so this might be a dumb question but just trying to figure it out..so i bled my clutch like i would brakes, pump 3 time and hold then bleed and repeat till all the air is out. well my car when i put it in gear sometimes tries to pull itself or die like the clutch isnt pushed all the way in and its trying to disengage. my friend was telling me there is a certain way to bleed it but he didnt remember how exactly it was so just looking for some help..thanks

 

had my wife help me. push and hold clutch, open bleed nut, let oil out and close nut. u may have to push the clutch slave cylinder back and forth to get ur pedal to return. i did this after my clutch install and the clutch and components work absolutely perfect. i have A 00 EM1 im about to boost, whats ur set up?

 

stock crank, acl rod and main bearings, eagle h beams, wiseco 8.2:1 pistons (stock bore) and stock head. .5 mm head gasket. turbo is a 60 trim garrett and 440rc's. only on 9lbs right now till i get some little stuff done and can afford a good tune..which i just bought another kit off my buddy some no name stuff but ram horn mani and turbonetics turbo and 470cc rc injectors and im gonna sell my garrett turbo,cast mani,and no name wg and bov if interested...

 

thats what i did tho..just wonder if im gonna have to replace my slave and master cyl. then

 

slave is like fifty bucks A.Z. i dont know about the master. Q. did you do a clutch install or just bleed the system. i ask cause if you did a instal cause my budy had the same prob and his throw out bearing sliped outa position some how. IDK just throwin out ideas. hope it helped.

 

awsome on the engine. B16A2 engine? what tranny are u running? I have a B18A1 ls moter with the B16 trans, boy does she go. i want Vtec though, in a bad way.

 

yea its a b16a2 with stock tranny..it had a fairly new clutch setup in it so i just put a 6 puck disk in it.. slave is 60 and master is 100 priced it at oreillys already just in case lol..but yea vtec is nice heard its better to boost without it and you can pull a better tune without it.

 

i have heard just the opposite on Vtec boosting. ima look into this one! im not spendin the money for a Vtec conversion to boost it and blow it up thnx

 

well just what ive heard, never looked into it.but no problem thanx for helpin

 

Y.W.

 

Why exactly did you need to bleed the clutch in the first place? Did you disconnect a line or something? Was the fluid level low for some reason? Was it leaking somewhere?

 

he put in a six puck. i take it that he disconected the slave to do so. I did not do this on my swap. just unbolted it from the tranny and set it aside. i had to bleed though cause my slave whent bad like two days later. Boostin did u diconnect the hard line fron the slave on the tranny. check that throw out to if you can.

 

I'm trying to bleed mine as well. I've followed everyone's procedures they listed to a "T". The pedal feels good till you press it a couple times, then feels mushy again. The free play is way more than the recommended 1/2 - 1". This is with a new CC stage 5 clutch btw. I don't see any leaks anywhere, but I know this isn't right. I made sure I had a steady stream out of the bleeder. I kept the tube submerged in fluid as well during the process. This is so frustrating.

 

You might need a new slave and CM cylinder.

 

If you just put in a brand new clutch and it's losing pressure then pull the rubber boot off the slave and check for leaks.

 

I had a leaky master and I went ahead and replaced both the master and slave. I used a hand vacuum pump to bleed out the air.

 

The thing is, everything worked fine with the old motor. It's only when I put in the swap that now I can't seem to get the air all out.

 

Almost turned into a post your engine setup thread for a second there.
Ive had good luck with a syringe(the big ones not the ones used to give shots) with a piece of clear hose attached to it. Open the clutch resevior lid connect the hose to the bleeder screw and to the syringe. As your starting to pull out on the plunger open the bleeder screw, continue to pull and close the screw before you finish pulling and run out of room. Repeat

 

Good idea, I will try that tomorrow.
Thanks.

 

Yea we couldnt get a pedal on my bros BMW for anything so we tried this and it worked. Probably will work on those pesky ford internal slave cylinders as well.

 

Like all the fluids in your car its a good idea to flush them from time to time. Clutch fluid and brake fluid are no different. I bleed off all the old fluid in both systems every 80-100k miles.

 

What happens is, your worn out master or slave cylinder don't have an issue pushing around your worn out clutch. Now that you've replaced your worn out clutch your old master or slave cylinder have to work harder causing the old seals in them to leak.

 

Ok, well I bled it again, and still have a mushy pedal. I see no leaks anywhere, and I can see the piston moving the clutch release fork. I guess it's either the MC, or the slave. Guess I'll order both just in case. Are all clutch MC's the same, or are some better, as far as pressure they produce?

 

Just because you can't see a leak doesn't mean the seals aren't bad.

 

I discovered there was fluid around the piston seal by the pedal so I ordered a new clutch MC. If this doesn't fix it I'll get the slave next.