Im sure somewhere on this site, someone has asked this question. If so, please guide me to its location! So Im fairly new to the Honda world with my first 2000 civic dx coupe (EK from what I've been told!). I know it has a 1.6 non vtec, but I dont know anything about the d16y this....z that....etc. I would really like to build my d series the right way. Im the type of person that like giving the little guys a chance (by little I mean my d series, compared to a b18 etc.) I would love to go vtec, and boost. Would it be fair to ask for a mid-13 1/4 mile daily driven EK? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

 

There will be a lot of people that will tell you not to bother with your D-series, but there are several people on this board that have boosted D-series motors that swear by them. From what I understand, you'll need to turbo the motor and use a fair amount of boost to get a mid-13 sec 1/4 mile time. If you want to run a lot of boost, you need to go with low-compression pistons and replace the rods with forged counterparts. Otherwise, you'll be hating life.

fm

 

after spending a good 5k or more you would deffinateley have a fast *** ride thats gonna be reliable depending on driver and maintanance!if you want something around 200hp-320hp about 2k will do!

 

d series built right, boosted and tuned will b capable of mid 13s but n/a goooood luck,
swap a d16z6 or d15b vtec for 400-700 bucks, IMO they r the 2 best d series

 

guess you've never heard of this guy,

http://www.bisimoto.com/

 

I would love to go boost in the future! If I put on a Y8 head that is port and polished with some good springs, etc. will that raise my compression? I want to keed the D series as long as I can...I love an underdog challenge for me. Im kind of determined to surprise some people in the future!!!

 

There's also www.d-series.org. I've been on there trolling for my 'sol for a little while.

 

13s realiable ez are you planning a build or what! you can probly run that with a stock bottem end & id go wth a z6 or y8 vtec head and a lil boost. My homeyz car ran 13.4 with no tunning.

 

just wait and find a B series with a spun bearing or something and then build it for boost. Top end is fun, but just the little extra low end really helps for around town. You can make a nice turbo setup for $1-2k if you shop around, depending how far you're planning to go with it...forged pistons, I beam rods or just sticking a turbo on and going.

 

any honda motor can be fast , d or b, .. its all in teh hips, its all in the hips... lol

just build it right and u shouldnt have a problem

 

No that will not raise the compression but it will flow better. If your gonna boost you should actually lower compression which needs to be done by replacing the pistons and rods. You should look into some forged pistons and rods if you plan on boosting a lot

 

Actually, I know of at least one high compression turbocharged D-series that is corn-fed and making over 200 hp (gobs of torque from just off idle to redline). The block is obviously well built (con rods), but it is a joy to drive hard.

I also know of several mid-13 D-series that aren't boosted, although those are pretty intensely engineered all-motor builds. That's the wonderful thing about the D-series - they are like legos.

 

there is actually turbo'd D series motors that are running 10s and even 9s and 8s. Check it out on youtube. You just have to be willing to put in the money and do it right the first time

 

lol i was gonna bring up the sick wagon, for some reason i didn't
i was originally goin to reply "unless your name is bisi, good luck" haha

 

Wow....mid 13's no tuning. NICE!!!

 

Does anyone know what is needed to put on a y8 head? Does it bolt right up? Do I need to run an ECU off of an EX or SI? What about the vtec solenoid?

 

Mathmatically speaking, assuming perfect gearing/shifting etc... Mid 13s are doable with ~200hp... Just did some quick math assuming 2300lbs weight and 13.5 et comes out to 184.5hp.... 200hp for the 1.6 is about 2.1hp per cubic inch.. Definately doable n/a! Just be prepared to get into some moderate engine prep/design - bolt ons will not do the trick for you...

Boost mid 13s should be gravy on stock internals assuming proper chassis setup and gearing!

Im about to undertake a na y8 build as part of my engineering thesis! Shooting for min 200hp at the crank! I think with proper funding and design i can manage 200 to the wheels....

 

AS far as the mini goes there is alot of info on this site.. BUt it basically boils down to this:

Head will directly bolt on, just need to get a vtec ecu ( most go down to ob1 p28 via harness adapter, or you can get the ex p2p ecu if you wanna stay ob2), Add some wires to your dx harness to accomodate vtec (or get a ex engine harness), if you stay with the p2p you will also need to accomodate the knock sensor!

 

boosted d series has tons of potential

 

DOWN TO OBD1? WHY IS THAT? WOULD YOU NOT WANT TO STAY OBD2? DO I NEED TO RUN AN OIL LINE?

 

nice thesis

 

Haha same way i feel... But people do it because of installation ease. To stay obd2 you need to accomodate an 02 sensor (unless you wanna drive around with cel on...), which most poeple would rather not deal with. The problem is the y7 block doesnt have a casting bung for one. Im not quite sure what approach honda has taken for these knock sensors (I am only familiar with a 1 wire sensor which just creates a voltage when it is stressted) but im pretty sure if one could find out the voltage the ecu looks for as "normal" you can feed it a constant to satisfy the integrity check... As far as oil line goes it is not required. Unlike the b-series the d series blocks are the same oil passages and all...

In fact now that i think about it, im not even sure why a knock sensor would have more then 1 wire. The resonating crystal inside the sensor creates its own current from harmonic frequencies (vibrations caused from engine) which in turn only requires 1 wire - which is the output back to the ecu... I could see why its possible to add another wire for continuuity to ground, but hat doesnt change the operation of the piezo device.. So, one should be able to monitor the current of a "good" engine in operation and then set up a constant of that voltage down the knock sensor wire....

 

A buddy of mine told me something about a pin that might have to be removed between cyl. 2 and 3. Anyone know about this? I assume for the install of the head.

 

I havent ehard anything about that. There are some pretty complete mini me write ups if you google mini me guide etc...

 

its an oil jet you do have to remove it just screw in a screw and pull it out or something.