95 accord wagon auto to manual swap
is it possible or even worth the effort to swap a 95 accord auto tranny to a manual tranny? theres one for sale with a blown auto and ive always had bad experiances with auto trans so id rather have a manual. i have done an auto to manual swap on a crx before witch wasnt too bad.
i found a few write ups on this but what gen would a 95 be? and i mostly want to know will i have to cut and move mounts and will all the holes be there for the clutch master cylinder and pedals and stuff like that?
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Get a manual transmission mount, transmission, manual frame transmission mount, shifter cables, 3 pedal assembly. Thats your list to get first off.
This has become common among 5th gen Accords in the past few years. There is a bit on here about the swap. If you think you can do it, It's a very straightforward process.
The holes for the clutch master cylinder are stamped in the firewall but not cut out yet. You need a drill bit and a hole saw. The only mount/bracket change required is using a manual transmission mount. No relocation is necessary.
The holes for the clutch master cylinder are stamped in the firewall but not cut out yet. You need a drill bit and a hole saw. The only mount/bracket change required is using a manual transmission mount. No relocation is necessary.
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you're potentially walking down the same exact path as what I did last year. Accord EX wagon with auto transmission problems, and so I swapped it with an LX 5speed. If possible, find a donor car instead of looking around for parts. I know it's a lot to ask for, but if you can find donors that are wrecked from the back but still have good front clips, then all the parts will be right there waiting for you. After you're done you can part the donor car and recoup or even make a few dollars on the side. The only downside is that you'll be staring at that ugly thing in the driveway until you finally get rid of it.
The biggest snag for me was getting the wiring to work reliably. The writeups seem pretty straightforward with what wires to connect, but be careful as there were a few wires of the same color, causing my reverse lights to NOT illuminate.
I had a factory Honda alarm (Chapman Brand) that was causing my car not to start after the swap. At the same time a stereo shop noticed some of the wires I had connected weren't thick enough for the current running through them, so they took out the alarm and fixed some of the wiring.
On the contrary, the transmission mount bracket will also need to be redrilled so that your drivetrain sits level with the new transmission installed. There is an indentation on the existing automatic transmission mount bracket. The rear transmission lines up without drilling, but you'll be missing a hole to bolt it up with the transmission, but this will suffice.
I wanted my swap to be as OEM as possible, and that meant taking out the OEM clutch line. I successfully installed it into my wagon, only to damage it when my friends and i accidentally snagged it while the manual transmission was dangling off the clutch damper area. As a result I forked over about $70 for a line from Parker.
You'll need a bit of patience with snaking the shifter cables over the steering subframe, around the rear mount, and onto the top of the transmission; there's not much space to play around with. Plus, many of the parts in that area have burrs, so be prepared to get some nice lacerations.
Was it worth it? Definitely; the wagon runs well (knock on wood), the shifts are Accord-long but buttery, and with the lighter flywheel, the acceleration is surprisingly good for a 145hp ~3000lb vehicle. I learned a great deal with this project, and feel more connected with the car. Would I do it again? No, after this whole thing was completed, I was SO done with being under a car, being immersed in brake fluid, having caked-up grease/dirt falling onto my face, going to work with blackened hands, being stumped on electrical problems, and having family time taken away. But you only learn by doing, and if you have the time and some money, it's something to be proud of.
Sorry about the biography, but maybe this would shed some light on what you might be expecting.
The biggest snag for me was getting the wiring to work reliably. The writeups seem pretty straightforward with what wires to connect, but be careful as there were a few wires of the same color, causing my reverse lights to NOT illuminate.
I had a factory Honda alarm (Chapman Brand) that was causing my car not to start after the swap. At the same time a stereo shop noticed some of the wires I had connected weren't thick enough for the current running through them, so they took out the alarm and fixed some of the wiring.
On the contrary, the transmission mount bracket will also need to be redrilled so that your drivetrain sits level with the new transmission installed. There is an indentation on the existing automatic transmission mount bracket. The rear transmission lines up without drilling, but you'll be missing a hole to bolt it up with the transmission, but this will suffice.
I wanted my swap to be as OEM as possible, and that meant taking out the OEM clutch line. I successfully installed it into my wagon, only to damage it when my friends and i accidentally snagged it while the manual transmission was dangling off the clutch damper area. As a result I forked over about $70 for a line from Parker.
You'll need a bit of patience with snaking the shifter cables over the steering subframe, around the rear mount, and onto the top of the transmission; there's not much space to play around with. Plus, many of the parts in that area have burrs, so be prepared to get some nice lacerations.
Was it worth it? Definitely; the wagon runs well (knock on wood), the shifts are Accord-long but buttery, and with the lighter flywheel, the acceleration is surprisingly good for a 145hp ~3000lb vehicle. I learned a great deal with this project, and feel more connected with the car. Would I do it again? No, after this whole thing was completed, I was SO done with being under a car, being immersed in brake fluid, having caked-up grease/dirt falling onto my face, going to work with blackened hands, being stumped on electrical problems, and having family time taken away. But you only learn by doing, and if you have the time and some money, it's something to be proud of.
Sorry about the biography, but maybe this would shed some light on what you might be expecting.
I just did it in my 95 base wagon last weekend,I use all parts from my previous 97 cd5,there's some tought thing in this swap but its pretty easy to do,since I did it with only a bunch of hand tool,jackstand and juice,oh and I also put my F20B in it so more to do also,there's only a problem with my vtec not working that I can't figure out what's the problem yet,hope that help.
The rear mount is not the one that needs drilling.
The passenger side mount, the one that's welded to the chassis needs to be drilled.
The existing hole on that mount, the one your auto mount bolt went through, is too low for the manual transmission.
It will work but will cause your drivetrain to sit at an angle, and as a result, you'll be breaking axles.
Look up the 5 speed swap in the FAQ in this forum, it covers all of this very clearly.
The passenger side mount, the one that's welded to the chassis needs to be drilled.
The existing hole on that mount, the one your auto mount bolt went through, is too low for the manual transmission.
It will work but will cause your drivetrain to sit at an angle, and as a result, you'll be breaking axles.
Look up the 5 speed swap in the FAQ in this forum, it covers all of this very clearly.
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