I'm not a complete n00b to Hondas, but this is my first swap. The car is a 92 Civic Si and the motor going into it is a B16A2.

My question is, since the motor is out of an OBDII car, what all will I need to change for it to go into my OBDI car? I already know I'll have to get an OBDI dizzy and injectors, but what else do I need to switch out?

Any help is appreciated.

 

ecu just get the od2 to od1 conversion

 

Idk what he's talking about but also the IAT sensor.

 

I believe he meant that the OP needs to get an OBD2B to OBD1 conversion harness and use an OBD1 ECU.

Not sure about him needing to change the IAT sensor but I do know he will also have to bypass the CKF sensor on the engine.

 

He has an OBD1 car, y would he need an OBD2 to OBD1 coversion harness?? Use ur stock engine harness and get the OBD1 dizzy, use ur stock injectors (they r 240cc), and use the stock OBD1 IAT sensor (U have to drill and tap the B16A2 intake manifold to use it tho but the mani is already cast for it). Done! Oh and get a chipped P28

 

what if i just got the B16A3 intake manifold and used it?

and the only injectors i have right now are in the z6 that is in the car right now, they won't work will they?

 

the z6 injectors should work just fine. You can just use the sensors off your old motor thats obd1. Just get a b series dizzy, injectors, and make sure the alt is obd1 or you have a plug for obd2 that you can rewire. The eaisest way would be to get a obd1 ecu.

 

hi can any body tell me if a EG with a 94 integra ls stock can pass smog?

 

wrong thread my friend^^^


But thanks for the help, the car is OBDI already and has the stock z6 in it. I'm piecing together the swap slowly so that it gets done right. the stock ecu is a p28 so that's all good.

I can use my sensors from the z6 though? if so that is wonderful news.

 

ecu is gonna need to be chipped for a b16 basemap, unless you happen to find a p30 (uber rare to come by). i think one of the plugs on the alternator is different also.

 

yeah i'm gonna get the p28 chipped for sure.

i've also heard that stock EG mounts work for B series. is this true?

 

yes they do becase in japan they come b series

 

ok cool

about the intake manifold though, should i just look for an obd1 intake mani to avoid the problem about the IAT sensor?

 

bump

 

If u don't want to drill and tap the IM for the IAT then u can find a IM off of an OBD1 B16 but it's really not hard to drill and tap the OBD2 IM.

 

As far as swaps go, BUY A COMPLETE B16 ENGINE HARNESS, regardless if the motor is obd2, changing the distibutor is not necessary if you have an obd2 harness and obd2 dizzy. the obd1 harness AND obd1 distributor will run the same, plug in the same, although you will have a few sensors lacking a plug. for an obd2 harness, you will need a Jumper harness *pictured below from rywire* that allows you to use a diffferent ecu than your harness accepts. if you need to piece together a harness, you can use an ls (b18b) harness and wire for vtec.



if you piece together a single cam d series harness ( i have done it befor) then you will run into multiple electrical problems. none of the plug ins will work so you will need a b16 harness any way (that you will have to chop up). im not saying that you cant do it or you can not get it to work, even if you get it to work, it mire than likely will not work reliably.

Now for the pros and coons of everything...

if you use a b16 harness, use a b16 ecu (which i believe you have), give you the proper power for the injectors, sensors, motor and vtec timing

if you use an ls (b18b) harness, you can wire for vtec or you can use a vtec controller (you can still use your b16 ecu, vtec just wont engage until you add the wiring)

for the obd2 harness you will need a jumper harness. if you procure an abd1 harness, you will not need it, your ecu will plug and play.

 

^^ I don't know what this guy is talking about but he is half right, the only differance in a sohc harness vs a dohc harness is the placement of the O2 sensor. The sohc is in the front and the dohc is in the back, so u have to extend the O2 wires on the sohc harmess to reach the back of the block. If u had a vtec sohc then u r ready for a vtec dohc, nothing extra needed for that much. Now as far as injectors go all d-series and b-series use 240cc injectors, the plug-in is different from the obd1 to obd2 but still the same size "cc" or lb/min. The other difference in OBD1 vs OBD2 is the dizzy of course and the IAT, the IAT on an OBD1 engine is in the IM which reads a higher temp then the OBD2 IAT which is in the intake tube it self. That is y u need to use the OBD1 IAT if ur using an OBD1 ecu. So since ur car is OBD1 and u had a z6 (SOHC VTEC) and ur staying OBD1 ecu, ur all set up all ready. It will b simpler to just get an OBD1 dizzy and change the IAT (everything else is plug-n-play). Like I said b4 tho, if ur not comfortable drilling and tapping the IAT of the B16 IM u have then go ahead and find a B16A3 out of a DOHC VTEC del sol and ur done. GL and may ur Vtec snap nasty..

 

WTF are you talking about? You do not need a B16 harness. If you need OBD2 injector, distributor and alternator plugs you can get them off a '96 - '98 D-series civic harness, theres no point in hacking up a perfectly good B16 harness (which are hard to find, and usually pricey) when you can do the same thing to a D-series harness thats just about worthless. Theres several ways you can do this swap, some are better than others, i'll list them below:

Method 1
Use a '96 - '97 Del Sol vtec engine harness or one from a '97 - '99 Integra Type R. (you can use an '00 - '01 Harness, but you will need to run 1 additional wire for the tach signal) You will need to run 1 wire from the engine harness back to the ECU for the knock sensor (if using an ECU that looks for it), thats it.

Method 2
Use a '96 - '01 Integra RS/LS/GS harness (note that you will need to run 1 wire for the tach signal on '00 - '01 harnesses) You will need to run vtec wiring from the engine to the ECU for vtec and knock sensor

Method 3
Use a '96 - '01 Integra GS-R harness, IIRC the GS-R harness has an additional 2 wire plug at the passenger's side shock tower for the purge solenoid thats different from other harnesses that may need to be pined differently. Again you will need to run the wire for the knock sensor and you will need to run the tach signal wire if using an '00 - '01 harness

Method 4
Use your original harness, which in your case is from an Si, you will need to extend the wires for the IAT and IACV as well as the O2 sensor. As far as your Alternator, distributor and injectors are concerned you have 3 options:
-option 1: buy OBD1 B-series injectors, alternator and distributor
-option 2: Reuse your old D-series injectors (which have exactly the same flowrate as B-series injectors), swap the CYP/CKP/TDC sensors from your D-series distributor into the OBD2 B-series housing (done this before and it works perfectly fine, the sensors themselves are identical, its only the plug(s) thats different, swap the voltage regulator from your D-series alternator into the B-series alternator (this only works if they are both the same style alternator (either nippon-denso or mitsubishi)
-option 3 cut and splice plugs (stay away from this one if you can)

You still need to wire for a vtec controller (which are a cheap hack, for vtec to function properly you really need a vtec ECU)

The only way you would ever need to use an adapter harness would be if using a '96 - '00 civic harness (which doesn't work) or a '96 - '97/'96 - '01 Integra harness, which doesn't really work either.

 

alright just swaped my 93 si with 00 ls, and goin boost, (running by next month) should i buy i full turbo kit??? or piece one together?? Any input would be appreciated!!!

 

Good question.... wrong place to post it tho, make ur own thread.

Now as for the OP, IDK y ppl keep acting like u have an OBD2 engine with the harness on it as if it matters. Just put the harness off of the z6 onto the B16 and do like I said b4. Easy, simple, & done