GSR tranny With B16
hey i have a 93 civic ex and i was wondering if i can just drop in a gsr tranny with a B16a without doing much modding? i am in trouble cause my car is about to break with the old tranny and i need to figure out what i am going to do with my car before it blows up!!!! thanks alot
No, you need the complete (long block) engine, tranny, axles, engine wiring harness, engine mounts, shift linkage, and ECU (the engine computer).
Unless you already have a GSR tranny just sitting around, your best bet is to buy a "complete swap", where the seller has all the gear you'll need already gathered ready to go. In Calif., engines must be the same year or later to be legal, and since your car is a 93, you want an engine that is OBD-I compliant. Don't bother messing with an OBD-II (96+) engine. Thus, your most reasonable choices are:
'93-'95 b16a swap (revs really well but has less torque, and is cheaper/more economical)
-or-
'94-'95 b18c swap (less revable but more torque, and more expensive)
In general, your best bet with the b16 is to get the lower-geared tranny that normally goes with it. You'd be doing higher rpms cruising on the freeway than you would with a GSR tranny, but this isn't a concern because the b16 has a shorter stroke than the b18c and can therefore easily handle the extended higher rpms on the freeway. With a GSR tranny, you'll get slightly better highway gas mileage but the lower torque of the b16 is gonna hurt acceleration, and you'd have a tough time beating a stock 99-00 Si despite the fact that your car weighs less. So stick with a matching engine/tranny combo and you'll have a sweet ride with either b16a or b18c. Hope this helps.
Unless you already have a GSR tranny just sitting around, your best bet is to buy a "complete swap", where the seller has all the gear you'll need already gathered ready to go. In Calif., engines must be the same year or later to be legal, and since your car is a 93, you want an engine that is OBD-I compliant. Don't bother messing with an OBD-II (96+) engine. Thus, your most reasonable choices are:
'93-'95 b16a swap (revs really well but has less torque, and is cheaper/more economical)
-or-
'94-'95 b18c swap (less revable but more torque, and more expensive)
In general, your best bet with the b16 is to get the lower-geared tranny that normally goes with it. You'd be doing higher rpms cruising on the freeway than you would with a GSR tranny, but this isn't a concern because the b16 has a shorter stroke than the b18c and can therefore easily handle the extended higher rpms on the freeway. With a GSR tranny, you'll get slightly better highway gas mileage but the lower torque of the b16 is gonna hurt acceleration, and you'd have a tough time beating a stock 99-00 Si despite the fact that your car weighs less. So stick with a matching engine/tranny combo and you'll have a sweet ride with either b16a or b18c. Hope this helps.
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ok thanks alot, well my idea was to buy a b16 sir2 from honda motors online for 900 which comes with a lot of that stuff and then just a gsr tranny i could get. but the full b16 changeover is 2450 so i thought it would be cheaper this way. i am basically trying to get the best changeover for the least amount of money cause i am only 16 and work about 3 to 4 days a week. any more input is really appreciated, thanks alot
That HAS to be the best "first post" I have ever seen.
No, you need the complete (long block) engine, tranny, axles, engine wiring harness, engine mounts, shift linkage, and ECU (the engine computer).
Unless you already have a GSR tranny just sitting around, your best bet is to buy a "complete swap", where the seller has all the gear you'll need already gathered ready to go. In Calif., engines must be the same year or later to be legal, and since your car is a 93, you want an engine that is OBD-I compliant. Don't bother messing with an OBD-II (96+) engine. Thus, your most reasonable choices are:
'93-'95 b16a swap (revs really well but has less torque, and is cheaper/more economical)
-or-
'94-'95 b18c swap (less revable but more torque, and more expensive)
In general, your best bet with the b16 is to get the lower-geared tranny that normally goes with it. You'd be doing higher rpms cruising on the freeway than you would with a GSR tranny, but this isn't a concern because the b16 has a shorter stroke than the b18c and can therefore easily handle the extended higher rpms on the freeway. With a GSR tranny, you'll get slightly better highway gas mileage but the lower torque of the b16 is gonna hurt acceleration, and you'd have a tough time beating a stock 99-00 Si despite the fact that your car weighs less. So stick with a matching engine/tranny combo and you'll have a sweet ride with either b16a or b18c. Hope this helps.
Unless you already have a GSR tranny just sitting around, your best bet is to buy a "complete swap", where the seller has all the gear you'll need already gathered ready to go. In Calif., engines must be the same year or later to be legal, and since your car is a 93, you want an engine that is OBD-I compliant. Don't bother messing with an OBD-II (96+) engine. Thus, your most reasonable choices are:
'93-'95 b16a swap (revs really well but has less torque, and is cheaper/more economical)
-or-
'94-'95 b18c swap (less revable but more torque, and more expensive)
In general, your best bet with the b16 is to get the lower-geared tranny that normally goes with it. You'd be doing higher rpms cruising on the freeway than you would with a GSR tranny, but this isn't a concern because the b16 has a shorter stroke than the b18c and can therefore easily handle the extended higher rpms on the freeway. With a GSR tranny, you'll get slightly better highway gas mileage but the lower torque of the b16 is gonna hurt acceleration, and you'd have a tough time beating a stock 99-00 Si despite the fact that your car weighs less. So stick with a matching engine/tranny combo and you'll have a sweet ride with either b16a or b18c. Hope this helps.
haha...thanks
I just remember when I was a greenhorn to the world of auto tech how frustrating it was to ask an experienced mechanic or tech person how to upgrade something and they'd give a lazy response like "Oh, you just unbolt this and the new one fits right in its place" and it would turn out to be 10x more complicated than they made it out to be.
So I think its important to tailor our help to the experience level of the person doing the work.
Thanks for the welcome to the board.
I just remember when I was a greenhorn to the world of auto tech how frustrating it was to ask an experienced mechanic or tech person how to upgrade something and they'd give a lazy response like "Oh, you just unbolt this and the new one fits right in its place" and it would turn out to be 10x more complicated than they made it out to be.

So I think its important to tailor our help to the experience level of the person doing the work.
Thanks for the welcome to the board.
I don't think there's anybody on this board who would try to assemble a full swap by themselves unless they already had half the parts sitting around.
If you try to get it together by yourself, the most money you could EVER save would be $100 and it would take you six months to get everything yourself on the online classifieds for a fair price. It doesn't make any sense to work months just to save that little on sketchy parts which are very likely broken or damaged or don't fit the application. Trust me on this: there are a LOT of ******** in the world that would sell you the engine mounts, axles, ecu and wiring harness from a junkyard 91 Integra and tell you that they're from a Del Sol VTEC because they know you don't know any better. Compare this to HMO where you tell them what you need and you have the peace of mind because you basically have a startup waranty and a guarantee that the parts are legit and will fit your application.
There's no way to go other than a complete swap.
[Modified by GB, 9:28 PM 9/7/2002]
If you try to get it together by yourself, the most money you could EVER save would be $100 and it would take you six months to get everything yourself on the online classifieds for a fair price. It doesn't make any sense to work months just to save that little on sketchy parts which are very likely broken or damaged or don't fit the application. Trust me on this: there are a LOT of ******** in the world that would sell you the engine mounts, axles, ecu and wiring harness from a junkyard 91 Integra and tell you that they're from a Del Sol VTEC because they know you don't know any better. Compare this to HMO where you tell them what you need and you have the peace of mind because you basically have a startup waranty and a guarantee that the parts are legit and will fit your application.
There's no way to go other than a complete swap.
[Modified by GB, 9:28 PM 9/7/2002]
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