B18A to B18B. DA Motor Blown. HELP w/ SWAP!
My motor blew up on me and I need a replacement motor.
I am considering a swap with possibly a complete change over.
I've looked into purchasing a B18B LS long block with an AUTO-tranny from HMonline (current tranny is also crapped out).
Now this is going to be my first time swapping an engine. Is everything pretty
much plug n play? Any compatibility issues I might run into?
Also, would I need a new ECU if the current one doesn't match up with
my new motor? (OB0 --> OB1) Any performance issues if I do go OBD1? And what's the difference between cable and hydro since I might have to convert to hydro.
Sorry for the plethora of questions, I just want to get as much research in; I really need the car for work and school. It would be really helpful if someone can step me through this as far as proper procedures, accessories/parts to purchase, and things that I can reuse from my B18A.
Thanks in advance!
p.s. budget of $1600.00
I am considering a swap with possibly a complete change over.
I've looked into purchasing a B18B LS long block with an AUTO-tranny from HMonline (current tranny is also crapped out).
Now this is going to be my first time swapping an engine. Is everything pretty
much plug n play? Any compatibility issues I might run into?
Also, would I need a new ECU if the current one doesn't match up with
my new motor? (OB0 --> OB1) Any performance issues if I do go OBD1? And what's the difference between cable and hydro since I might have to convert to hydro.
Sorry for the plethora of questions, I just want to get as much research in; I really need the car for work and school. It would be really helpful if someone can step me through this as far as proper procedures, accessories/parts to purchase, and things that I can reuse from my B18A.
Thanks in advance!
p.s. budget of $1600.00
you can reuse all of the stuff from your b18a on a b18b.. no problem
if you are getting an auto, then you dont have to worry about cable/hydro tranny.. they are talking about the method in which the clutch is activated
you do NOT need to upconvert to obd1 to get the car running.. BUT, if you want to pass smog with the b18b, then you will have to convert to OBD1, which is as simple as having an OBD1 ECU, distributor, and a obd0-obd1 conversion harness
if you are getting an auto, then you dont have to worry about cable/hydro tranny.. they are talking about the method in which the clutch is activated
you do NOT need to upconvert to obd1 to get the car running.. BUT, if you want to pass smog with the b18b, then you will have to convert to OBD1, which is as simple as having an OBD1 ECU, distributor, and a obd0-obd1 conversion harness
DJ: thank you so much for the valuable information.
Now, I wanna convert to OBD1 since i hear there's more potential as far as performance growth capability. For the conversion harness, is it pretty much straight forward matching the wires with the ECU or how does it work...
Just found out as well HM online does not provide the proper ecu for my swap (since I'm going OBD1). Again, the motor is from a 94-01 LS (long block) what type of ECU would I need for the swap? p75...?
SO LOST.
Now, I wanna convert to OBD1 since i hear there's more potential as far as performance growth capability. For the conversion harness, is it pretty much straight forward matching the wires with the ECU or how does it work...
Just found out as well HM online does not provide the proper ecu for my swap (since I'm going OBD1). Again, the motor is from a 94-01 LS (long block) what type of ECU would I need for the swap? p75...?
SO LOST.
Im doing the same swap. all i need to do is extend the fan switch wire.
Plug n play.
And you dont have to run 0bd1 ecu and distributor. but its better to. which I will do soon.
Plug n play.
And you dont have to run 0bd1 ecu and distributor. but its better to. which I will do soon.
the conversion harness (or jumper harness), is something you get from RyWire or someone like that, and it just goes in between the stock connectors to the ecu, and the ecu itself.. if you swapping a vtec motor in, then you have to wire 4 wires for vtec...
plus you have to run 4 wires for the 4wire o2 sensor.. all very straight forward...
You should get a stock ls/rs/gs NON auto ecu thats OBD1.. i dont remember what the code is for it...
plus you have to run 4 wires for the 4wire o2 sensor.. all very straight forward...
You should get a stock ls/rs/gs NON auto ecu thats OBD1.. i dont remember what the code is for it...
unless the engine he gets already has the headers on it and the o2 sensor is already there.
the conversion harness (or jumper harness), is something you get from RyWire or someone like that, and it just goes in between the stock connectors to the ecu, and the ecu itself.. if you swapping a vtec motor in, then you have to wire 4 wires for vtec...
plus you have to run 4 wires for the 4wire o2 sensor.. all very straight forward...
