Whats needed?

I was on another forums and all they could say is "bad idea, Honda's aren't meant for high reving" but I didn't ask "is it possible to do without mods"

I want to know what mods and what is needed to get a good high rev D16z6 that makes good hp (don't need crazy 300-400hp with turbo, want to N/A with about 200hp should be good, maybe 220 if I can push it). I already know I need new valves and titanium duel valve springs, what else? New pistons? Rods? Crankshaft? Etc?

I know how to turbo, and I know how to supercharge (within reason, light mods etc.) I'm clueless on N/A!!!

 

what forum said honda's aren't meant for high reving?
200hp on a N/A Dseries will cost way to much at the machine shop to be a reliable source of power.

things i'd do:
rebuild head with dual springs, titanium retainers, p&p, oversized valves, brass valve guides
block guard/sleeve, crankshaft lightened and micropolished, forged internals, p&p intake mani w/ port matching.

and a ton of tuning. which might get you to like 180. give or take. someone can correct me if i'm wrong.

 

^^ well said my friend..

 

lol hondas arent made for high reving. Did you ask that on a chevy forum

 

^^ ahaha

 

That's why I came back here. I don't want to put up with complete retards.....

I just like the idea of a high reving engine, like the spoon b16 motors (11k rpm goodness mmmmm).

I know I wont hit 11k with a D series but I wouldn't mind getting around 9k plus power in the full range (hence N/A not boosted)

Its gonna take time, like any project, but this is the first time I've felt strongly about something....

 

the B16B Civic Type R motor's rev limit is 9k at stock.

spoon's b16 has a prototype rod girdle made specificly to spoon's specs. 9k isn't a huge strech for a lil D since there's less rotating parts then that of a B but you won't be making power all the way up there.

just like spoon's motor they only make power to about 10.5k rpm the 11k rev limit they set it so when they shift the power band is there already.

to get that on a torque less little N/A D would to me be a waste of time and money.

with what i mentioned earlier you could rev it to 9k safely but i highly doubt making power that high or any noticable power. Bishimoto would be more knowledgable in this subject.

 

^ Exactly. Yoe could easily build a d series to rev up to 9.5 but you probably wont make power past 7500-8000

 

That's actually not bad, since the stock level of power stops at like 6800rpm stock. That would be a rpm power range boost by 700-1200 rpm. To me that sounds worth it IMHO. Higher rev and better times I can see it now XD.

 

^yea. its gonna cost you though

 

Perfection costs money :D

 

So lets see.

Intake (whale *****, has best power band for ram style and wont have a chance at hydro lock [it rains a lot here])
Intake Manifold (Skunk 2 D series)
Throttle Body (Skunk 2 60mm)
Exhaust (Skunk 2 60mm R exhaust [already equipped])
Exhaust Manifold (skunk2 doesn't make a d series what else is there?)
Titanium Retainers (skunk 2 should suffice)
Dual Valve Springs (skunk 2 again XD)
Camshafts (skunk 2 used to have them, can't find them anymore....)
Pistons (no clue here)
Rods (no clue here)
Crank (no clue here)

and what else is there? Of course there will be tuning at the end, but what else parts wise?

P.S. Yes I'm a skunk 2 nut head. Everything I own from them works and just keeps working perfectly. (and my friends who own skunk2 products as well). I WILL have mostly skunk 2 parts (wish they had a skunk2 d series header :/)

 

Wiseco Pistons, Z6 Crank as for rods just research on what you can afford.

 

have fun spending over 3 grand to gain 40 horsepower on your d

 

uh.............i think u should just get that ctr motor and sell me the z6 and i will build it and race you with it and beat you for what you paid for ctr.... haha wouldnt you be mad if a lilttle single cam beat your b-series

 

I don't want a B? This thread is all about me building my D?

 

Hey gl with build let me know what you end up doing. I'm working on rebuilding my z6 as well. I've gotten a quote for about $800 shipped for pistons/rods/ACL race bearings from Modern Honda so you may want to look into that.

As far as what to do to the engine, I'd go with Edelbrock intake mani and 65mm throttle body(it's designed for the rpms you're looking for) have a good shop do the machine work on the block. Wiesco pistons, Eagle rods(you'll have to notch the block I believe) stock crank should be good to use just get it machined. Comp cams makes a d series cam, Dc sport, hedman and pacesetter all make a header for the z6. Hope this helps a little. Good luck

 

Hey guys, I have a little something for you. From 2005.





