Sway bars: Suspension Techniques or Eibach?
going to buy some sway bars for my '89 sedan soon and i cannot figure out which kit i should go with! they are the same price and are the same size. does anyone have some insight on which kit i should go with? or if there is another brand i should go with? i have to daily the car and im going to be doing some auto-X events and i hit the touge a lot. any info would be much appreciated!
http://inlinefour.com/eibachswaybars.html
http://inlinefour.com/sustecswayba.html
http://inlinefour.com/eibachswaybars.html
http://inlinefour.com/sustecswayba.html
I use ST rear only but go with ever cheaper and spend money on auto x fun and leave front bar stock.
paid about $125 for rear only complaint would the ST hardware is big and heavy and bar is solid.
looking into a hollow one ? I think tanabe makes one.
I also think you might need to look into you mounting to LCA to see if you even have mounting holes or you might have to change LCA another cost do your homework and make sure it fits your make and model of car.
I think ST makes hardware made mount on shock bolt area if you do not have OEM mount holes already found on Si model CRX
paid about $125 for rear only complaint would the ST hardware is big and heavy and bar is solid.
looking into a hollow one ? I think tanabe makes one.
I also think you might need to look into you mounting to LCA to see if you even have mounting holes or you might have to change LCA another cost do your homework and make sure it fits your make and model of car.
I think ST makes hardware made mount on shock bolt area if you do not have OEM mount holes already found on Si model CRX
i would not spend money on a kit that includes a front swaybar. its not beneficial for better overall handling. you just need a rear bar and only tanabe and ST make it for just the rear. tanabe is made to fit only a Si since it reuses some OEM parts. ST fits regardless, but its pretty clunky.
I am also interested in buying a rear sway bar.. Tyson: do the ef's not benefit from a larger front sway bar? Has anyone experimented with different sized front + rear?
I read that too large of a bar in the rear causes our cars to oversteer.. any other info?
-interested
I read that too large of a bar in the rear causes our cars to oversteer.. any other info?
-interested
i autocross my crx. front engine cars are already very stable in the front. your best setup for a crx would be the rear swaybar and maybe a strut mount. get some dampening struts and run soft rear suspension and normal front. make sure you get some decent slicks. yokahoma makes some good ones but the cheapest u can buy new is prob khumo. the front doesnt need any more support. any more stiffening in the front will cause more understeer. you can adjust the rear struts to your driving skill to soften or harden your rear suspension to compensate any oversteer you feel. will take alot of trial and error for new autocross memebers. good luck, im in the Buccaneer region in southeast georgia. enjoy the 2010 autocross events.
check the rules and regulations. if you have an engine swap, your automaticly in the SSM class which is the all performance super street mod class. pretty much anything goes. you will be running against some tough competitors with turbo's.
what engine mods have you done?
check the rules and regulations. if you have an engine swap, your automaticly in the SSM class which is the all performance super street mod class. pretty much anything goes. you will be running against some tough competitors with turbo's.
what engine mods have you done?
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I am also interested in buying a rear sway bar.. Tyson: do the ef's not benefit from a larger front sway bar? Has anyone experimented with different sized front + rear?
I read that too large of a bar in the rear causes our cars to oversteer.. any other info?
-interested
I read that too large of a bar in the rear causes our cars to oversteer.. any other info?
-interested
i have stock springs with a 22mm rear mugen bar (fits like stock). i found i needed to up the front sway bar to a 19mm sedan (stock is 18mm). was just enough. 22mm front would just be too much. and i get the sedan bars for cheap at the junkyard. so youd be wasting your money with an unuseful part.
whatever opinion that a rear swaybar makes your car unsafe is totally bunk. it does promote oversteer, but its not any more unsafe than the competency of the driver.
Tyson. thanks fot the reply.. out of curiosity.. if people found they run better without bars. why are you running them?
just trying to research before I start experimenting
thanks..
just trying to research before I start experimenting
thanks..
