With that said I like the redtop for the extra hp but the blue top is nices b/c of its lower redline. Now my questions are which one is more practical as in finding parts more readily?
Also, price wise?.... If I decide with the bluetop will I need to get CF's rear and front axles since it is AWD?... This is harder than I thought.. I with I could test drive both options....in the USA....
Oh fyi this car won't get boosted it will be a DD but I want to keep her 4 EVER...
Any input thank you.

Grrrrrr ... : I'm so frustrated about making the right choice!!!!

 

Aftermarket support is same as h22. Just buy the longblock and grab a tranny from a prelude ( m2a4, m2s4, m2b4) or accord if u want the better gas milage. They will all mate to any of those motors. Just gotta find the one that suites ur needs.

 

the H22a is more practical. the h23 vtec iis a rare motor, although i have never had the heads and blocks to compare side by side, i would say that you would be happier with an h22a and the lsd transmission that comes with it. you can hold the power and grab the raod with this setup.

its is more practical to get the h22a because of the availability of parts. honda in the us will have a problem matching parts unless you have a comprehensive parts list for the motor if it were ever to break...

 

I love my H22a. Very easy swap.

 

Are your swaps OBD I or OBD II?
I was thinking to stay OBD II for safety/security reasons but I heard to do this u need to find one with the red learning key, matching immobilizer box under the dash and the complete ignition switch (plus the wiring between the ignition switch and the immobilzer box). Any input?

 

If you're California it doesn't matter. You're not going to pass emissions with downconverting it.

*edit*

Also I believe the following rules apply:

- Cannot swap an older motor into a newer car (so a 95 motor can't go in a 96, or 00 motor in a 01)
- Cannot swap JDM motors because of the lack of VIN plates (will be treated as a stolen motor)

And that immobilizer is not something I'd be relying on for security..... You need to read the swap guides in this section and the Prelude section.

 

Emissions is a funny thing, Pre 95 cars can have a check engine light come on while driving, but not with stored codes where it is on from the start. 96 and up cars have to have a properly working obd2 data link to the ecu (which means that you will have to have an obd2 wiring, therefore an obd2 motor).


Ga state law on this matter (no i dont know about other states at the moment) is that you have to show proof of ownership, whether it has a vin tag or not (i believe it wasnt until 99 that vin tags were used on the motors themselves). i would believe that all states are this way, but yet again not completely sure.

immobilizers are good tools if installed properly, kill switches and aftermarket alarms are always helpful.

Cause for alarm

 

To muffinman

I just bar'd my jdm h22a. They normally don't accept jdm motors. But the tech called the main office and gave the go ahead. So I guess it all depends.

 

You should review Cali laws.....OP is in Cali.....they rape everyone with their laws in terms of requirements.

*edit*

And the immobilizer he is referring to is not what you are referencing. The stock ones are based on the key/vin/ecu and can be easily bypassed.

Also vin tags were on at least all 94 + Accord motors

*edit2* And to add on again, keep forgetting stuff, OBDI will store codes at startup - not sure where you're thinking it won't - my H22A that was OBDI (in my OBDII chassis) stored the knock sensor just fine. You can use the SCS service connector to flash the code on the CEL light.

 

You sir lucked out haha - there are probably 100000 threads asking how to do it.

 

i just swapped an JDM H23 into my 98 CL. Easiest swap in the world, and you can use ALL the stock mounts with out really changing ****. I also kept my CL OBD2B and am using a JDM PCB ecu with a SFC. Anyone who tells you that the H23 Vtec is harder then any other H series is bullshitting. If using a JDM ecu , you will loose the function of your DLC so emmisions testing will not happen. But, you can physcially de-sodder the immobilizer chip of your original ecu and transplant it into a USDM prelude ECU

 

I'm in the middle of putting an H23VTEC in my CL. Get a PCB ECU like crx_91si said and it will be easiest way to get the engine running correctly. Good luck with the swap.

 

If you're asking which swap is easier - this is probably easier said than done for the OPer haha.

 

hey honda fans, this is a freekin couincidence, my F23 took a **** and i was almost done puting all my seals on my rebuilt h22. so i had a chioce to fix my sohc head or just hurry up and do my swap before i planed. but now the only thing i am worried about is keeping it obd2, concidering that i need to see a state reff to fix an exhaust ticket that is just in a few days. the prolem is that immobilizer. i want to know if anyone has personaly swaped the chip or done other ways to get around it. i was told to get the system flashed at a honda dealer along with a new key. please help me out here! Thanx!

 

HONDATA. one and only. you can turn on and off the immobilizer, or make your own jumper harness to use a tuned obd1 b16/gsr(below 98) computer.

 

Not disputing, but i dont deal with h/f usdm motors enough to see vin tags. i know my b16 has one, bbut it is a 2000 model.

its not that it cant store codes, its that it will not get passed with the check engine light on from the start up. sorry for the confusion.


so you can add sensor connectivity to the ecu? i never connected my knock sensor.

 

The JDM P13 ECU has a knock sensor input. If you have a chipped ECU most people have it disabled. You just run a wire for the knock to the ECU and it works. You're not able to add a sensor that doesn't already exist in the ECU (which is why like a P28 is so popular, it has everything)

 

hey i have a 98 accord 4cld, 2.3l vtec, i would appreciate more hp, wat would be easier, work on the same engine or do a complete swap? wat would i swap inn? n e help or comments would be greatly appreciated.....thx!

 

Depends on your budget. Like I said before, I love my H22a and it was very easy to swap. Hardest part for me was getting the transmission back on the block since I used my accord transmission.

 

I live on the east coast now.. Maryland.. I like the Type S but $$$$ so i'll stick to the practical H22A. That should keep me happy until I "run" into some money for the H23. Thanks all for the input

 

The H23 has a lower redline probably due to the automatic transmission. I put my H23A on the dyno with a USDM H23 manual trans and it made power till 7200 RPM like the H22.

 

More than likely the H23 has a lower redline due to it's 95mm stroke, vs the H22's 90.7mm stroke.

 

Yeah, I thought about that too, but the JDM B series VTEC with an auto trans also had a lower (roughly 7600 RPM) redline.