No need for ECUs no need for a head gasket or moving wires. It's a straight drop in.
Are you going to be doing all the labour yourself?
Are you going to be doing all the labour yourself?
It's not stamped F22B1. It is stamped F22B but it's still the same 2.2L SOHC VTEC.
List of things you will need
1.no matter what you WILL need to change the ecu to a 97 ex accord that corresponds with the transmission of the old one. Auto 94-96 ecu---->auto 97 ecu and vise versa. This is because the f23a is an odb2 engine and the CD5 had odb2 from half of 1996 to all of 1997. You'll also need to wire in the Vtec from the solenoid to the new ecu. Go to the junkyard and unpin the Vtec wire from the ecu end of the engine harness (should be under the passangers side foot-well)
2.Both the intake and exhaust manifolds to prevent any modifications to the engine harness.
3.You'll need the old power steering pump and bracket.
4.You'll also need the old alternator and bracket as well as the old distributor and ignition coil.
5.You can use the old transmission but you WILL need to swap the torque converter from the old engine, granted that you're doing an auto swap. My car was an auto so I don't know how it will be for a standard.
6.you CAN use the old motor and tranny mounts but it's recommend to buy new one's because it more than likely that you'll break one or more while removing them (happened to me).
7.Make sure that all the sensors aren't loosely connected and that all the vacuum lines are properly hooked up. Especially the crank position sensor behind the crankshaft. Mine wasn't connected all the way which had prevented me from being able to start my car for almost a week.... Lol figured.
8.After you successfully drop in the motor and hook everything up, start to car and see if you get any engine codes. I wouldn't be surprised if you have to replace a sensor of some sort.
So in conclusion, make sure that everything is hooked up correctly, swap both manifolds, change the ecu to support Vtec, and replace any sensors that throw a c.e.l. .
After all that you SHOULD pass emissions. Atleast in Cali...
-Californiacd5
Just a note, If you are looking for a cheap engine swap to replace advantage dead engine this works. However, keeping the stock F22B2 or F22B1 intake and exhaust manifolds will pretty much nullify any of the hp or performance gains of doing this swap. Also if you have an OBD2B (late 96) chassis you can take full advantage of using an ECU for an F23 with the use of the 98-02 engine harness.
I swapped my 97 accord Lx from f22b2 non Vtec to a f23a Vtec
List of things you will need
1.no matter what you WILL need to change the ecu to a 97 ex accord that corresponds with the transmission of the old one. Auto 94-96 ecu---->auto 97 ecu and vise versa. This is because the f23a is an odb2 engine and the CD5 had odb2 from half of 1996 to all of 1997. You'll also need to wire in the Vtec from the solenoid to the new ecu. Go to the junkyard and unpin the Vtec wire from the ecu end of the engine harness (should be under the passangers side foot-well)
2.Both the intake and exhaust manifolds to prevent any modifications to the engine harness.
3.You'll need the old power steering pump and bracket.
4.You'll also need the old alternator and bracket as well as the old distributor and ignition coil.
5.You can use the old transmission but you WILL need to swap the torque converter from the old engine, granted that you're doing an auto swap. My car was an auto so I don't know how it will be for a standard.
6.you CAN use the old motor and tranny mounts but it's recommend to buy new one's because it more than likely that you'll break one or more while removing them (happened to me).
7.Make sure that all the sensors aren't loosely connected and that all the vacuum lines are properly hooked up. Especially the crank position sensor behind the crankshaft. Mine wasn't connected all the way which had prevented me from being able to start my car for almost a week.... Lol figured.
8.After you successfully drop in the motor and hook everything up, start to car and see if you get any engine codes. I wouldn't be surprised if you have to replace a sensor of some sort.
So in conclusion, make sure that everything is hooked up correctly, swap both manifolds, change the ecu to support Vtec, and replace any sensors that throw a c.e.l. .
After all that you SHOULD pass emissions. Atleast in Cali...
-Californiacd5
List of things you will need
1.no matter what you WILL need to change the ecu to a 97 ex accord that corresponds with the transmission of the old one. Auto 94-96 ecu---->auto 97 ecu and vise versa. This is because the f23a is an odb2 engine and the CD5 had odb2 from half of 1996 to all of 1997. You'll also need to wire in the Vtec from the solenoid to the new ecu. Go to the junkyard and unpin the Vtec wire from the ecu end of the engine harness (should be under the passangers side foot-well)
2.Both the intake and exhaust manifolds to prevent any modifications to the engine harness.
3.You'll need the old power steering pump and bracket.
4.You'll also need the old alternator and bracket as well as the old distributor and ignition coil.
5.You can use the old transmission but you WILL need to swap the torque converter from the old engine, granted that you're doing an auto swap. My car was an auto so I don't know how it will be for a standard.
6.you CAN use the old motor and tranny mounts but it's recommend to buy new one's because it more than likely that you'll break one or more while removing them (happened to me).
7.Make sure that all the sensors aren't loosely connected and that all the vacuum lines are properly hooked up. Especially the crank position sensor behind the crankshaft. Mine wasn't connected all the way which had prevented me from being able to start my car for almost a week.... Lol figured.
8.After you successfully drop in the motor and hook everything up, start to car and see if you get any engine codes. I wouldn't be surprised if you have to replace a sensor of some sort.
So in conclusion, make sure that everything is hooked up correctly, swap both manifolds, change the ecu to support Vtec, and replace any sensors that throw a c.e.l. .
After all that you SHOULD pass emissions. Atleast in Cali...
-Californiacd5
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