BLOX Full Rebuild Opinions ????
I'm in the process of rebuilding my GSR, and was wondering what everyones opinion would be on using Blox products for my rebuild. this is what I plan on using:
JDM ITR Pistons .25 over/ stock rods
3 Angle Valve Job
BLOX Intake Manifold - Port Matched
BLOX Throttle Body/68mm & Thermal Spacer
BLOX Tuner Series Dual Valve Springs
BLOX Retainers
BLOX Tuner Series Type C cams
BLOX High Compression Valves
Hondata s300
R/C 330cc Injectors
What kinda numbers can I expect for HP/TQ ??And will this be a reliable daily driver for me ?? Also if theres anything that you guys know that will help out with this rebuild, it is highly welcomed. Whether it be alternate parts, or something else that can be added to ensure it run reliable and strong. I'm not really a track guy, but would definitely like to make a pass once its done, just to see what it will do. thanks for your help !!!!
JDM ITR Pistons .25 over/ stock rods
3 Angle Valve Job
BLOX Intake Manifold - Port Matched
BLOX Throttle Body/68mm & Thermal Spacer
BLOX Tuner Series Dual Valve Springs
BLOX Retainers
BLOX Tuner Series Type C cams
BLOX High Compression Valves
Hondata s300
R/C 330cc Injectors
What kinda numbers can I expect for HP/TQ ??And will this be a reliable daily driver for me ?? Also if theres anything that you guys know that will help out with this rebuild, it is highly welcomed. Whether it be alternate parts, or something else that can be added to ensure it run reliable and strong. I'm not really a track guy, but would definitely like to make a pass once its done, just to see what it will do. thanks for your help !!!!
Personal I love Blox, great prices and great performance.
Myself I think you might me running to high of compression for pump gas with thoughs mods.
Make sure you have someone that knows what there talking about first before you do anything.
Myself I think you might me running to high of compression for pump gas with thoughs mods.
Make sure you have someone that knows what there talking about first before you do anything.
I believe you can exceed 200 whp with those mods. Mar778c (or something like that) is running a similar setup and making something like 205. You'll make more power with a PerformerX IM and I wouldn't skimp on valves (I'd get Supertech instead) but that's just me.
The ITR pistons with a GSR head only give u a 11.5:1 c/r. Last I read, that was fine for pump gas. Am I wrong ???
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I'm in the process of rebuilding my GSR, and was wondering what everyones opinion would be on using Blox products for my rebuild. this is what I plan on using:
JDM ITR Pistons .25 over/ stock rods
3 Angle Valve Job
BLOX Intake Manifold - Port Matched
BLOX Throttle Body/68mm & Thermal Spacer
BLOX Tuner Series Dual Valve Springs
BLOX Retainers
BLOX Tuner Series Type C cams
BLOX High Compression Valves
Hondata s300
R/C 330cc Injectors
What kinda numbers can I expect for HP/TQ ??And will this be a reliable daily driver for me ?? Also if theres anything that you guys know that will help out with this rebuild, it is highly welcomed. Whether it be alternate parts, or something else that can be added to ensure it run reliable and strong. I'm not really a track guy, but would definitely like to make a pass once its done, just to see what it will do. thanks for your help !!!!
JDM ITR Pistons .25 over/ stock rods
3 Angle Valve Job
BLOX Intake Manifold - Port Matched
BLOX Throttle Body/68mm & Thermal Spacer
BLOX Tuner Series Dual Valve Springs
BLOX Retainers
BLOX Tuner Series Type C cams
BLOX High Compression Valves
Hondata s300
R/C 330cc Injectors
What kinda numbers can I expect for HP/TQ ??And will this be a reliable daily driver for me ?? Also if theres anything that you guys know that will help out with this rebuild, it is highly welcomed. Whether it be alternate parts, or something else that can be added to ensure it run reliable and strong. I'm not really a track guy, but would definitely like to make a pass once its done, just to see what it will do. thanks for your help !!!!
But I have a few suggestions.
The I/M you have listed is copy of Skunk2 orginal. The intake runners are at the incorrect angle for the head. Get a Skunk2 Pro or Edelbrock Performer X.
The SuperTech valve train is much better. If you can find it for less than BLOX get it.
The cam is a good choice copy of the JUN3, I would look into the Skunk2 Pro1 cam also.
Parts that missing
cam gears
a good header (SMSP, Hytech, Bisi, Skunk2)
2.5" exhaust
3" intake piping, with Velocity Stack
I'm running RC 370 injectors right now. 310 or 370 should work. I didn't know the made 330's.
Zealautoworks has your compression at about 11.6:1 with/out the valves. No need. That will be fine for the street.
http://zealautowerks.com/bseries.html
Here is the build GagnarTheUnruly was speaking about.
The set-up:
Blox C's
JG Cam Gears
Custom Header designed by me built by synapse
3" Kteller SS exhaust
Port matched AEBS manifold
68 mm Professional Products TB
B18C1 short block with 81.5 mm RS Machine Pistons
B16 stock port head
supertech springs
2002 rsx type s retainers
Hastings piston rings
Honda main bearings
acl rod bearings
2000 B16A oil and water pumps
345 prelude injectors
Built by Tonio and Me
Neptuned by D-rob.
The numbers are 219 whp and 148 ft-lbs.

