I was just wondering if it would be a bad idea to re tighten my crank pulley bolt with an impact?

 

if you do, use anti-seize.

 

How many lbf-ft of tq does your impact put out? The tq spec for the crankshaft pulley bolt is 180 lbf-ft.

 

im really not sure its an impact i use for work (construction)

 

Is the pulley wobbling or something?
If it's not broken, don't fix it.

 

There is no need to tighten the crank pulley bolt any more than 180 lbf-ft. So if you have a 400-500 lbf-ft impact there is no benefit to using it.

 

If it's a normal 1/2 impact, you won't have any problem. You don't need to keep running it in as long as you can, but just hand thread the bolt so you don't cross the threads and then hit it with the impact. We do this all day at work.

 

Just tightn' that baby up as tight as it will go. Then one day your daughter will be driving down the street and you get a call.... Dad ? The power steering doesn't work. What do I do?


I get to where she had pulled off the side of the road into a parking lot and the crank pully was still rolling down the street.


I recomend replacing the bolt everytime it is taken off and then put back on at 180/ft.lbs.


Cost me $2,500.00 to replace everything when it came lose. Camshaft also had frozen and broke all the timing and balancer belts. Still looking for a new head. I don't want to buy one from ebay but, it beats pulling one and getting it rebuilt locally.


It is a '94 single overhead camshaft F series and God only knows what the guy I bought it from had done to it before I bought it...


Use no locktight either, use only the best antisieze from permatex..


Needless to say my two other accords got new bolts from Honda within the week.....

 

how much was the pulley bolt?

 

The pulley bolt broke because it was too loose. Ive seen it more than once. Mostly by novices tightening by the bolt by hand. Its hard to accuratley torque the bolt down because the crankshaft turns while youre tightening it. This is from the mouths of Honda engineers. the best way to insure the bolt wont break is to tighten it with a quality 1/2 gun with adequate air pressure. Real Honda techs do it this way. Anyone that tightens a CS bolt by hand is asking for trouble.

 

Well wouldn't you still be running into the chance of turning the crank that way? I know it's an impact gun, but still. Some company makes a tool that allows you to hand crank (or remove) the bolt with ease. It's in the FAQ's sticky and is about $50 from what I remember. You would need that, a breaker bar, and a torque wrench to get it done. And with this method, the pulley will DEFINITELY not move. Look it up in the FAQ. It's cheaper than an air tool setup too haha

Oh and I'm not bashing or anything, but just because a certified technician does something one way, doesn't necessarily mean it's right. I've heard a LOT of bs come from the mouths of technicians...

 

2500.00 should have gotten you a new engine and transmission with about 30,000 miles on the clock installed!

 

H swap FTW!!

 

lol

In the service manual it shows how to properly torque the crankshaft pulley bolt by hand. You use a special tool to hold the pulley in place while you torque the bolt. Check out my timing belt write-up to see. You don't NEED air tools.

 

How about with a tq wrench and the 50mm hex crank pulley tool. Check it out, Honda Tool Number 07MAB-PY30100. It's what all the real Honda techs use that I know. An impact will work but not always trustworthy from the problems I've seen come from using them. The possibility of not being tight enough or being too tight is always there if you don't tq it correctly. That would be like using an impact wrench to tq down a rod bolt. Sure it works and I've seen mechanics do it. But that doesn't mean it's right. In the end it's up too you.

 

That's 3 votes for the crank pulley bolt tool. Go to the site and click "add to cart."

 

1/2" impact is nice for removal though. I definitely agree on proper torquing when reinstalling.

 

I got my crank pulley holder from Skyway Tools; I think it was about $75 a few years ago.

 

Im not really gaining anything by argueing with you guys. Go ahead and tighten it by hand. You will get an inaccurate procedure because the motor flexes in its mounts. A small crack will develop in the bolt (it may take a few years) And then the bolt WILL break. Ive seen it happen. Mostly by novices who refrain from common sense and stick to published procedures and dont take into consideration the variables that happen in the real world. I am a Honda Platinum level master technician and an ASE master technician with 20 plus years on Hondas. I do it this way and all the techs in our shop do it this way, the techs at the dealership across town do it the same as well. You decide.

 

so was honda just yanking everyones chain when they published the helm factory service manual?

 

No, they just didn't want to give away all of the Service Techs' secrets....

92civlude - if you use the tool properly, you will not apply any torque to the engine mounts. The engine will stay still. And, I've never, ever, heard of a bolt cracking from being torqued to spec.

 

The last time I spoke to a Honda tech, they told me aftermarket intakes would destroy my engine. Another technician told me my current DD had an exhaust leak when I had just replaced my entire exhaust with perfect piping. Oh and when they told me my entire axle and half shaft needed replacing because my car was making a clunking sound, come to find out that it was a loose splash guard. Then there's the stunning argument of why they think honda's NEED backpressure. The list goes on. And these are all ASE certified techs. Now I'm not saying you and your co-workers are the same kind of techs I've met. I may just have bad luck with finding a good one which is why I rarely go to them.

To become a certified technician, don't you have to go through your own published procedures? So it kind of defeats the argument you had for the novices you mentioned.

 

so first you say you cant torque the crankshaft pulley bolt by hand because the crank will spin, now you say you cant because the engine will flex in it's mounts leading to improper torquing? and how would any of that cause the bolt to crack?

sorry, but.... just my opinion though

I guess what I'm saying is that if you prefer using an impact to remove and install that bolt, thats fine. But don't spew crap like the above because if Honda engineers didn't feel it would work properly then they wouldn't have designed the pulley to be used with the special tool nor would they have designed the special tool.

 

go to kragens. they have the 50mm crank pulley tool for $22. i just bought mines yesterday and broke the crank bolts in like 3 mins after spraying the bolt with liquid wrench the day before. no need for impacts.

 

How in the world is anyone going to OVERtorque a 16mm fine thread bolt? Really? Even with professional airtools. That's nuts. You're in far, far more danger of not tightening it enough if you use a torque wrench and the Honda special tool.

And, the Honda special tool is VERY useful for breaking the bolts loose. Very often, there isn't an impact in the whole shop that's strong enough to break the bolts loose, so the special tool on a cheater bar and a nice, big fat breaker is what you need to get it off. I wonder why? Geez, I don't know, perhaps the motions and the heat the bolt is exposed to ends up putting it under so much more stress than an impact could ever put on it, it tightens up further.

Get over it. Hit it with your impact. Job done.