HELP Car Starts then dies
Last night I put a new alt pulley on, the top timing belt cover on, and tucked my drivers side engine bay wires. I was driving for about ten minutes when I got off an on ramp and my battery light and oil light were on and my car engine died. I tried looking at everything but got a tow home from my dad.
I got it home...pulled off the valve cover, positioned the timing belt cover away from the sprocket, looked at the head everything looked good. Pulled the wires sparkplugs dizzey and fuel pump and cranked it over and everything sounded good.
Then I put everything in and it started up and idled for a second at normal idle speed then abuptly stopped. I tried starting it again and the same thing, even when some throttle is applied. My dad is telling me the engine froze
but I dont think it would sound like it did and idle fine for a second.
My engine is a b18a1 bored, with gsr internals, cp pistons eagle rods. The engine only has 400 miles on it. I was not abusing it when it happened I was merely pulling off the highway on ramp.
Any ideas....thanks in advance.
I got it home...pulled off the valve cover, positioned the timing belt cover away from the sprocket, looked at the head everything looked good. Pulled the wires sparkplugs dizzey and fuel pump and cranked it over and everything sounded good.
Then I put everything in and it started up and idled for a second at normal idle speed then abuptly stopped. I tried starting it again and the same thing, even when some throttle is applied. My dad is telling me the engine froze
but I dont think it would sound like it did and idle fine for a second.My engine is a b18a1 bored, with gsr internals, cp pistons eagle rods. The engine only has 400 miles on it. I was not abusing it when it happened I was merely pulling off the highway on ramp.
Any ideas....thanks in advance.
they are injectors for a ls, I did change the fuel pressure regulator. But would a faulty injector cause the engine to do this.
Also I forgot to mention that the spark plugs looked barely on when I pulled over to the side of the road.
Also I forgot to mention that the spark plugs looked barely on when I pulled over to the side of the road.
it would crank and die
try new spark plugs?
do the basic rundown fisrt. do you have spark? fuel? and air? then go from there and see what in not consistent. sounds to me almost like you have a sensor wire that is loose, or the sensor itself... alsmost sounds map sensor-ish. why did the oil light come on?
The plugs are two weeks old. They ran fine before today..pulled them out and cleaned em.
The map sensor has been used for forever on my old motor and it has worked like a champ.
The sensors are all connected but I will be double checking everything tommorow. The oil light came on because the alternator pulley and everything was loose so I believe it was running on the battery alone and thus the battery cel and oil pressure guages lit up.
The motor has been running strong for the past week....until today. And the motor stopped like on a dime. Im going to get my brothers compression guage, and after college check the compression.
It has the be getting spark (because it ran fine before and everything and the dizzy only has 500 miles on it)
The way the motor stops is what is killing me....It almost seems like something is getting caught in the flywheel or something....im going to pull the flywheel cover and take a peek tommorow as well.
Any other things that would make a engine just stop extremely fast?
The map sensor has been used for forever on my old motor and it has worked like a champ.
The sensors are all connected but I will be double checking everything tommorow. The oil light came on because the alternator pulley and everything was loose so I believe it was running on the battery alone and thus the battery cel and oil pressure guages lit up.
The motor has been running strong for the past week....until today. And the motor stopped like on a dime. Im going to get my brothers compression guage, and after college check the compression.
It has the be getting spark (because it ran fine before and everything and the dizzy only has 500 miles on it)
The way the motor stops is what is killing me....It almost seems like something is getting caught in the flywheel or something....im going to pull the flywheel cover and take a peek tommorow as well.
Any other things that would make a engine just stop extremely fast?
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the motor is in the car..so its very hard to turn by hand..I have to use a wrench on the crank pulley. I checked for stuck valve when I took the head off, but everyone is telling me a bent valve. The wierd thing is that when it started last night it cycled through the firing order and then abruptly stopped.
^^May I say wtf to that post.
But the update is I tried spinning the crank by hand...then it got to a certain spot and was hard. Timing was set dead on. So I remove the timing belt then tried turning it by hand and it is still binding at a certain point. Im hoping for a stuck valve....but preparing for the worst...spun bearing or something to that nature. It seems impossible with oem b18b1 bearings...gsr crank...new eagle h beam rods...new cp pistons. If the bearings are junk Im going with ACL race bearings...
Anything else that would cause the crank to be very hard to turn. Checked flywheel and nothing....
But the update is I tried spinning the crank by hand...then it got to a certain spot and was hard. Timing was set dead on. So I remove the timing belt then tried turning it by hand and it is still binding at a certain point. Im hoping for a stuck valve....but preparing for the worst...spun bearing or something to that nature. It seems impossible with oem b18b1 bearings...gsr crank...new eagle h beam rods...new cp pistons. If the bearings are junk Im going with ACL race bearings...
Anything else that would cause the crank to be very hard to turn. Checked flywheel and nothing....
If that is the case then Im probably pulling the block and putting it on the engine stand...and getting a non built bottom end. The only thing I didnt do in my build was have the crank turned and micro polished, or the oil journal. Everything else was bought brand new. Havent pulled the pan off yet...so no jumping to conclusions. But Im thinking that must be what it is. The piston seems to be moving in the correct order...If a rod broke after 400 miles on a break-in...best believe that eagle is going to hear from me and better give me a new set of rods (says they warrenty from defects). I know A buddy i can get a block that has a slight spun bearing (b18a1) so might get that and turn the crank and install some acl race bearings if worse comes to worse.
Since the timing belt was not attached and the valves were closed (since this is a interference engine) and there was still binding in the crank...I think its a mechanical issue. How would the ignitor cause that. Plus its a new gsr dizzy with a new cap and rotor.
you did have the plugs out right (just making sure)??
-anyways-
The ignitor suggestion was related to the "car starts then dies" ... i've seen it happen plenty of times on distributors - just because it's new doesn't mean that there won't be anything wrong with it. Just get a multimeter and check it out; especially if your teardown reveals no issues.
-anyways-
The ignitor suggestion was related to the "car starts then dies" ... i've seen it happen plenty of times on distributors - just because it's new doesn't mean that there won't be anything wrong with it. Just get a multimeter and check it out; especially if your teardown reveals no issues.
you did have the plugs out right (just making sure)??
-anyways-
The ignitor suggestion was related to the "car starts then dies" ... i've seen it happen plenty of times on distributors - just because it's new doesn't mean that there won't be anything wrong with it. Just get a multimeter and check it out; especially if your teardown reveals no issues.
-anyways-
The ignitor suggestion was related to the "car starts then dies" ... i've seen it happen plenty of times on distributors - just because it's new doesn't mean that there won't be anything wrong with it. Just get a multimeter and check it out; especially if your teardown reveals no issues.
if everything is is off and the trans is in nuetral or out of gear(mt) and motor doesnt free spin i say slightly bent con rod or Did you have the GSR crank checked out before intall, i.e. balance and out of round check(bent crank).G.L.
I did not have the crank turned miscropolished or checked for out of round before intial install. I feel dumb now for not having it done but since it ran well without problems I dont think thats the culprit. But def having it balanced and micropolished no matter what since the engine is torn down.
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