You should get a stock ls/rs/gs NON auto ecu thats OBD1.. i dont remember what the code is for it...
plus you have to run 4 wires for the 4wire o2 sensor.. all very straight forward...
You should get a stock ls/rs/gs NON auto ecu thats OBD1.. i dont remember what the code is for it...
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Yes, the B18B will pretty much come with
- Motor
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Injectors
- Fuel Rail
- Throttle body
- Alternator
- Distributor
I intend on using my DC headers with the O2 sensor and plugs already wired.
The ecu I want is a PR4 I think...if anything go to some junk yard and scrounge for some 94-95 LS ECUs.
DJ: and why would I want to run a non auto ecu? *confused* =o
- Motor
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifold
- Injectors
- Fuel Rail
- Throttle body
- Alternator
- Distributor
I intend on using my DC headers with the O2 sensor and plugs already wired.
The ecu I want is a PR4 I think...if anything go to some junk yard and scrounge for some 94-95 LS ECUs.
DJ: and why would I want to run a non auto ecu? *confused* =o
I had this swap done in my da. Using the same dist and ecu Car runs decently pretty strong other than the fluctuating idle. And i have a cell code 13 wich is the atmospheric pressure sensor. Replaced the ecu and still shoots same code. Overall tho my car runs and has been running for almost a year no no major probs.
Just put the obd0 stuff on the b18b and drop it back in. Probably one of the easiest swaps to do. Basically like taking a motor out and putting the same engine back in.
So just to follow up I've had some help/suggestions from the g2ic community. Fellow member provided a really good post response in regards about my swap:
"i actually just did this with both obd1 (current) and obd2 (spun a bearing after 54.1 miles ) b18bs into a 90 DB1.
the fan switch is in a different location then original. 90-93 is in the back of the block, the 94-01 has it in the t-stat housing. how you convert this is up to you. other then that, the sensors are in the same location. well other then the o2, but thats not dealing with engine sensors .
if your going to use the b18b intake manifold, your going to need to add a few vac lines and splices. if "clean" or "tucked" is your look, this isnt going to be for you. for ease, i would suggest you stick to the b18a intake manifold.
the best place for you to get an engine in norcal, by the way, is engine world (in emmeryville) or attarco (in richmond). both will be far cheaper then any engine shipped up from socal. both those places offer free shipping (locally) and 6 month unconditional warranty. they will ask for a core though, as long as you dont have a whole in the block you should be ok. even if you do, the core charge + new engine is far less then one from hmotors .
as far as transmissions go..... to be honest, i would rebuild the one you have. this will be cheaper for you in the long run. automatic transmissions are finicky and are often very misused. getting a used automatic is probably going to be a headache, if it even works.
so my advice:
used b18b from engine world ($713.36 dropped to your door step)
rebuilt autotragic transmission"
So what are you guy's take on it? I've always thought it would cost a bit more than just buying another transmission if I were to rebuild it. I guess I have to do some more researching!
"i actually just did this with both obd1 (current) and obd2 (spun a bearing after 54.1 miles ) b18bs into a 90 DB1.
the fan switch is in a different location then original. 90-93 is in the back of the block, the 94-01 has it in the t-stat housing. how you convert this is up to you. other then that, the sensors are in the same location. well other then the o2, but thats not dealing with engine sensors .
if your going to use the b18b intake manifold, your going to need to add a few vac lines and splices. if "clean" or "tucked" is your look, this isnt going to be for you. for ease, i would suggest you stick to the b18a intake manifold.
the best place for you to get an engine in norcal, by the way, is engine world (in emmeryville) or attarco (in richmond). both will be far cheaper then any engine shipped up from socal. both those places offer free shipping (locally) and 6 month unconditional warranty. they will ask for a core though, as long as you dont have a whole in the block you should be ok. even if you do, the core charge + new engine is far less then one from hmotors .
as far as transmissions go..... to be honest, i would rebuild the one you have. this will be cheaper for you in the long run. automatic transmissions are finicky and are often very misused. getting a used automatic is probably going to be a headache, if it even works.
so my advice:
used b18b from engine world ($713.36 dropped to your door step)
rebuilt autotragic transmission"
So what are you guy's take on it? I've always thought it would cost a bit more than just buying another transmission if I were to rebuild it. I guess I have to do some more researching!
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