Car was running fine before I got gas ( Turkey Hill). About a half mile down the road, as soon as I got on the highway, it started to knock. At the time I wasn't sure it was a knock, I though maybe something was stuck under the car. But I noticed it would only do it under acceleration. By the time I got back in town, about 35-45 miles later it was worse, and when I went to stop at a light, the car stalled out. It wouldn't start and hasn't since. I was thinking bad gas, but I am also considering fuel pump failure. I did an oil change before I tried to start it again, oil was low, but was there. I was about 7k since my last oil change using synthetic. Acura manual states ( I believe) between 9k-12k miles between changes. I usually change it between 6k-9k miles. Filter as well. Anyone encounter this problem with their car? It is an '02 with 114k on it. Always use synthetiic oil and premium gas. I figured I could disconnect the fuel line and try turning the car on to see if it was functioning, but I don't want to further damage the engine if it is damaged already.

 

For one thing, that is a damn long time between oil changes regardless of what Acura/Honda says. They don't make the oil, and they can't control when the additives in the oil that protect your motor break down. Anyway, How are your spark plugs? If your motor was being starved of fuel the plugs will show it by being really white and ashy.

 

Any CEL's?

 

I have to check the plugs next semi-decent day we have here. It's been so damn cold lately. It does have a CEL, it was already on, it was for the secondary oxygen sensor. I will have to get it scanned again to see if it's showing any other codes since then.

 

Does the car turn over?

 

I don't think 6k miles is all that long for synthetic oil. I usually change it at about 6k, but due to school and work, I just hadn't had time yet. I have been driving my Civic lately anyways. But I would like to get it running so it's not sitting all winter. Hopefully we got some halfway descent days here soon. BTW, oil used was Mobil 1, full synthetic, 5w-30 with the Mobil 1 filter.

 

It seems like it wants to start. It just seems like it's not getting the fuel. You know the "rerrrr rerrrr rerrrr" noise. Then it just stalls out. What would be looking for if the engine was detonated. Or a cylinder. If it is the fuel pump, I plan on looking into swapping the engine into the Civic.

 

do you have kpro?

 

Nope. Nothing but an intake.

 

Bad gas, water, or diesel in fuel tank, drain tank

 

Man, I was thinking the same thing. I can't see how it's a coincidence that it was running fine the hour and a half trip from Jersey, then after I got gas, it starts to run like ****. There wasn't a loss in power, or anything else noticeable besides the "apparent" knock. But again, it could of just been the engine being starved for fuel. I've never siphoned gas before, how do I go about this. And also, what actions can I take about getting the gas station to pay for any damages, or is there any actions I can take?

 

If there is not a drain bolt (may have to remove a plastic cover) under the tank, you can unhook a supply line somewhere and jump 12V to the pump. If there is a drain and water is the problem, the water will be on the bottom and come out first. Don't know about specific action you can take, but you will not be the only person who got bad gas from that station that day

 

Alright. I know it's a couple of weeks later, but I finally scanned it. Codes that came up were P1166 and P1167. After scrolling down, words that came up were CATALYST, EVAP, O2 SENSOR, MISFIRE, FUEL, COMP, and O2 HTR. When I get back from work tomorrow morning I will have to look them up. Any ideas at what I'm looking at here?

 

I used the Actron PocketScan. Codes P1166 and P1167 are for the Primary H02S (sensor) Heater System Electrical. Would this cause my car to not start, doesn't seem right.

 

None of those codes would keep it from starting. The O2 heater failure is coincidental, and can be repaired by replacing the sensor.

 

I know when my Civic is low on oil the light comes on, I assume the same happens in the Rsx. I think I'm looking at replacing the fuel filter and pump.

 

the oil light comes on when the oil pressure is low, not necessarily the oil level. usually when the oil light comes on the motor is done for.

 

Well no light came on for the oil. So I guess that's good. I just wanted to make sure.

 

It turns out its the air fuel ratio sensor.

41


P1166


11-96


11-89


Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction

41


P1167


11-99


11-91


Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction



So now my question is, is this as simple as just replacing the sensor? Sorry for all the Q's. I'm a body man with only limited mechanical experience. lol
Also, after I replace the necessary parts, will I have to clear the code or will it clear itself once the ECU recognizes the problem is fixed?

 

Alright. I still haven't figured out what is wrong with this car. I tried to do a compression test but the damn bolts on the spark plug cover just kept turning. So that is on hold. I know there is a valve( of sorts) along the fuel line that I can run a pressure test on, but I'm not quite sure where that is located, to see if the fuel pump is the culprit. Would it be easier to d/c the fuel line and turn the key into the "ON" position and see if anything comes out? I also wanted to try turning the crank manually, but I've never done that before, so I'm looking for a little guidance in that method as well. Any helps appreciated. In the meantime, I'm going back to do tha bodywork on my Civic. Bodywork is so much easier than tech work!!! lol

 

1) to turn the crank manually, the easiest way is to just put the car in neutral and put a socket on the power steering nut. The belt will turn the crank pulley. Super easy. It will be easier to turn over if the plugs are out so it isn't making compression.

2) I think if you keep turning the nuts on the spark plug cover, they will come out. Two of the nuts are threaded onto studs, and it sounds like you are spinning the studs out. Just keep spinning and they will eventually come out. They aren't very long.

 

Yeah. I got one out, the others won't tighten or loosen. IDK, I'll keep at it tomorrow. I tried when I got the one stud out to work my way under the cover and put some force while I was turning an other bolt. I will have another set of hands tomorrow. So we'll see. I don't want to sound completely inept, but I'm a bodyman with very little mechanical experience except on older Civics/Accords on some general stuff (intakes, alternators,brakes,spark plugs,etc...)


It's the one on the very bottom? And above the alternator pulley is the idler pulley? What's the yellow on at the very top and the large on with the holes below the alternator pulley?

 

Well, I appreciate the help of anyone who chimed in. It really sent me in the right direction. I tried to turn the crank manually and nothing. So I d/c'ed the fuel line and drained it into a bottle. It was a fuel/water mixture. You could definitely see air bubbles in the bottle. So that's where I'm at now. The engine is ceased. I found an engine at a yard near me with 106k on it for $1900 and a 90 day warranty. Has anyone done this drop on their own at their house? Level of difficulty?

 

That's weak!! I'm sure you could figure out how to do the swap, especially if you are doing the exact same motor. You will want to pull the tranny and motor though just in case you were thinking of dropping just the motor. Motor swaps are more intimidating than difficult I would say. Are you mechanically inclined?

 

I went to school for auto body, so if I'm pointed in the right direction I can get the job done. Got all my ICAR points. But I am a bodyman not a technician, so I lack the experience of doing the mechanical work. I mean, if I can take it apart I can put it back together or replace it, lol. Everything is very compact in the engine bay, so it looks intimidating me a bit. Is it absolutely necessary to drop the tranny?