After a while it was neccesary to:


I threw something together, a sound clip i had recorded way back when:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iguc0U2npA

Really gets rung out at :35

LOL. Just have fun with this, and keep on top of your oil level. LOL. Its also cool, since VTEC hits much later you actually hear it AND feel it. Its due to the non-VTEC lobes running out of steam before it jumps over, and then the motor hits VTEC, like FINALLY DAMN!!

 

im making 193hp with my mini-me w/out F/I! I think all together i spen a little over 1150 after rebuild and tuning. I will find my dyno sheet and post for the non-believers. my vtec crossover is at 5500 with a cut-off of 9400. I still believe its too high for me, but my tuner said since the way it was built and with the stock(rebuild) d-trans i could stretch it out more.

1st: 0-40 VC-25
2nd: 40-75 VC-57
3rd: 75-114 VC-88
4th: 115---
5th:---

those arent the exact numbers, but that range. you'd be suprise at how many ppl actual dont believe im running a SOHC-V N/A!

 

Give it up man, ditch the Z6 if those are your goals. It has a rev limit of 7200 stock and it stops making power at 6800. 200HP N/A on these motors are not easy at all. Start with something better like a B16A or B18C if you want it to rev that high. Its stupid regardless, its not about how high you can rev its not like the power will keep climbing. Plus you'll need cams to keep making power up high and your idle will be **** and your torque will blow.

 

Dang!! is it the same one midas screwed up?

 

Why must he do what everyone else is doing? He's said multiple times he doesn't want a B series. He's building what he wants to, it's not your money or car.

 

yeaup....bad memories...aghhhhh!

 

This "****ed up idol" your talking about, must come from shitty bisimoto parts. I went to their site like some others mentioned, and I ended up saying "**** no". They list right on there BEFORE you buy their parts where it lists what it will effect for cams and it clearly says "loopy idol" why anyone would buy that is beyond me. Why would skunk 2 have a stage 2 cam for the D series (procivic used to have it before they dumped my del-sol off their "supported cars" list.) and not have a loopy idol, yet you buy bisimoto and it has a loopy idol. It means Bisimoto sucks ***** and I sure as hell ain't buying from them.....

There is a video on youtube of a D series with stage 2 skunk2 cams, and it runs great (no shitty idol). You get what you pay for and I bet half of you shop on egay or craigsshit.

I will build my D and I'll prove you all wrong.

Also, ''''STOCK'''' the D16z6 stops making power after 6800. Changing internals changes this, oh wait you had no clue that happens. Which means when my vtec kicks in at 4500rpm, and then stays on until about 8000rpm if not 9000rpm, it will make power. You need to put parts together that compliment each other, not just buy parts because they are cheap or someone else did it. A fully skunk2 Dseries (cam, intake manifold, throttle body (60mm), exhaust (60mm) and a random header(probably 4-2-1 since it gives better low end)) makes 145 to 168hp (right off skunk2's website....)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 1
• Header
• Skunk2 Stage 1 Cam
• Skunk2 Intake Manifold
• Skunk2 Exhaust
• Skunk2 Throttle Body
Power Ranging From 145->165hp/128->136tq
75.5mm X 90mm 1.6L SOHC VTEC
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
AND WHAT>?

 

Hey, thats cool. If you have the money, go ahead. I love my Z6 I dont plan on swapping a B series anytime soon. I plan on boosting it though. The Z6 is rated at 125HP at the crank stock. Now if you have power steering and A/C that number goes down. Subtract 15% from that number bc of power lost in the transmission and tires,etc. Thats your whp. The motor isnt new either so youre probably starting at what, 110 or something? How did you get 145? 40HP or so with I/H/E and a cam+ throttle body? Far fetched IMO.


I think youre heading in the right direction though, Skunk2 makes good stuff.

You will need new rods and pistons,cam, a tune, intake, header, exhaust all the way back, valves, valve springs, retainers, injectors, fuel pressure regulator, throttle body, port and polish the head, bore the block, deck it and hone it and a blueprint here will go a long way.

I think thats what you would need to achieve your goal of having a reliable 9k revving D16Z6 that makes 200HP or so. What if it had ITB's? Yum!