This is the same engine as posted on pg 15 of this thread with new cams, injectors, and OBD-1 ecu (Neptune EMS)
Blox C's
JG Cam Gears
Custom Header designed by me built by synapse
3" Kteller SS exhaust
Port matched AEBS manifold
68 mm Professional Products TB
B18C1 short block with 81.5 mm RS Machine Pistons
B16 stock port head
supertech springs
2002 rsx type s retainers
Hastings piston rings
Honda main bearings
acl rod bearings
2000 B16A oil and water pumps
345 prelude injectors
Built by Tonio and Me
Neptuned by D-rob.
The numbers are 219 whp and 148 ft-lbs.

This is the same engine as posted on pg 15 of this thread with new cams, injectors, and OBD-1 ecu (Neptune EMS)
I have never been a fan of BLOX, copy and do no reseach NOT cool.
But I have a few suggestions.
The I/M you have listed is copy of Skunk2 orginal. The intake runners are at the incorrect angle for the head. Get a Skunk2 Pro or Edelbrock Performer X.
The SuperTech valve train is much better. If you can find it for less than BLOX get it.
The cam is a good choice copy of the JUN3, I would look into the Skunk2 Pro1 cam also.
Parts that missing
cam gears
a good header (SMSP, Hytech, Bisi, Skunk2)
2.5" exhaust
3" intake piping, with Velocity Stack
I'm running RC 370 injectors right now. 310 or 370 should work. I didn't know the made 330's.
Zealautoworks has your compression at about 11.6:1 with/out the valves. No need. That will be fine for the street.
http://zealautowerks.com/bseries.html
Here is the build GagnarTheUnruly was speaking about.
But I have a few suggestions.
The I/M you have listed is copy of Skunk2 orginal. The intake runners are at the incorrect angle for the head. Get a Skunk2 Pro or Edelbrock Performer X.
The SuperTech valve train is much better. If you can find it for less than BLOX get it.
The cam is a good choice copy of the JUN3, I would look into the Skunk2 Pro1 cam also.
Parts that missing
cam gears
a good header (SMSP, Hytech, Bisi, Skunk2)
2.5" exhaust
3" intake piping, with Velocity Stack
I'm running RC 370 injectors right now. 310 or 370 should work. I didn't know the made 330's.
Zealautoworks has your compression at about 11.6:1 with/out the valves. No need. That will be fine for the street.
http://zealautowerks.com/bseries.html
Here is the build GagnarTheUnruly was speaking about.
http://www.superstreetonline.com/plu...ning/b18c.html
I think you're off to a good start with the build. Some people really don't like brands like Blox because they don't do their own R&D -- they steal other people's designs. It doesn't bother me personally for a few reasons. One is that SK2 could easily sell their parts cheaper if they wanted. Another is that I don't have a large disposeable income and my car isn't a high spending priority, so I wouldn't buy certain parts new if they weren't made by knockoff brands, so I'm not really stealing sales from larger companies. You should do what you want but also be aware that brands like Blox are stealing designs.
Blox makes some things really well -- anything made out of metal seems to be of high quality, but they cut corners on some parts (gaskets and bushings, e.g.). Most of their parts are made in the same factories as the higher end stuff, anyways. Their cams seem to be good, but the rest of the valve train is so important that I'd go with Supertech rather than Blox. You might not even spend more money.
Also, on a build like this, cutting corners will come back to haunt you. Spending a little more on intake and exhaust parts will free up lots of power you wouldn't ordinarily see. For example, that DC header will hold you back. A better header on a milder build will make the same performance as a DC header on a more extreme build. To some extent you've got to pay to play. Here's what I'd do for a similar budget build:
Blox C cams
Supertech valves, springs, retainers
ITR pistons
The injectors you mentioned or RDX inj. with a custom rail
Edelbrock Performer X IM
Magnaflow 300 spun cell cat w/ piping to fit your exhaust
I'd personally keep the WS for quietness but a larger 2.5+" exhaust will add power for you
Kiddracing header or Hytech replica (both better than DC)
68 mm TB (don't know much about these yet)
Used 5- or 6-bolt cam gears (SK2 or the like)
OBD1 p28 ECU
Moates Demon tuned on Crome or Ectune
Use the money you save on the tuning system to get a better IM and possibly a better header as well (you can always sell the DC for a little $$). I'm just getting started on this stuff myself but that's what I'd do based on what I've learned.
Blox makes some things really well -- anything made out of metal seems to be of high quality, but they cut corners on some parts (gaskets and bushings, e.g.). Most of their parts are made in the same factories as the higher end stuff, anyways. Their cams seem to be good, but the rest of the valve train is so important that I'd go with Supertech rather than Blox. You might not even spend more money.
Also, on a build like this, cutting corners will come back to haunt you. Spending a little more on intake and exhaust parts will free up lots of power you wouldn't ordinarily see. For example, that DC header will hold you back. A better header on a milder build will make the same performance as a DC header on a more extreme build. To some extent you've got to pay to play. Here's what I'd do for a similar budget build:
Blox C cams
Supertech valves, springs, retainers
ITR pistons
The injectors you mentioned or RDX inj. with a custom rail
Edelbrock Performer X IM
Magnaflow 300 spun cell cat w/ piping to fit your exhaust
I'd personally keep the WS for quietness but a larger 2.5+" exhaust will add power for you
Kiddracing header or Hytech replica (both better than DC)
68 mm TB (don't know much about these yet)
Used 5- or 6-bolt cam gears (SK2 or the like)
OBD1 p28 ECU
Moates Demon tuned on Crome or Ectune
Use the money you save on the tuning system to get a better IM and possibly a better header as well (you can always sell the DC for a little $$). I'm just getting started on this stuff myself but that's what I'd do based on what I've learned.
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