Yet another starting issue..
I just aided a friend of mine in Dropping his D16y8 back into his EK and basically getting everything going. So, motors in everythings buttoned up..we go to crank and..nothing. Cranking? YES..SPARK? Yes...FUEL? No. So I go to the Fuel rail to check if there is Fuel coming at turn of they key..nothing, then I go to the regulator under the hood..no Fuel there either..So first thing I think is...Ok..Bad fuel Pump.
Changed out the Fuel Pump for a new one..try again..NOTHING. So I check the filter..filters fine. So now i'm thinking NO POWER is getting to the Fuel Pump. I check it's fuses (The ones in the cabin), its fine, and I didn't notice anything wrong with the wires leading to and from the fuel pump yet I didn't track them all the way up to the front of the car..has anyone ever had this issue? Could it be a bad wire somewhere in the car?
Changed out the Fuel Pump for a new one..try again..NOTHING. So I check the filter..filters fine. So now i'm thinking NO POWER is getting to the Fuel Pump. I check it's fuses (The ones in the cabin), its fine, and I didn't notice anything wrong with the wires leading to and from the fuel pump yet I didn't track them all the way up to the front of the car..has anyone ever had this issue? Could it be a bad wire somewhere in the car?
Have you checked the fuses? Make sure the PGM/FI relay clicks once when you: Turn the key to ON, When the check engine light goes off, and When you turn the key to start. If the relay doesn't click one of those times, replace the relay.
If there's no clicking at all then that's definately your problem but I'll cross my fingers for you anyway. Sorry for asking if you checked the fuses when you said so in the original post. Must have skimmed over that part.
I agree, probably the PGM-FI Main Relay, but what, there are more then a few things that can be wrong, starting with a fuse.
You said,"I check it's fuses (The ones in the cabin), its fine" what fuse(s) did you check and how?
There are 3 fuses that "power" the the PGM-FI Main Relay, a 12V constant, [hot at all times] a 12V switched, [hot in run and start] and a 2nd 12V switched, [hot in start only].
If all you did was eyeball the fuse(s) when you checked them, that's no guarantee that the fuse is not bad, [defective] it does not have to look blown to be bad.
First thing I would do is test for those powers at the relays plug, [unless I had a known working spare PGM-FI Main Relay laying around].
Sorry, I am pretty sure I do not have a wiring diagram, [color/pin-out] for your friends Civic and definitely not, if it really is an EK, [RHD JDM].
With that said, it makes no difference, if there is a PGM-FI Main Relay there has to be those three powers at the plug, unplug the relay and use a meter or test light at the plug to see if you have all three.
If all three powers are there, note the wire colors, plug the PGM-FI Main Relay back in and test for those powers again, [unplug the starter so you can do these tests without cranking the engine].
If you still have all three powers, test for the power outputs, when ign. switch is turned on to run, there will be one more power, [injector relays output] and for a few seconds another 12V output, [fuel pump relays output] this one can be tricky to find because it is only on for a few seconds at most.
If all the above tests are good the PGM-FI Main Relay is good and I would move to the fuel pump connector and test for power and ground there.
If no fuel pump relay output is found, either the relay is bad or the ECU/ECM is bad, to test, supply a direct ground to the fuel pump relays ECU/ECM input, it will be one of the two leads left over once you eliminate the black lead(s)...
Black is ground for injector relays coil.
There is a 12V constant, possibly yellow/white or white/black.
There is a 12V switched, [run and start] probably black/yellow or yellow/green.
There is a 2nd switched power, [hot in start] probably blue/white.
The injector relays output, [hot in run and start] most likely yellow/black.
All that is left is the fuel pump relays output and the ECU/ECM control input, use a jumper wire to supply a ground to each one, one at a time, [no you can not hurt anything if you supply the ground to the fuel pumps power output lead first, assuming you already know there is no 12V output] if, when you ground the ECU/ECM lead, the fuel pump turns on, you need to check the ECU/ECM or the wiring between it and the PGM-FI Main Relay.
In a pinch you can leave the ECU/ECM input to the PGM-FI Main Relay grounded so the engine will start and run. 94
You said,"I check it's fuses (The ones in the cabin), its fine" what fuse(s) did you check and how?
There are 3 fuses that "power" the the PGM-FI Main Relay, a 12V constant, [hot at all times] a 12V switched, [hot in run and start] and a 2nd 12V switched, [hot in start only].
If all you did was eyeball the fuse(s) when you checked them, that's no guarantee that the fuse is not bad, [defective] it does not have to look blown to be bad.
First thing I would do is test for those powers at the relays plug, [unless I had a known working spare PGM-FI Main Relay laying around].
Sorry, I am pretty sure I do not have a wiring diagram, [color/pin-out] for your friends Civic and definitely not, if it really is an EK, [RHD JDM].
With that said, it makes no difference, if there is a PGM-FI Main Relay there has to be those three powers at the plug, unplug the relay and use a meter or test light at the plug to see if you have all three.
If all three powers are there, note the wire colors, plug the PGM-FI Main Relay back in and test for those powers again, [unplug the starter so you can do these tests without cranking the engine].
If you still have all three powers, test for the power outputs, when ign. switch is turned on to run, there will be one more power, [injector relays output] and for a few seconds another 12V output, [fuel pump relays output] this one can be tricky to find because it is only on for a few seconds at most.
If all the above tests are good the PGM-FI Main Relay is good and I would move to the fuel pump connector and test for power and ground there.
If no fuel pump relay output is found, either the relay is bad or the ECU/ECM is bad, to test, supply a direct ground to the fuel pump relays ECU/ECM input, it will be one of the two leads left over once you eliminate the black lead(s)...
Black is ground for injector relays coil.
There is a 12V constant, possibly yellow/white or white/black.
There is a 12V switched, [run and start] probably black/yellow or yellow/green.
There is a 2nd switched power, [hot in start] probably blue/white.
The injector relays output, [hot in run and start] most likely yellow/black.
All that is left is the fuel pump relays output and the ECU/ECM control input, use a jumper wire to supply a ground to each one, one at a time, [no you can not hurt anything if you supply the ground to the fuel pumps power output lead first, assuming you already know there is no 12V output] if, when you ground the ECU/ECM lead, the fuel pump turns on, you need to check the ECU/ECM or the wiring between it and the PGM-FI Main Relay.
In a pinch you can leave the ECU/ECM input to the PGM-FI Main Relay grounded so the engine will start and run. 94
Last edited by fcm; Jan 1, 2010 at 02:01 PM. Reason: typo
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