92 Civic DX coupe.
D15 motor. Stock everything.

Main bearing in original motor went. Bought a used D15 Longblock with startup warranty. Swapped motors yesterday. Hooked up everything correcty. I have done many swap. went to start it up and it rotates fast like there is no compression and does not start.
I checked for spark and fuel and verified both are good. I does not ever get close to starting. NEVER fires any cylinder at all. (acts like no spark and fuel but that is not the issue) I set #1 to TDC and checked cam timing. found that my Dizzy points at #4 (WTF?)
Dizzy is idiot proof and only goes on one way. Then noticed purchased motor is D15B2 and not D15B7 like the original. I used everything from the B7 (intake, sensors, Dizzy, injectors etc.) There is no mojor differences in the motors are there? I figure D15 is D15 for the most part (internals of engine).
My compression tester is broken. I put my hand over the plug holes w/ no plugs and can barely feel any air (backyard compression test.) Pulled valve cover and found all valves go all the way down and up smoothly. No holes in top of pistons.
I think it is a Cam timimg issue as I can Not find any timing marks on the crank pulley to verify it is correct. Again If I set #1 to TDC Cam is positioned properly but Dizzy rotor is at #4????? No start Rotates fast with no compression. No mechanical issues.
How can you loose compression in ALL 4 cylinders without a catastrophic failure that would be obvious??? Unless the cam timing is off and valves are open???

Please Help
Nick

 

The D15B2 was an OBD0 engine, but as long as you swap all your OBD1 sensors, distributor, injectors, etcetera there should be no problem.

If it is rotating really fast like wiiiiiiirrrrrrrr, and not shug, shug, shug, shug, then you don't have compression.

If the piston, rings, and cylinder walls are all intact then the compression is being lost in the cylinder head.

If your headgasket was blown, it would be a 1 in 10,000,000,000,000 chance that you would lose compression on all 4 cylinders simultaneously.

If your valves, seats, and seals are all sealing properly then the valves are not opening/closing at the right time, and it must be a mechanical timing issue.

Some of the older crank pulleys get worn and a bit rusty. Try running your fingernail around the periphery of the pulley. The timing marks are actually scribed into pulley so you may be able to feel it while not being able to see it. Once you find it, take a paint marker and mark out TDC and 16 degrees BTDC.

If the scribe marks are completely rusted/worn away, then you will have to make new marks.

Take the valve cover off and spin the engine counter clockwise. Never ever spin it clockwise. Watch the valves, and determine when cylinder #1 is at TDC on its compression stroke. That is, TDC right after the intake valves for cylinder #1 close.

Then scribe the TDC mark at the appropriate angle on the crank pulley and mark it with paint so you can see it when you set your electrical timing.

Then move the timing belt appropriately to adjust the mechanical timing to where it needs to be.

Hope this helps, good luck.

 

That is what I am gonna do.

I feel that there is almost no chance of mechanical failure (broken/ worn parts) inside the motor that would cause a loss of compression in all 4 cylinders at one time, without it being very obvious what the issue is. Does every one agree with that?
I have had cars with holes in pistons that still ran, bent all 8 exhaust valves, I have blown rings and still drove home and actuall started everytime. Again NOTHING fires at all, not even a little stumble.

I agree with dokta that is mechanical timing related.

Nick