I think it has a lot to do with finding the right balance between front and rear. Sure a front sway bar can promote understeer, but it also reduces lateral lean.
i have run with a front bar and in my opinion, i'll always run front bar. i ran stock class last year with a da front sway,zero toe, a set of koni spss3 shocks, and hoosier's. was there understeer? only if i cooked the corner entry and braked way to late. only thing with the set up i had(50psi all around and full stiff on shocks) is that i would get snap over steer every now and again.
a lot of times the guys that don't run a front bar run a really high front spring rate.
so like what tyson said above, it depends on the driver.
a lot of times the guys that don't run a front bar run a really high front spring rate.
so like what tyson said above, it depends on the driver.
strut bars are a chassis stiffening device, not part of the suspension.
my car is a complete street car. like i said, i use stock springs, with a 22mm rear bar. NO ONE has a setup like mine. and ive tweaked it the way i feel necessary. was just saying ppl have tested different swaybars. ive owned a 22mm front bar, it was absolutely ridiculous in my hands, i never put it on and sold it off.
yup ok, thats what i was thinking to. thanks
good info guys.. I was thinking about a larger front sway bar because my front end always dips (deeper than I'm comfortable with) when I enter a hard corner.. now Im thinking I should consider spring stiffness.. Im on skunk2 full coilovers..
yea, the pillar b-c is prob the best if your trying to increase chasis stiffness.. but your throwing your money away. its more for looks i think. i would invest in an 8 point roll cage if your intended to do that so you will be 1 step closer from going from autocross to club racing 
sorry, im rusty on my engines.. if the d16z6 is the sohc zc engine i believe its still considerered a swaped engine. u will still be in SSM class instead of HS class. and if you put any forced induction on a 2 seater car it automaticly puts you in SSM also.. it sux.. found that out the first day i ran autocross with my ls/vtec pushing 10lbs.
next event i took the turbo off and retuned, and i went up 10 people on azenis.. dont do turbo unless u got slicks.. you peel out too much.. lol..

sorry, im rusty on my engines.. if the d16z6 is the sohc zc engine i believe its still considerered a swaped engine. u will still be in SSM class instead of HS class. and if you put any forced induction on a 2 seater car it automaticly puts you in SSM also.. it sux.. found that out the first day i ran autocross with my ls/vtec pushing 10lbs.
next event i took the turbo off and retuned, and i went up 10 people on azenis.. dont do turbo unless u got slicks.. you peel out too much.. lol..
yea, the pillar b-c is prob the best if your trying to increase chasis stiffness.. but your throwing your money away. its more for looks i think. i would invest in an 8 point roll cage if your intended to do that so you will be 1 step closer from going from autocross to club racing 
sorry, im rusty on my engines.. if the d16z6 is the sohc zc engine i believe its still considerered a swaped engine. u will still be in SSM class instead of HS class. and if you put any forced induction on a 2 seater car it automaticly puts you in SSM also.. it sux.. found that out the first day i ran autocross with my ls/vtec pushing 10lbs.
next event i took the turbo off and retuned, and i went up 10 people on azenis.. dont do turbo unless u got slicks.. you peel out too much.. lol..

sorry, im rusty on my engines.. if the d16z6 is the sohc zc engine i believe its still considerered a swaped engine. u will still be in SSM class instead of HS class. and if you put any forced induction on a 2 seater car it automaticly puts you in SSM also.. it sux.. found that out the first day i ran autocross with my ls/vtec pushing 10lbs.
next event i took the turbo off and retuned, and i went up 10 people on azenis.. dont do turbo unless u got slicks.. you peel out too much.. lol..
That's just something i remember hearing, may not be fact.
i found the solid 19mm pretty much the same as the 23 hollow. no big deal.
I just installed my ST rear sway bar and it makes a lot of clunky noises as Tyson stated. Is this normal or did I install it on wrong? It only makes the clunky noise when I go over speed bumps at an angle or over some bumpy roads. When driving on the highway it doesn't make any noises at all. Overall I did feel a difference in cornering with this installed compared to the stock sway.
I just installed my ST rear sway bar and it makes a lot of clunky noises as Tyson stated. Is this normal or did I install it on wrong? It only makes the clunky noise when I go over speed bumps at an angle or over some bumpy roads. When driving on the highway it doesn't make any noises at all. Overall I did feel a difference in cornering with this installed compared to the stock sway.
you also should space the bushing out a bit with a washer. its squeezes too tight around the bar. 1 washer under each bolt is enough.



